The Squirt Dna board can be used on all glitch-able xbox 360 motherboards (not Winchester I know). However, in this guide i will focus on Trinitys. This is the first guide I've ever made so I realize its not perfect! If you decide you would like to try this and something is not clear let me know and I'll do my best to explain it better. Spoiler: Where I get chips https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ori...32333621384.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.N835RK I realize the demand for dual-nand rgh's has decreased exponentially. But if your like me and do this more as a hobby than a business you will enjoy this nonetheless. Some of the pictures below were not taken by me and I take no credit for them. They came from various sites off the web like the late: teamx360.uk Please do not try this if you recently completed your first working rgh! get more practice with the whole rgh process first by doing dozens and dozens of consoles. note: your dash kernels need to be as close to each other as possible! The first time i did one of these i ran into problems because when i rgh'd the console originally, I didn't bother to update it first.so the nanddump.bin was from an old dash kernel. There are plenty of guides on this site covering (s)rgh like this one by JoinTheResistance https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/s-rgh-tutorial-start-to-finish-slim-only-16mb.1595235/. So this guide will assume you already have a working rgh using an ace v3 and 15432's timing files. We will be flashing the xboxs nand back to stock later so you can leave the rgh image on it for now. NOTE: You must use the srgh pack 2 for this mod. The original release pack with 300, 200, 150mhz timings will not work. Before starting, go ahead and find a timing file from the srgh2 pack that gives you acceptable boot times and have it already on the ace. (The ones in the pro folder.) I start with the files in the Pro/Trinity/ best_timings/ pack_1_best folder. the file 51_1 usually ends up being the best for my wire routing /lengths but your mileage may vary. I use 30awg kynar wrapping wire for most of the points on these. but use whatever your comfortable with. Start by pre-tining the points on the squirt. you will only need one vcc and one ground and can use either one. we will also be using the CE_B pad so tin it as well. http://i.imgur.com/JwBpH74.jpg pick a good spot to place your squirt dual nand addon and attach it using double sided tape. http://i.imgur.com/ZZK96IBm.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/bXoZDHXb.jpg now pre-tin these points on the bottom of the board. as always use plenty of flux. http://i.imgur.com/9N8Ay6X.png http://i.imgur.com/F9ZFNFfm.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/A7zn1Cfm.jpg carefully begin soldering your wires one at a time according to the picture above. (vcc on the squirt goes to the 3.3v point on the cap in the picture above). You can use the ground shown above or any other ground point. "ground is ground". I use the exposed copper around the edges of the board. At this point the only wire left to attach to the squirt is CE/B . This wire will run from the squirt to the Ace itself. The motherboard CE point with the arrow pointed to it also runs up top to the Ace. Run them through a hole in the board and we will continue at the ace. http://i.imgur.com/kx9drF3l.jpg As you can see above the wires will run to the top of each resistor on the ace. the CE_B pad from the squirt runs to the squirt CE point above (marked in green) and the motherboard CE point runs to the m.b. CE point(marked in yellow). This leaves the SMC point which goes to the j2c3 header, the sync button which goes to pin 13 of the r/f socket (bottom of board) , and the debug led point which also goes to the r/f socket. Don't worry about the debug yet we will add the wiring and led later, after we know the console is booting and switching nands properly. http://i.imgur.com/AVsiKDPm.jpg?2 http://i.imgur.com/1Mg4ZpYm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6eWn1Pom.jpg?2 note: Yes you will have both the smc reset from the ace and your nand programmers wires both going to the same point while reading/writing the nand. No big deal just be sure both are making good connections. Now go ahead and plug in the rf board ,power brick, and your video cables to the xbox. If you have installed everything properly (and are using the pro timing files i mentioned above) when you hit the sync button on the r/f module you will notice the debug light will flash on the ace. One flash indicates the squirt nand, two flashes indicates the xbox nand. After verifying the nands are switching properly go ahead and switch to squirt nand (one flash) and write your working rgh image to it (updflash.bin) using your nand reader of choice (I use jrpv2). I usually go ahead and attempt boot the console from both nands now(both of which contain hacked images at this point). Dont freak out yet if one of the nands gives you a rdod!! Now, switch the nand to the xbox nand (two flashes) and write your original nand dump.bin to it. If you didnt get a rdod before you will now! To remedy this you will need to simply cut a trace that leads from the xbox nand chip. These traces are very tiny and very close together so best to measure twice and cut once! you can use a fine tipped set of tweezers, or pick like i do or even a hobby knife just be careful you don't cut the traces on either side cause that would be a b**** to repair imho. http://i.imgur.com/cnk1m6Rm.png The best way to determine if the trace has been completely severed is by plugging the xbox back in and testing for rdod. once its cut your console will boot on both nands. Once you get it booting properly there are a couple of optional things you can do. 1.) you can remake your rgh image using a banned kv. (you will be glad you did this latter!) 2.) you can flash your drive so that you can play burned games when on the stock nand. (gives you an excuse to dust off and use that old kamikaze drill!) 3.) wire the Aces debug led to the rol so you can actually see which nand your on when the console is back together. And as a bonus also see how many glitch cycles your console takes to boot. (rather than squinting your eyes in the dark looking a faint green light.) I wont cover all three of these optional steps (cause you most likely know how to do them already) but i will cover the debug rol mod. its pretty simple. Remember the rol debug point from earlier on top of the ace? http://i.imgur.com/kx9drF3b.jpg run a wire from that resistor to the bottom of the r/f connector once again. except this time we will use the unused pin 4 rather than pin 13 from earlier. http://i.imgur.com/ED96wOQl.jpg?2 now on your r/f module run a wire from pin 4 to the Positive side(anode) of a new led. as far as the negative side(cathode) you can either scratch through the green coating of the board, exposing the bare copper(ground) and then attach the cathode of a new led to that, or you can simply solder the cathode of a new led to the cathode of an existing rol led. Sorry i dont have any good pics of this at the moment. http://i.imgur.com/r3OjT0dm.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/40ZOzPym.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/08MfNPTm.jpg?1 if you look closely on the last pic you can see where the copper has been exposed. just put some solder on there and angle the led up away from the pcb. some pics of finished dual nands ive done using this method. http://i.imgur.com/MUxEJVTm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/OjBOc9em.jpg http://i.imgur.com/iitmdw1m.jpg http://i.imgur.com/55uwZcqm.jpg now that you are finished go play with the pussee you've been neglecting this whole time! http://i.imgur.com/2lTJMbvl.jpg?1 http://i.imgur.com/23LAN2u.jpg?1 added direct links for now until they get pics working again.