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Solved xbox not powering on after rgh E and F accidential switch

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ztinoezz

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hi guys,

i have some questions about a rgh that went dead because i made a mistake in the soldering.
let me 1st say that i did about 10 succesfull rgh installs in the past, i am dyslexic, so i figure that in my head i made the right connections... but i didnt...

i was trying to install my 1st x360run chip as i ordered 3 for testing them.
well it went wrong for the 1st time...
there was a cr3 lite insatlled on it ( wich i also did ) , but boot times where a absolutely horrible even after days if switching the switches and trying different cable lenghts i the fastest i was getting was 7 to 17 cyles before booting.
after some searching i came across the very affordable x360run so i decided to try those.
they arrived on monday , so i started.
wiring was almost the same, i just didnt need the orange wire (3b15) so i desoldered from one chip and soldered to the other.
well all went to hell from there...
since the E and F connections are both 3.3v connections the chip started glitching but it didnt boot, after the 10th cycle came the red light, powered the console of and from there on the console failed to start.
later a came to the conclution that i switched the E and F connections...
all i have now is a bleep, the console wont turn on , niether does the psu ( already tested with another psu )
i cannot read or write to the nand and usb does not give any power.
alot of forums said it was the 3b15 connection wich was burned out, since i removed the orange wire from the pad i checked it and the 33r resistor gave me a clean 34ohm , i folowed the connection and to the next points and all is fine. ( exposed a little bit wire on the board to measure with a multimeter.
so i think all is fine there.
tried searching with mister google, a personal friend of mine and found a picture of the voltage points on the motherboard for j2c3 connetions.


now when you look at this you will see the green points, they should be 0.06v but i get 1.2v out of these, so my guess is that there is something wrong with that, and now i am out of ideas...
anyne know wich points i schould check next.
i have been searching fot the last to days and found nothing, pointing me to a correct tread is also much apreciated.

thank you

edit. its a trinity board 10.83a
 
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JoinTheResistance

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Did you try removing the chip and flashing the stock nand back?
 
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GModz Tuts

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Did you try removing the chip and flashing the stock nand back?
This. Try flashing stock nand and see if it boots. May be a corrupted nand issue, I have had it happen before after switching to a different chip.
 
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HuskerHeaven

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Did you try removing the chip and flashing the stock nand back?
He can't read/write the nand right now.
hi guys,

i have some questions about a rgh that went dead because i made a mistake in the soldering.
let me 1st say that i did about 10 succesfull rgh installs in the past, i am dyslexic, so i figure that in my head i made the right connections... but i didnt...

i was trying to install my 1st x360run chip as i ordered 3 for testing them.
well it went wrong for the 1st time...
there was a cr3 lite insatlled on it ( wich i also did ) , but boot times where a absolutely horrible even after days if switching the switches and trying different cable lenghts i the fastest i was getting was 7 to 17 cyles before booting.
after some searching i came across the very affordable x360run so i decided to try those.
they arrived on monday , so i started.
wiring was almost the same, i just didnt need the orange wire (3b15) so i desoldered from one chip and soldered to the other.
well all went to hell from there...
since the E and F connections are both 3.3v connections the chip started glitching but it didnt boot, after the 10th cycle came the red light, powered the console of and from there on the console failed to start.
later a came to the conclution that i switched the E and F connections...
all i have now is a bleep, the console wont turn on , niether does the psu ( already tested with another psu )
i cannot read or write to the nand and usb does not give any power.
alot of forums said it was the 3b15 connection wich was burned out, since i removed the orange wire from the pad i checked it and the 33r resistor gave me a clean 34ohm , i folowed the connection and to the next points and all is fine. ( exposed a little bit wire on the board to measure with a multimeter.
so i think all is fine there.
tried searching with mister google, a personal friend of mine and found a picture of the voltage points on the motherboard for j2c3 connetions.


now when you look at this you will see the green points, they should be 0.06v but i get 1.2v out of these, so my guess is that there is something wrong with that, and now i am out of ideas...
anyne know wich points i schould check next.
i have been searching fot the last to days and found nothing, pointing me to a correct tread is also much apreciated.

thank you

edit. its a trinity board 10.83a
Post some pics of the area. Switching them shouldn't cause any issues other then not booting. Once you switch them back, should boot right up.
 
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ztinoezz

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1st off all thanx for wanting to help me resolve this.

here are som pics.
off course i already tried to remove it, still the console will not power on.
i also get no power from the usb.









the r3b15 gives me 34ohm , i read that this is normal.
the u5a1 gives me only 2.60v
the u5b1 gives me 1.36v

so i tried a second xbox trinity, at 1st i tried it with a cr3 lite that i had lying around and knew was working, i booted and got xell.
( this is why you see a second bleu wire in front of the last pic, its loos and connected to the back at t3n2 instead of in front at r3b15, easier to solder thgere and needed for the cr3lite)
after that i took a new x360run chip and put that in place... tries to glitch and BAM... also a dead board ...

so i had some bad chips maybe ?
i'm lucky those are my xboxes...
 
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HuskerHeaven

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1st off all thanx for wanting to help me resolve this.

here are som pics.
off course i already tried to remove it, still the console will not power on.
i also get no power from the usb.









the r3b15 gives me 34ohm , i read that this is normal.
the u5a1 gives me only 2.60v
the u5b1 gives me 1.36v

so i tried a second xbox trinity, at 1st i tried it with a cr3 lite that i had lying around and knew was working, i booted and got xell.
( this is why you see a second bleu wire in front of the last pic, its loos and connected to the back at t3n2 instead of in front at r3b15, easier to solder thgere and needed for the cr3lite)
after that i took a new x360run chip and put that in place... tries to glitch and BAM... also a dead board ...

so i had some bad chips maybe ?
i'm lucky those are my xboxes...
Your green E wire isn't even on the right point. What diagram are you using. Take off the x360run entirely and try to write retail and boot.
 
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ztinoezz

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i resoldered just before the pick, yeah its starting to get on my nerves, sorry bout that, i used the diagram form the x360run.
you got to take my word for it that it was different in the previous work.
as said i was able to boot with the cr3 lite, also on the second one.
even when it was removed i couldnt write to the nand, nor was i able to get any life out of it past a dead beep.

edit, so i tried again and its a no go for writing to the nand or booting.



so now i found this pic of how the standby voltages should be.
i have no 12v and no 3.3v.
i do have 5v



the aria i marked with yellow there are 4 points , 2 of them are brown points that should give 3.3v, there is only one point giving 3.3v
 
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ztinoezz

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i now found a short on the board but have no idea where it comes from.
the u5b1 gave me a short as i applied a little more pressure on the 1.8v leg with the multimeter.

please corect me if i'm wrong, but...
the way i see it, there is a 5v line coming from the psu wich can be tested at the incoming connections on the mainboard as seen in the pic above from the bottom of the mainboard.
this 5v connection goes to the u5a1 and the u5b1 regulators on the top board , right ?
it then gets split up in 3.3v and 1.8v by these regulators ?

untill the 5v reaches the regulators everything is fine and it reads a nice 5v from psu to the left of the 2 bottom pins from the regulators.
but it seemed the the 1.8v line was in short with the groundpin right next to it, the middle of the 3 legs is ground...
after some thinking i got some tweezers and some flux and succesfully pulled the u5b1 regulator nice and clean from the mobo itself, but i pulled on leg from the regulator itself so thats non reusable.
even with the regulator removed the 2 pads are making a short... so now i'm out of ideas...
 
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RedEyedJesus

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i now found a short on the board but have no idea where it comes from.
the u5b1 gave me a short as i applied a little more pressure on the 1.8v leg with the multimeter.

please corect me if i'm wrong, but...
the way i see it, there is a 5v line coming from the psu wich can be tested at the incoming connections on the mainboard as seen in the pic above from the bottom of the mainboard.
this 5v connection goes to the u5a1 and the u5b1 regulators on the top board , right ?
it then gets split up in 3.3v and 1.8v by these regulators ?

untill the 5v reaches the regulators everything is fine and it reads a nice 5v from psu to the left of the 2 bottom pins from the regulators.
but it seemed the the 1.8v line was in short with the groundpin right next to it, the middle of the 3 legs is ground...
after some thinking i got some tweezers and some flux and succesfully pulled the u5b1 regulator nice and clean from the mobo itself, but i pulled on leg from the regulator itself so thats non reusable.
even with the regulator removed the 2 pads are making a short... so now i'm out of ideas...

3v3 this 3v3 that lol an 11 year old can do this your going too much into depth. Your board isn't booting due to a short or a broken trace/pad on your stbyclk
 
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ztinoezz

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i wasnt really here to dicuss what age you need to be to look for a short...
what's simple for some is harder for others, needles to say i have no experience in electrical repairs and this is why i turn to these places.
thank you again for pointing that out to me, its not like the don't do the same on other forums.
for some reason i was able to do alot of these in the past without ever making mistakes, i miss tha jtags though, sold hundreds of them.

anyway, besides that, thanks for the help as any help is appreciated no matter what and please don't be offended with my above point.

so, i start from the r3b15 and work my way back then ?
 
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RedEyedJesus

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i wasnt really here to dicuss what age you need to be to look for a short...
what's simple for some is harder for others, needles to say i have no experience in electrical repairs and this is why i turn to these places.
thank you again for pointing that out to me, its not like the don't do the same on other forums.
for some reason i was able to do alot of these in the past without ever making mistakes, i miss tha jtags though, sold hundreds of them.

anyway, besides that, thanks for the help as any help is appreciated no matter what and please don't be offended with my above point.

so, i start from the r3b15 and work my way back then ?

Just check that its not bridged on the two pads @ r3b15 buddy :smile:
 
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ztinoezz

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well its not... the one beside it is a ground, it make no connection with the r3b15
 
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ztinoezz

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bump

still have no idea where to go next as the r3b15 disapears in the mobo, and i can't seem to locate it further.
 
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Did you try saying please? Mobos have feelings too. All i can suggest is take the chip out put it in correctly and then seeing if it will boot if not. Well. Get a hammer and swing away.
 
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ztinoezz

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Once upon a time you could turn to forums for help...
Those where the better days where at the end one would say a big thanx for all the help that was provided.
These days you get lauched at and have to beg for help...

As said before, i'm very thankfull for any help provided.
Can we Just keep it a clean tread please ?
 
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ztinoezz

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thanks for the reply,*

the partnr on the the regulators are both ADLRTS on the xbox, thats all it says on both the 1.8v and the 3.3v.
people have had succes with taking them from slim lite-on dvd drives and installing those to the trinity mobon but i really don't want to remove them from the dvd drive.

 
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thanks for the reply,*

the partnr on the the regulators are both ADLRTS on the xbox, thats all it says on both the 1.8v and the 3.3v.
people have had succes with taking them from slim lite-on dvd drives and installing those to the trinity mobon but i really don't want to remove them from the dvd drive.

"ADLRTS" doesn't look like a part number. Doesn't it it say something else on them?
 
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I think that this is the part that you need, "SP6669AEK-L", not sure, though.
Btw, what voltage do you get on these regulators?
 
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