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Solved RGH 1.2 specifics

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rowdyalmonds

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Hi all,

I'm in the midst of a phat 360 mod and I was hoping someone could help out with specific questions as they come up. I've got a 16 mb Jasper and I'm using a JR programmer and x360 ace v3 chip to take a crack at RGH 1.2. I know there are other chips people gravitate towards for this motherboard, but I opted for the ace in the hopes of achieving a mod which will support dynamic timing. This is my first try at anything like this, so my questions might be kinda basic. I've been primarily using jointheresistance's guide for RGH 1.2.

So far, I've got the nand dumped and matched and I've written the ECC. I've also written a timing file to the ace chip via the JR programmer and I'm now looking for solder points to go from the chip to the motherboard. I have a 22k resistor I intend to splice in between the chip and the PLL, and it looks like there's a diode or a resistor I need to remove from the chip (I'm presuming it's just soldered on and will come off with my iron).

I haven't been able to find pics anywhere of this mod performed with this motherboard and components combination, but it looks like I'm going to need to take the motherboard out of it's trey (I have not yet). Do I need to remove the heat sink in order to access my solder points? And if I do, do I need some kind of special paste to reinstall it to get it to work properly?

Thanks for any insights folks!
 
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BluesMan67

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That diode you need to remove from the Ace v3 chip,comes off no problem.Just set your soldering iron to around 200,apply some solder flux to both ends of the diode,add a very small amount of solder to both ends of the diode and use a set of long nose tweezers.I heat up 1 side of the diode first and just gently lift that end of the diode with tweezers (just enough so it comes away free from the solder pad on the chip,then i do the same for the other side of the diode.Job done.(you only need to remove that diode when fitting the Ace v3 chips in the phat model 360.If fitting inside a Slim,you leave that diode alone).
Solder the 22k resistor to the "F" solder pad on the Ace v3 chip itself.
I would remove your CPU heatsink and x-clamp so you have better access to the small/tiny solder points where your wires are going to be soldered to.So make sure you clean off the old thermal paste from the top of the CPU chip and the bottom of the heatsink.Once your wires are soldered to the correct points/pads and secured down on the board (a dab of hot glue or tape will be fine to secure them) then apply fresh new thermal paste on the cpu chip and re-attach your heatsink and x-clamp.DO NOT,I REPEAT,DO NOT go overboard and use way to much thermal paste when applying,just a small amount and spread so it just covers the die itself.To much thermal paste is just as damaging as not enough to the chip.
Just follow this RGH tuturial and you can not go wrong .-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/rgh-1-2-start-to-finish-tutorial-how-to-get-a-cr4-like-experience-phats-only.1349194/
 
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danik2b

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Just buy a Matrix v1 without oscilator off ebay, they're about $10-$15. do a CR4 Muffin install, it's the most failsafe for beginners, it's what I did the first time and had no issues :smile: Timing files don't make much of a difference despite what people say, use a good recommendation and roll with it. You shouldn't need to remove the heatsink to access the points, but god knows how long the paste has been on there for(years if it's your first time opening the console). I'd definitely pull the heatsink off and use some cotton tips and rubbing alcohol to apply pressure and remove the old paste from both the CPU, GPU and heatsink. You will need more paste once you've removed the old stuff, I use artic silver 5, but any cpu paste should be fine.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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Thanks for the tips-- opted not to take the heat sink off as I was able to get wires on all the points with it on and I don't have any thermal paste. I had some trouble with the post point on the underside and I'm hoping I didn't cause any heat damage to the motherboard in the process-- just gonna have to keep my fingers crossed for now.

Thanks for the chip rec, danik, but I've already got the Ace, I'm gonna stick it out with this one for now. I got the diode off the chip, but now I'm realizing I'll need to reprogram it, since it was on there the first time and the guide says you need to have it connected to the console with power plugged in (but console off) to properly program it. As such, I presume the board needs to be back in the tray for this in order to make proper ground connections? Also where do people put these chips? It doesn't look like there's a good spot on the motherboard so I was just gonna hot glue it to the outside of of the av port shell or something 🤷‍♂️
 
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danik2b

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Thanks for the tips-- opted not to take the heat sink off as I was able to get wires on all the points with it on and I don't have any thermal paste. I had some trouble with the post point on the underside and I'm hoping I didn't cause any heat damage to the motherboard in the process-- just gonna have to keep my fingers crossed for now.

Thanks for the chip rec, danik, but I've already got the Ace, I'm gonna stick it out with this one for now. I got the diode off the chip, but now I'm realizing I'll need to reprogram it, since it was on there the first time and the guide says you need to have it connected to the console with power plugged in (but console off) to properly program it. As such, I presume the board needs to be back in the tray for this in order to make proper ground connections? Also where do people put these chips? It doesn't look like there's a good spot on the motherboard so I was just gonna hot glue it to the outside of of the av port shell or something 🤷‍♂️
You can program the chip outside the console, probably easier to do that before you wire it up. Most people put their chips on the back ports if it's a phat and on the board itself if it's a slim(you'll see an open area that you won't use).

I've got an ace360 chip that I tried to do a corona v2 with, wasn't a big fan of the wiring and the dimensions. Goodluck :smile:
 
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BluesMan67

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Ace v3 chips are by far the best glitch chip for Trinity Slim boards ( i get instant boot/first pulse cycle) on my Trinity 360) i did a Falcon RGh for my son (again using an Ace v3 chip) his glitches in around 6-8 seconds/during second pulse cycle) but for Jasper boards i've always used either a Matrix v3 or a clone Rev C Xecuter chip.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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Ok-- So, I've completed install of the chip, I plug the console in (Red led turns on on the chip), I turn the console on, and the front power led flashes green continuously... but no boot.

Any thoughts? I've written dash 17511 to the ecc and I'm in the process of trying different timing files programmed to the chip. How long should I wait for a boot? Maybe I should try another dash?

Thanks
 
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BluesMan67

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Ok-- So, I've completed install of the chip, I plug the console in (Red led turns on on the chip), I turn the console on, and the front power led flashes green continuously... but no boot.

Any thoughts? I've written dash 17511 to the ecc and I'm in the process of trying different timing files programmed to the chip. How long should I wait for a boot? Maybe I should try another dash?

Thanks
If you haven't re-connected your DVD drive back to the 360 board,then your front RF light will blink.This is normal,so don't panic (once you have your DVD drive re-connected to the 360 board,that front RF light will be static.
What dashboard version was your 360 on before your built and wrote your custom nand image ? it doesn't matter if it's on later dash than 17511,you still create and flash your custom nand image of your current dashboard version.
Did you get "Xell" to boot to grab your Jaspers CPU key BEFORE you created your custom nand image ?
 
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rowdyalmonds

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Hm, so the console will not boot without the dvd drive? I haven’t connected it since I didn’t see it connected in any tutorials.

I may have made a pretty boneheaded mistake in regards to the dash version. I know that it’s later than 17511, I read somewhere that if it was later than that you just use 17511, and I don’t have the specific dash written down anywhere...

I haven’t been able to boot xell to get the CPU key, that’s what I’m trying to do now. I’ve written the ECC but not yet created an XeBuild image since I don’t have the key
 
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BluesMan67

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Hm, so the console will not boot without the dvd drive? I haven’t connected it since I didn’t see it connected in any tutorials.

I may have made a pretty boneheaded mistake in regards to the dash version. I know that it’s later than 17511, I read somewhere that if it was later than that you just use 17511, and I don’t have the specific dash written down anywhere...

I haven’t been able to boot xell to get the CPU key, that’s what I’m trying to do now. I’ve written the ECC but not yet created an XeBuild image since I don’t have the key
The console WILL boot without connecting the DVD drive.
Have you got the full collection of the Jasper timing files.If you have then flash/program the Jasper Dynamic file to the Ace chip (you must have the power cord plugged in to your Jasper motherboard while you program the Ace chip but DO NOT power on the Jasper board,just leave the power cord plugged fully in.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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Thanks. I have a multitude of timing files I've got from scouring the internet, though I don't know if I have the full collection? Do I need these for the dyanmic file to work? I thought the dynamic file was somehow standalone?

I think I'm closest to success with the RGH 1.2 folder linked in jointheresistance's tutorial (here). When I try these, the console clearly goes through boot cycles and I see a green LED flash next to the red one on the ace chip during each attempt (the flash is relatively weak, and short lived).

I've tried some older timing files I found which are evidently for "ace noclk" (I've not wired the clk point as I'm under the impression that's not necessary). When I try these, both the red and green lights come on on the ace chip and stay on. I am flashing all my timing files with the power cord in, console off, j runner set to xsvf.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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P.S. Does anyone know what LEDs I should be seeing light up on the ace chip?
 
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rowdyalmonds

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ok. So, I gather that the lights on the ace chip should be: red on while the console is plugged in, green flashes at each glitch attempt, and solid green upon success (based on a few videos). Funny thing is, the status of my green light at plugged in changes depending on the timing file I flash to the chip.

I'm circling back to wiring. Checking continuity across my solder connections. I've got a 22k resistor on the PLL and I'm finding that the PLL grounds on the motherboard side. Is this normal? Does the PLL normally establish a ground connection? or do I have a short?

Appreciating all the support I've received thus far. If anyone knows how to switch this conversation back to unsolved that would be great.
 
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Newsk

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in order for someone to help you would need to post pictures of all of your connections and wire routes. Otherwise all anyone can do is guess. BTW: Acev3 is definitely not a good option for 1.2 on phats. matrix or rev c is the way to go.
 
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BluesMan67

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I have to agree here with Newsk.Use a Matrix chip or a clone rev "C" or rev "D" xecuter chip for Jasper boards and Falcon boards.
I RGH'd a Falcon board a few year ago using a clone rev "C" xecuter chip and the boot times where amazing (4-5 seconds,every single time)
I did RGH my sons Falcon 360 with the Ace v3 chip and boot times are really good.
I've also just finished RGH'ing a Xenon board (RGH1.2 method) using the Ace v3 chip,boot times are pretty good as well but the Ace v3 works best for the slim Trinity boards i think.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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I used the wire routes from here. I'm look for someone who can tell me whether or not the PLL is supposed to ground.

BTW: Acev3 is definitely not a good option for 1.2 on phats. matrix or rev c is the way to go
Yeah I hear that. What makes them better?
Just boot time? Or is there a legitimate compatibility issue? I'm not all that concerned with shaving a couple seconds off boot
 
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Newsk

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less consistent. 15432 stated NOT to use them , he then released the files anyway (for those that wanted to see for themselves i guess).
 
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BluesMan67

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I used the wire routes from here. I'm look for someone who can tell me whether or not the PLL is supposed to ground.



Yeah I hear that. What makes them better?
Just boot time? Or is there a legitimate compatibility issue? I'm not all that concerned with shaving a couple seconds off boot
I managed to kill 3 fat 360's (2 jaspers and 1 falcon) in the past when using an Ace v3 to RGH them :frown: not sure what happened or what went wrong but all 3 ended up with 3 red lights and 0022 secondary error code with them.
Was nothing to do with poor soldering or making mistakes in the RGH process,as i have modded countless game consoles over the years (PS1's,PS2's,original first gen Xbox's and the 360's)
So lesson learned to ones self not to use Ace chips in either Jasper or Falcon 360's.
 
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rowdyalmonds

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Alright, sold. You've convinced me. just ordered a matrix v1 without oscillator. Won't be in until next week but I'll see if I can flash and boot retail in the meantime, I haven't seen any RROD in my attempts, hopefully the motherboard is still fine
 
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BluesMan67

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I used the wire routes from here. I'm look for someone who can tell me whether or not the PLL is supposed to ground.



Yeah I hear that. What makes them better?
Just boot time? Or is there a legitimate compatibility issue? I'm not all that concerned with shaving a couple seconds off boot
What i would do if i was you (just to make sure that the Ace chip hasn't killed your Jaspers Southbridge chip or it's CPU) is reflash your original nand dump image back to the Jaspers nand.Then desolder the following wires (5v,1.8v and the GND wires from the Ace chip) unplug the power lead for 30 seconds,then replug both the power lead and the HDMI lead back in (please make sure you have your case fans plugged in of course,white plastic heat shroud back in,your dvd drive connected to the Jasper board and your front "RF" power board plugged back in) then power on your console.
If it boots straight too dashboard,the Jasper board is fine and i would start your RGH again but with a different glitch chip (save the Ace v3 if you get hold of a slim Trinity 360)
If your Jasper boots to 3 red lights,then chances are,the Ace chip has damaged either the Southbridge chip or the CPU chip but fingers crossed,it should boot into the dashboard.
That's my best advise to you,buddy
 
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