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Tutorial XBOX One Mic Mod

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EDIT: Never mind, answered my own question.
 
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Xandrel

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EDIT: Never mind, answered my own question.
Good to see you were able to figure out your issue. I was working on a reply for you and figured it may still be worth showing to some who may have had a similar issue as you.

If you happen to remove one of the solder traces from the board, doing this mod may seem near impossible and you may feel you just ruined your module. Not quite the case. With a little bit of effort, you can get everything back up and running.

The below picture shows where the traces are being led to. This picture makes things seem like they are easier to access than it is, but it is definitely doable. Take an exacto knife (or similar) and proceed to scrape the solder mask from the trace that you need access to. What this will do is expose the bare copper (or whatever is being used) and allow you to solder to it. Between Ground, Mic, HPR, and HPL, HPL is going to be the hardest to repair. There are little electronic parts in that area, and if you do not have a steady hand when farting around in there, you can make things worse.



I didn't follow the HPR trace all the way, but you can see that it continues a little further. Hope this helps some people. If you google 'trace repair' you will find the answers you seek.
 
Cheez

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Xandrel

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The best way to really ensure you have the correct pins is to insert your 2.5mm plug into the jack you are wishing to use. Have the one end of the wire stripped so you have access to the individual wires (should be 3 or 4 of them). 1 is the mic, 1 is the speaker, and 1 (or 2) are ground. Use a continuity tester by touching one probe on the wire and the other to a corresponding pin on the jack you want to use. When you have continuity you know which pin you have.
headset_1.jpg

Let me know if that helps.
 
Cheez

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The best way to really ensure you have the correct pins is to insert your 2.5mm plug into the jack you are wishing to use. Have the one end of the wire stripped so you have access to the individual wires (should be 3 or 4 of them). 1 is the mic, 1 is the speaker, and 1 (or 2) are ground. Use a continuity tester by touching one probe on the wire and the other to a corresponding pin on the jack you want to use. When you have continuity you know which pin you have.
headset_1.jpg

Let me know if that helps.

Used a tester from work and found out which pin was which, but the female jack I was using was too big to fit into the casing and I was too lazy to try making it fit. Ended up just using an old turtle beach cable I had laying around. Turned out pretty nice.

bbOHCvr.jpg
 
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LawlessBaron

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Just bought a soldering iron im not going to prep to do this thanks for this
 
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Used a tester from work and found out which pin was which, but the female jack I was using was too big to fit into the casing and I was too lazy to try making it fit. Ended up just using an old turtle beach cable I had laying around. Turned out pretty nice.

bbOHCvr.jpg

Ended up getting the same pcb's are you. Don't have a way to check the pin out. What worked for you?
 
Xandrel

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This is definitely the hardest part of the mod. Everything else is pretty self explanatory except for this in most cases because it can vary depending on what jack you use. Here is how I would do it.

This tool will make your lives easy (this one I got on sale for $20 and its great). Continuity testing is what we want to do hear. My unit has has an audible beep when it detects continuity.

The next thing to do is to ensure you know which pin is which. From previous posts, we know which part of the male tip is the mic, the headset, and ground. The way these things work is that the opposite side is exactly that, the opposite.

After you know what part of the tip does what, insert it into the jack and test again to figure out which pin does what.

On the jack I am using in the picture, the top left is the mic pin, the top right pin is the speaker, and the bottom left is the ground. The other 3, who cares. Does not matter.

Please note that these are 4 pole connectors. You only need 3 pole connectors for the mod. I hope this helps anyone. Biggest thing here is to get a multimeter (for the continuity test).
 
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received my headset port with the soldered in chat wire today and it works perfectly! super service from Xandrel Xandrel would definitely reccomend guys!
 
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Seems easy enough just need my soldering iron to arrive
 
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Sorry. Is the bluetooth adapter being powered from the actual mic jack or are you getting the 3.3v that the 360 controller supplied from somewhere else? Would love to see what you did.

i deleted the jack altogether... power comes from the xbox one adaptor which is plugged into the controller.
 
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Oh k I have the x12's and this tutorial does not work..
I unsheathed the x12 talkback cable and there are four wires.
One is a copper wrapped around a red sheathed wire.
One is a copper and blue around a blue sheathed wire.
One is a copper and red around a green and clear sheathed wire.
And the last is a copper and green around a green sheathed wire..

I tried every combo I could think of and nothing was working..
Anyone else run into this?
 
Xandrel

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I assure you this tutorial works provided you take all the necessary steps. Did you use the multimeter as I showed above? If you do, it works.

I have used a cable from an x12 to do the same thing and it works. Sold it to DerHammer. He just posted a few days ago that it works.

I encourage you to PM me if you are having issues. I do know that not every cable uses the same color system inside it, even between sets of X12s.
 
Xandrel

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If this is not allowed, please remove the post. I I have been getting a lot of requests for these to be made in my inbox and its getting tough to keep track of how many I need to make. I have had an ebay posting up for some time and would love to point you guys there if you are interested.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/161185363381?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649

I am always willing to help you guys out with issues you are having making your own as well. That is the reason I posted the tutorial in the first place. I have some nicer, more in depth, pictures coming to make the modification much easier for you guys to do yourself.

Any specifics you would like for me to concentrate on that would make it easier for you guys?
 
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E fooly

E fooly

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why couldn't you guys just wait until the company that makes the turtle beach headsets make one that works with the 360 turtle beach headsets
 
Xandrel

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why couldn't you guys just wait until the company that makes the turtle beach headsets make one that works with the 360 turtle beach headsets
Um...because we couldn't? Why not make use of what you got now instead of waiting. Plus, the majority of us don't want to pay more to use what we have already.
 
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Also did this today, have to admit, I suck at soldering. :wink: But hey, it works! :biggrin:
 
NZXT

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Dude that's awesome! I envy people with the capabilities to do stuff like this.
 
Xandrel

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Dude that's awesome! I envy people with the capabilities to do stuff like this.

Thanks, but I assure you its not that difficult. Worst that can happen is you ruin your chat adapter and go buy another for 30 bucks. Not saying 30 bucks is pocket change, but its a nice project to do without the fear of wrecking the bank.
 
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This was the result of mine since I had nothing to cut the outer casing with, its just the board inside a ton of electrical tape.
la4YlZu.jpg
 
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