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Tutorial RGH 1.2 Start to finish tutorial + how to get a CR4 like experience (Phats only)

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BluesMan67

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yeah as might be obvious fro the pics I am not used to soldering so I actually did not have any flux, I'll buy some ant try to re-solder all the wired and see if that fixes it. Thanks for the help.
By the why what is the purpose of the oscillator on the matrix board I bought if I still need the Jasper's CLK signal?
It has something to do with the timing attack time on the 360's CPU.Have always found the Matrix v3 chips brilliant to use on Jasper and Falcon boards.
 
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caster89

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I redid the soldering with the flux, and i Got much better soldering points. I attached the CLK to the hana point on the board but still no success. The led flashes real fast all the time (before it was about 3 flashes every 2 seconds) but no luck.
 
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truemaster

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remove 0ohm resistor from matrix glicher v3 chip. the v3 has onboard oscilator that is design for corona xboxes that do not have hana
 
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caster89

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Hi. Thanks for the tip. I removed the 0ohm resistor and am starting to try some of the timings. The led now flashes twice every few seconds, but no luck with the files I've tried so far (I started with 18 and 21 as they seem the most common but will go through all of them). Just a quick question, somewhere I read I had to remove the GND every time I loaded a new xsvf file. Is that the case?
 
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truemaster

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no no need to remove gnd. just keep your main power down while programming the chip. also if your solder joints are good maybe a 100nf capacitor can help. my jasper needs capacitor, without it no boot
 
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BluesMan67

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Hi. Thanks for the tip. I removed the 0ohm resistor and am starting to try some of the timings. The led now flashes twice every few seconds, but no luck with the files I've tried so far (I started with 18 and 21 as they seem the most common but will go through all of them). Just a quick question, somewhere I read I had to remove the GND every time I loaded a new xsvf file. Is that the case?
Where ever you read that must have been smoking some serious s**t lol.You do not need to remove/desolder the GND wire from the chip,every time you program a timing file to the chip.So who ever wrote that for people to follow,is one dumb idiot.
 
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caster89

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no no need to remove gnd. just keep your main power down while programming the chip. also if your solder joints are good maybe a 100nf capacitor can help. my jasper needs capacitor, without it no boot
My solder joints aren't that good but if it needs a 100nf capacitor then I'll give it a go (I'm guessing in place of the 0 ohm I remove?)
 
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truemaster

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the cap goes one leg to gnd and one leg to pll on chip side. the capacitor type is a ceramic one. byt before that make sure about your wire routing is very importand
 
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caster89

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the cap goes one leg to gnd and one leg to pll on chip side. the capacitor type is a ceramic one. byt before that make sure about your wire routing is very importand
Ok... I don't have any capacitors at the moment, so I'll try like this for the moment while I wait for them to ship
 
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@JoinTheResistance Hello. I am going to rgh1.2 my jasper phat, there is just two things I am concerned about. Will a 360 ohm resistor work? Also is there a way to find the perfect timing file for a coolrunner rev c? Also I have the timing files here: https://docviewer.yandex.ru/view/0/...1OTQ0OCwieXUiOiI2MzIwNTU0MzcxNTk4NTMzNzUyIn0=. How can I check the length or timing? I am using a matrix SPI to program it and I don't have any headers so I want to get the glitch right on the 2-3rd try. Sorry if I missed anything in your tutorials, I am only 12 :/
 
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caster89

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the cap goes one leg to gnd and one leg to pll on chip side. the capacitor type is a ceramic one. byt before that make sure about your wire routing is very importand
I finally got around to buying the cap and soldering it. I still haven't tried all the are you mad files but the standard ones don't work. The blue led flashes but I never get a signal on the TV. Could it be I ruined the chip while working on it, or the Xbox?
 
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truemaster

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reflash stock nanddump and desolder the 3.3v wire that goes to glitch chip. if it doent boot then yes, something is wrong
 
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caster89

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reflash stock nanddump and desolder the 3.3v wire that goes to glitch chip. if it doent boot then yes, something is wrong
Yeap, I desoldered the 3.3V and three red led turn on (I think they are the Q1 Q3 and Q4) I probably burnt something while soldering i guess
 
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truemaster

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oh thats not good. but did you flash back the stock nanddump? also a photo will be usefull its either lifted pad on pll or the clk point on hana
 
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caster89

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BluesMan67

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Yeah I flashed back to the original nanddump.bin and gave no errors.
Are these the pics you meant. I swithed to solid wires as they are a bit easier to solder, even though I only had one color
https://app.photobucket.com/u/caste...5576cd/p/b0202974-d13d-4070-8b8d-7cb2938549a4
https://app.photobucket.com/u/caste...5576cd/p/4872b586-097e-4872-910b-c1ab53997580
https://app.photobucket.com/u/caste...5576cd/p/e21d05ef-07f7-46e8-b07a-2d3d3bf7b0a5
If you press the "Controller Sync" button in and keep it it pressed in,then press the DVD drive eject button,this will give you from 1 to 4 red lights.
You have to keep the controller sync button pressed in,then press the dvd eject button 4 times.
Count how many red lights are lit up on the RF board on each press of the eject button.
 
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caster89

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If you press the "Controller Sync" button in and keep it it pressed in,then press the DVD drive eject button,this will give you from 1 to 4 red lights.
You have to keep the controller sync button pressed in,then press the dvd eject button 4 times.
Count how many red lights are lit up on the RF board on each press of the eject button.
On the first two clicks of eject all four led are lot and flash rapidly, while.on click three and four only the top two leds
 
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BluesMan67

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0022 secondary error :frown: had a feeling it was going to be that.I've had a few 360's that have ended up in the trash because of this.
It's a loose or bridged solder joint either under the CPU or GPU or (H)ANA chip.Pretty hard to fix unless you get the board "Re-Balled" :frown:
 
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truemaster

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your solder joints are fine. the cpu-rst cable is posisioned in a very wrong way. NEVER route it under coils that is why you get those errors. try riute in near the pll cable and check without capacitor after fix the rst routing
 
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caster89

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0022 secondary error :frown: had a feeling it was going to be that.I've had a few 360's that have ended up in the trash because of this.
It's a loose or bridged solder joint either under the CPU or GPU or (H)ANA chip.Pretty hard to fix unless you get the board "Re-Balled" :frown:
? Ah well I figured it was a risk when I started this. Thanks for helping. I'll see if I get a chance to pick one up cheap and maybe try again
 
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