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Solved RGH Trinity Solid Red Light On CR And Flashing Xbox Light HELP

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SworN VorTex

SworN VorTex

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Okay I have been trying to RGH2 my trinity Xbox 360 with Coolrunner Rev C and Jr Programmer for the past day and it will not boot no matter what I do. I just want to clarify that I have re soldered every wire at least 5 times over and I think did everything right in Jrunner.

The Coolrunner is just staying SOLID red and the xbox power button is FLASHING green like the eject button non stop. No signal on the monitors and not booting into xell. The fan turns on and is running as normal also. I have tried everything, I have looked up everybody who has a similar issue and tried everything I could to come up with a solution. That being said I dont know what to do with the jumper part because I think my Rev C is a knockoff. The only time the green debug light on the Coolrunner turns on is if I am programming it. Everything works in Jrunner. I have:

- Read the NAND
- Programmed the CR
- Created and wrote the ECC
- All the options are right [Trinity Dash 17511 Glitch2]

That being said I could have missed something or made a fatal mistake please enlighten me and feel free to humiliate me! All hope is lost rn.

I know you guys are also going to want to see my soldering but please note I have resoldered and resoldered even if it was good I fixed it and i'm not that good at soldering but I honestly don't see the problem here guys I don't think its the soldering. Then again I could be wrong idk.


WKQbEG0.jpg

835vnvI.jpg

y7y97Z3.jpg

4uwSm1Q.jpg


Thanks to anyone that helps its greatly appreciated!
 
Newsk

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soldering looks fine. What timing you using? only point that you cant tell from those pics is your B or clk point. you can try the alternative clk underneath. for the most part nobody uses rev c on trinitys anymore because there are much better options such as srgh using acev3's or project muffin and so on that boot fast and you dont have to wrap around xclamps etc. btw Did you use the entire cpu rst cable and wrap it around the xclamp?
qtVWWXV.jpg
 
SworN VorTex

SworN VorTex

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Im using the standard trinity timing with it but I have tried some other ones and they haven't worked. I really wish I went with a different chip for this but I just tried it because I had the stuff from a previous project (Which also failed). That being said yes I have rapped the cpu rst around the X clamp and I snipped a tiny bit off following other advice but it wasnt a lot so should't change much. Ill try the alternative B now thanks for that ill let you know what happens
 
SworN VorTex

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Okay I soldered to the alt point and well. Worse. Nothing is happening now. Standby ower is going through the Mobo as it lights up the coolrunner but the xbox will not power on at all now.
 
Newsk

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thats odd. Can u take a pic of the topside clk point after u removed your wire ? It's real easy to damage that point as always you want to make sure stock nand still boots before moving forward.


technically you could switch that rev c to muffin install by changing just a couple things.

first remove E and F
switch E to db2g3 point that the cr4 uses (pic above)
DfWXkdk.jpg

remove the jp zero ohm jumper on your rev c
remove the c8 cap aswell.

then program muffin 7_1 timing file. I can get you the muffin files if you need them via pm.
lastly make sure you tick(ed) cr4 when you create ecc and when you create nand.

muffin was created using rev D (with built in clk crystal) or matrix v3 (same) but i have used rev c using xbox clk signal before.
 
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Just1n

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Your Xbox flashes green like that when there is no DVD drive connected. So that’s normal, as long as the drive isn’t connected of course lol.

As far as the cool runner not glitching, I would recheck the wire positions to make sure they are going to the right points, no solder bridges.

Were you able to boot Xell to retrieve your CPU key or is that where you are now?
 
SworN VorTex

SworN VorTex

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Okay its gotten worse ever since I used the alt point on the back the console didnt power on right. Now I can no longer write the NAND, read the NAND or get any info from the board. Jr programmer is fully working. wth is going on
 
J

Just1n

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Also, take a glance at your power brick. Ensure the light isn’t red. Should be orange when standby and green when on.
 
SworN VorTex

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I will admit the JR programmer solder points are a bit bad but they worked fine and I haven't had to touch them once.

New pics in Spoiler.

8TaVpUq.jpg

FKWY3Cb.jpg

stxgZjr.jpg

1nYGczG.jpg

5Ksn1H7.jpg
 
Power brick is orange currently
 
SworN VorTex

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Okay I redid the red black and the gnd yellow

Still no luck in Jrunner nothing is working
 
Just realised I forgot to show you the removed CLK::
dEj7REX.jpg
 
SworN VorTex

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To be honest I think im going to call it on this one. 3rd time lucky for the next one. hopefully you dont see me back here
 
rynax

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Before you tried the alternative point, theres no debug led but fans running means your POST signal has probelm.

After you tried the alternative point its not turnning on and nand cant be read right, it is 100% the CLK line is broken now , either R3B15 resistor is blown or the trace near it is damaged. It is repairable easy.
 
You can use multimeter to verify your CLK and POST
 
By the look of the solder joints, you dont have a good enough soldering iron to do this project, and flux?
 
Also if you have coolrunner you shll USE CR4 MUFFIN method alot easy to do, not affected by wire length or routing much
 
SworN VorTex

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How would I go about repairing the resistor? Ill try to use more solder and flux i just didn't want to bridge two points.
 
Newsk

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First clean the area with alcohol . Then measure the resistance from the pad you soldered to across the resistor . See if u get a reading. If u do compare against the other resistors next to it.
 
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