Hello! Welcome to my tutorial showing how to Flash EVERY Xbox 360 DVD Drive! Myself, and Everyone on this site, is not responsible for you. This entire guide was written by me (No0b3rT). There is ALWAYS a chance to be banned for flashing. If you are banned, or your console does not work after this tutorial, it is not mine or anyone on this sites fault. ********************************* After the 13146 Dashboard Update, a lot of drives have new Firmware. LiteOn 74850c, 83850c v1 and 2, 93450c are now 0251c. BenQ 62430c and 64930c are now 04421c. So on and so forth. ********************************* This Guide WILL be updated with every update including - Hardware Changes, Firmware Updates, Etc.. So if you just happened to stumble on this page, and you're not quite sure what flashing a Xbox 360 Drive means I'll tell ya! Flashing a Xbox 360 is the Process of putting Modified Firmware onto your DVD Drive. In return, this allows you to play Back Up games. You can also burn Xbox 1 (Original) Games. So before you get into flashing your drive, there are a few things I need to Point out before we get into the tutorial. Everyone on Se7ensins is responsible for themselves. If you flash your drive, and start burning games that you DO NOT own, Myself, nor anyone else is responsible if you are to get in trouble. I am also not responsible for you breaking your drive/Xbox 360. This is a beginner friendly tutorial going over things in COMPLETE detail. So if you messup... I don't really know what to say. But if you do have any questions, all of my contact info is on the bottom of this tutorial. __________________________________________________________Q: Is this illegal? A: No. Modifying anything you own personally is not illegal. But piracy is. I DO NOT condone piracy. If you get in to trouble, I am not responsible.. __________________________________________________________Q: Can I power my Drive with my Xbox 360? A: Technically speaking, Yes. Do I recommend it? No. __________________________________________________________Q: What do you need to Burn Xbox 360 Back Ups? A: You need DVD DL (Dual Layered) disks. I recommend Verbatim, but if you can't afford them then get Memorex or any other brand that is cheaper. You're also going to need the ISO of your game. You're going to need to have ABGX360 to patch the games to make sure they're Xbox LIVE Safe. Lastly you're going to need an IHAS LiteOn Burner that is also flashed with BurnerMax Firmware. You can get them off of Amazon or eBay or anywhere electronic. It'll cost about $20 - $40 Depending on which model you get. I recommend the 124b. __________________________________________________________Q: How do you burn the Games after you have everything? A: I will link this to my Completely detailed tutorial when I make it and post it. __________________________________________________________Q: Can you burn Xbox Original Games, like Halo 2? A: Yes. You just have to convert the game to be played on LT+ Firmware. __________________________________________________________ Q: Can you Do this running Mac OS X? A: Yes! All you need is to either setup a Windows Partition in Boot Camp, or purchase VMWare Fusion or Parallels desktop. __________________________________________________________ Will add more when I get more questions This Tutorial will Show how to Flash the Following Drives: Phat Xbox 360: LiteOn - 0251c (74850C, 83850C(v1), 83850C(v2) & 93450C) BenQ - 04421C (All BenQs) Samsung - MS25, MS28 Hitachi - 32, 36, 40, 46, 47, 58, 59, 78, 79 Slim Xbox 360: LiteOn - 9504/0272, 0225, 0401, 1071 So, obviously before you get right into flashing your drive, you're going to need a few things. First and Foremost, you're going to need all the Files/Programs/Drivers in order to have a clean flash. Now.. me being as nice as I am to literally everyone, I went out of my way to download all of that for you. So, if you read the top, I said that this Guide will ALWAYS be updated with the latest and greatest. So if a new firmware comes out, or a new product like the X360USB Pro v2 comes out, this will be updated. Below, as you can see, there is a Download Version Checker. It will say what is in the download, and what version it is. So you can go to, for example, JungleFlasher's website and make sure that it's the correct version. __________________________________________________________ Download is: Updated to v6 Updated Jungle Flasher V0.1.96 beta (323) Current Version of JungleFlasher: V0.1.96 beta (323) Current Version of BurnerMax PayLoad Tool: V0.15 Phat LiteOn: --------------------------------------LT+ 3.0 DG-16D2S Phat BenQ: ---------------------------------------LT+ 3.0 VAD6038 Phat Samsung: -----------------------------------LT+ 2.01 TS-H943 Phat Hitachi: --------------------------------------LT+ 2.0 32-59 Phat Hitachi: --------------------------------------LT+ 3.0 78+79 Slim LiteOn: --------------------------------------LTU2 DG-16D4S Slim LiteOn: --------------------------------------LTU2 DG-16D5S Slim Hitachi --------------------------------------LTU2 DL10N [Click here to view the link] Now that you have the file, you're going to extract it and it'll make a folder called "X360ISO v6 No0b3rT". Inside that folder, you'll have a folder called CK3 Drivers, CK3i Drivers, Drivers for X360USB Pro, JungleFlasher, and Slim Files. The CK3 Drivers are for the CK3 Pro/Lite. Then the rest are self explanatory. __________________________________________________________ Now this is everything you need that is Hardware related: __________________________________________________________Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v2(~$60.00)(~£40.00) This is the Newly released X360USB Pro v2. This is quite different from the Original Version. This new version is a CK3i, and X360USB all in one! So all you would need is this in order to Power and Connect your Drive via SATA. This is also a lot cheaper than buying everything separate. This is definitively what I recommend for flashing. If you want/have to buy a X360USB Pro v2: Click Here to Purchase for US Click Here to Purchase for UK __________________________________________________________Molex Power Brick (~$15.00)(~£12.00) Now, sadly, the CK3i/Mini is not powered by USB like the X360USB Pro. They are both run by Molex Power. So this is a Wall input power supply for Molex adapters. If you need to buy the Molex Power Supply: Click Here for Everywhere __________________________________________________________VIA 6421 SATA PCI Card (~$16.00)(~£11.00) This is a 6421 SATA PCI Card. This is the other option instead of the X360USB Pro. It's cheaper, and can only be used in Tower PCs. I would insist that you get the X360USB Pro, as it is all USB. It may be more expensive, but it works so much better and you don't have to open up your tower. THIS WILL NOT WORK IF YOU'RE FLASHING A SLIM THIS ONLY WORKS FOR PHAT DRIVES If you want/have to buy a 6421 SATA Card: Click Here to Purchase __________________________________________________________ Okay! So now that you have everything you need in order to flash, we're going to setup everything so you can flash . Now I know, I know, you just want to flash. But I promise, after this, you'll learn. First thing first, you're going to want to find out what drive you have. It's pretty easy. For the Phat (Old) Xbox 360s, take off the faceplate, and look into the little opening under the disk tray. Then look for the color wires. This Picture should help: Now if you read the top, you'll already know that all drives passed the 13146 Dashboard update have all been updated. So no matter what BenQ, LiteOn, Samsung, or Hitachi you have, the firmware is now all the same. __________________________________________________________ But that ^ Up there was all for that Phat Xboxs. If you have a Slim... I have kinda bad news. The only real way to find out what drive you have in a Slim is to open it. If you don't know how to then me being nice still, found an amazing written tutorial with HD Pictures that you can find below. __________________________________________________________ Okay, so the last thing to do before you flash a Xbox 360, is to install Drivers for the Products. So I'm going to go through each product one by one showing how to install the drivers. ________________________________________________________________________________ Team-Xecuter Mini/Lite If you have a CK3 Mini, or a CK3 Lite, there are no drivers. ________________________________________________________________________________ Team-Xecuter CK3 Pro If you have a CK3 Pro, download the file from above, and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT. Inside you will see CK3 Pro Drivers. Go into there and double click the setup file. If you're on Windows Vista or Seven just make sure you run it as administrator. When the setup is complete, connect the CK3 Pro via USB and it will automatically install the drivers for your device. If it doesn't restart the computer and try again. ________________________________________________________________________________ Team-Xecuter CK3i If you have a CK3i, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT. Inside you should see CK3i Drivers. Connect your CK3i via USB and it will ask to install. Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder. After you choose that, make it go to the CK3i Folder inside of the folder you extracted. If all done correctly, your device will install. ________________________________________________________________________________ Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v1 If you have a X360USB Pro v1, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT. Inside you should see X360USB Pro v1 Drivers. Connect your device via USB and a message will come up asking you to install drivers. Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder. After you chose that, make it go to the X360USB Pro v1 Drivers folder. If all is done correctly, your device will install and show up in JungleFlasher. ________________________________________________________________________________ Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v2 If you have a X360USB Pro v2, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT. Inside you should see X360USB Pro v2 Drivers. Connect your device via USB and a message will come up asking you to install drivers. Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder. After you chose that, make it go to the X360USB Pro v2 Drivers folder. If all is done correctly, your device will install and show up in JungleFlasher. ________________________________________________________________________________ 6421 SATA PCI Card If you're using a SATA PCI Card, power off your PC (obviously), and take the side panel off. Insert the PCI Card into the computer. Put the side panel back on. Turn back on your computer. When the computer starts, it'll say there is new hardware discovered. Now usually, almost every PCI Card comes with a CD for the drivers. In this case if it did, put the CD into your PC. When the CD is in your computer, it will either do nothing, or ask you to run a setup. If it asks to run a setup, run it. When the setup is done, go back to the window and hit install automatically. If it didn't do anything, then go to the setup new hardware window and hit install from a specific location and choose the CD that you just inserted. Then it will install it automatically. Now your PCI card should be running, and will be detected in JungleFlasher. ________________________________________________________________________________ Spoiler Disassemble Time: 5 Minutes Difficulty: Easy Tools Required: Xecuter Unlock KitV2 (Can be purchased from all Xecuter Resellers) (If you wish to remove the motherboard to do an RROD repair then you will also need a Xecuter Xbox 360 RROD Repair Kit Pro (Torx 8 & Torx 10 Screwdriver included) and also follow Part 2 of this tutorial With two simple tools you are able to disassemble the Xbox 360 case, removing the components from the system without any damage. If you plan to take apart your Xbox 360 — and we must warn that doing so will probably void your warranty. As well as the tutorial below you can follow this video that was posted by xEugene123x on Youtube. PART 1: Disassemble The Case 1.The first step is to remove the front face plate. Take a look at the front of the Xbox 360 and insert your finger into the gap on the side cover that is closest to the front USB ports. Gently pull out the face plate with your thumb. With not much force, the face plate should pop right off 2. You will notice that the gray ventilation side plates attach to both the bottom and top white chassis. We will now remove the gray side plate starting with the right side of the unit (The side where the hard drive plugs into). For this you will need the Xecuter Unlock Tool. First you need to unlatch the two internal locks which is done quite easily 3. Here is a couple of pics showing the process of unlocking the two internal latches. Note that when you unlock the latch you should gently lift the gray panel 4. There are three latches down each side of the case. These can be accessed through the round air vent holes. Use the unlock tool to push in these latches. On each latch gently lift the gray side panel so that the latches cannot fall back into place 5. Now turn the Xbox around as you will be doing the same to the other side. To access the first hole to your left you will need to remove a small gray rubber pad 6. Now use the unlock tool again to push in two more latches through the air vent holes. Remember to gently lift as you go along 7. Remove the gray side panel from the case 8A. Now lets remove the gray panel on the other side of the case. This one is a little more straight forward as there are no internal latches to unclip. There are three latches each side. Again use the unlock tool to access each latch through the air vent holes. Make sure you gently lift the gray side plate after unclipping each latch 8B. Now lets switch to the other side. Again there are three latches to unclip. Remember to gently lift the panel so the latches do not fall back into place 9. Once you have both side panels removed, you have essentially removed the main locking mechanism that holds the top and bottom shells together. At this point, return to the front of the unit and turn the entire unit upside down 10. Using a flat head screw driver or even your fingernail, gently pry up the 4 clips holding the top shell to the bottom. You may want to be careful here if you wish to maintain the quality of the security sticker. Some people use a hairdyer to remove it so it can be replaced intact later. Once the clips are unlatched, slowly lift up the front of the bottom shell about an inch or so 11. Now turn over the console to remove the bottom shell. You will need the Unlocking Tool as there are 5 small rectangle holes to the left of the case and 2 small rectangle holes to the right 12. There are 5 pins on one side of the Unlock Tool and 2 pins on the other side. You will need to insert these pins into the small rectangle holes to enable the case to unlatch. The reason the front of the bottom shell needs to be lifted is to prevent the rear latches from reattaching themselves. 13. Carefully insert the Unlock Tool into the row of 5. You should hear a click sound for each clamp you unlatch. Once complete, lift up the left side of the case then move over to the row of 2 on the other side of the case. 14. Carefully insert the Unlock Tool into the row of 2. You should hear a click sound for each clamp you unlatch. 15. Once complete, lift up the entire bottom section of the case 16. Looking down on the Xbox metal casing you will notice that there are a lot of screws. We are only interested in 6 of them. Using your Torx 10 screw driver, remove the silver screws 17. Once you have all the screws removed, flip the Xbox 360 right side up first remove the eject button and then lift up the top plastic shell 18. You should now be greeted with the internals of the Xbox 360. Congratulations! You are now ready to update your DVD firmware or continue onto the next part of the tutorial which is to take out the motherboard for RROD repairs. _________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________ Spoiler To get into the Xbox 360 you’ll need pretty much the same tools you needed to get into the old one. A flat head screwdriver helps, preferably one with a long, thin stem (a tiny flathead is also useful in getting the heatsink clamp off if you want to go that far). You’ll need a torx driver with T8 bit. A phillips head screwdriver if you want to remove the fan on the heatsink and a selection of thin/flat tools to help you pry bits of the case apart. The bad news is that the new Xbox 360 is not really any simpler to disassemble than the old one. I've included photos of the process here but for larger versions and even more than what I've included inline, check out the gallery below. As always, proceed at your own risk - we're not responsible for any damange to your console that happens as a result of following these instructions. Also know that proceeding with this will surely void your warranty from Microsoft. To start you’ll want to first remove the hard drive. Next we have two plastic grates on the left and right of the system that pop right off. They are attached using clips along their edges so work one part out with your flat head driver and just pull the rest off. The side without the hard drive is a bit more difficult. I crammed a plastic tool between the chrome casing and the plastic grate to pull it off and then wedged my fingers in there to get the entire piece off. This next part is the first of two hard parts, and I’m not sure there’s a way around this. Removing the two plastic grates will reveal two more black plastic covers. You can wedge your flathead between the plastic cover and the rest of the system and pry it off. The cover is attached to the system by several plastic stands that fit through little holes behind them. The stands are wider at their outer most edge than they are at the base, too wide to just fit through the hole. In fact, removing these plastic covers will break part of the stands off. It looks like Microsoft did this to make opening the new 360 something that could only be properly reversed at Microsoft itself. Thankfully doing so doesn’t fundamentally ruin the system. Stick your screwdriver in one of the cutouts and pry away. You’ll see a lot of flexing and then hear a pop, once you hear one move to the next portion of the plastic cover. Do this around the edge until the entire cover is removed. Repeat for the other side of the 360. Now you’ve got line of sight into the system itself. Great. At this point you can also remove the 802.11n card which is held in place by a single screw. Remove the T8 screw and the card slides right out. It is just plugged into an internal USB port. Now we have to remove the two chrome surrounds on either side of the system. These are attached via clips that can be tempted loose using that trusty flat head screwdriver. Wedge it between the clip and the rest of the chassis and push away from the chassis: Some clips will give way easily, others will take some coercion. Some of the clips are only accessible via a very tiny, very long flat head. Start with the clips you know you can get off and then try to pry the tough ones later. You’ve got 6 on one side and 5 on the other chrome lip, the shots below should help you. With the two chrome surrounds removed we’re now at the second most difficult part of dissecting the new Xbox 360. Remember these little things: Yep, they’re back, and even more of a pain. On the old 360 you at least had a removable face plate and some insight into what was going on at the rear of the system. This time around you can only look in at the sides which makes this next part quite frustrating. Thankfully I know exactly how many clips you have to break free: three on the back and eight on the front. I started on the back, got the clips loose then moved to the front. You need to access clips at both the left and ride side of the Xbox 360. A flashlight can be very handy here. Remember you’ve got clips at both the top and the bottom of the Xbox to work free at the front. Unfortunately during the process I managed to snap a few of these clips, not to the point where the system couldn’t be put back together thankfully. The only advice I can give you here is to be patient, persistent and have a good flathead screwdriver at your side. Once you’ve pried these clips free the front will separate from the rest of the system. If you’re trying to do it without breaking any clips, good luck, if you don’t mind then be prepared to put some force into the process. Be careful when removing the front of the system. There’s a ribbon cable that connects the 360‘s power button to the rest of the system, you have to remove it before you can proceed. In my original teardown the ribbon cable just ripped right out of its connector without any problems so if this happens to you, you should be ok. The ribbon connector attaches here With the front removed, separate the clips on the back and the top cover of the 360’s should lift right off exposing what we have below: From this point on you’ll need your T8 bit. Start by removing the two screws that hold the front panel PCB in place. With the screws removed the PCB pulls straight out: Now look at the side of the Xbox with the white sticker on it, there are 12 x T8 screws that you need to remove here to take the whole thing apart. If you just want to get the cover off I believe you only need to remove the 5 black ones. The 12th screw is actually hidden under the white Xbox 360 sticker. It looks like Microsoft has done a lot to figure out whether or not you’ve opened this thing. Modders don’t make Microsoft happy. RRoD didn’t make me happy. Modders ftw. The DVD Drive & Motherboard I pulled all 12 screws out but left the four heatsink screws in place since I wanted access to the motherboard. With all four removed I could pull off the bottom cover leaving me with this: The DVD drive lifts right out and you can disconnect the power and SATA cables from the unit easily just like on the older models.