Tutorial Noobert's Flashing Guide | Phat | Slim | Burner Max | PayLoad | Burn Games

[Noobert]

Hello! Welcome to my tutorial showing how to Flash EVERY Xbox 360 DVD Drive!

Myself, and Everyone on this site, is not responsible for you. This entire guide was written by me (No0b3rT). There is ALWAYS a chance to be banned for flashing. If you are banned, or your console does not work after this tutorial, it is not mine or anyone on this sites fault.
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After the 13146 Dashboard Update, a lot of drives have new Firmware.
LiteOn 74850c, 83850c v1 and 2, 93450c are now 0251c.
BenQ 62430c and 64930c are now 04421c.
So on and so forth.

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This Guide WILL be updated with every update including - Hardware Changes, Firmware Updates, Etc..

So if you just happened to stumble on this page, and you're not quite sure what flashing a Xbox 360 Drive means I'll tell ya! Flashing a Xbox 360 is the Process of putting Modified Firmware onto your DVD Drive. In return, this allows you to play Back Up games. You can also burn Xbox 1 (Original) Games.

So before you get into flashing your drive, there are a few things I need to Point out before we get into the tutorial.

Everyone on Se7ensins is responsible for themselves. If you flash your drive, and start burning games that you DO NOT own, Myself, nor anyone else is responsible if you are to get in trouble.

I am also not responsible for you breaking your drive/Xbox 360. This is a beginner friendly tutorial going over things in COMPLETE detail. So if you messup... I don't really know what to say. But if you do have any questions, all of my contact info is on the bottom of this tutorial.​

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Q: Is this illegal?
A: No. Modifying anything you own personally is not illegal. But piracy is. I DO NOT condone piracy. If you get in to trouble, I am not responsible..

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Q: Can I power my Drive with my Xbox 360?
A: Technically speaking, Yes. Do I recommend it? No.

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Q: What do you need to Burn Xbox 360 Back Ups?
A: You need DVD DL (Dual Layered) disks. I recommend Verbatim, but if you can't afford them then get Memorex or any other brand that is cheaper.

You're also going to need the ISO of your game.

You're going to need to have ABGX360 to patch the games to make sure they're Xbox LIVE Safe.

Lastly you're going to need an IHAS LiteOn Burner that is also flashed with BurnerMax Firmware. You can get them off of Amazon or eBay or anywhere electronic. It'll cost about $20 - $40 Depending on which model you get. I recommend the 124b.

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Q: How do you burn the Games after you have everything?
A: I will link this to my Completely detailed tutorial when I make it and post it.

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Q: Can you burn Xbox Original Games, like Halo 2?
A: Yes. You just have to convert the game to be played on LT+ Firmware.

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Q: Can you Do this running Mac OS X?
A: Yes! All you need is to either setup a Windows Partition in Boot Camp, or purchase VMWare Fusion or Parallels desktop.

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Will add more when I get more questions ​

This Tutorial will Show how to Flash the Following Drives:

Phat Xbox 360:
LiteOn - 0251c
(74850C, 83850C(v1), 83850C(v2) & 93450C)

BenQ - 04421C
(All BenQs)

Samsung - MS25, MS28

Hitachi - 32, 36, 40, 46, 47, 58, 59, 78, 79

Slim Xbox 360:
LiteOn - 9504/0272, 0225, 0401, 1071
​

So, obviously before you get right into flashing your drive, you're going to need a few things.

First and Foremost, you're going to need all the Files/Programs/Drivers in order to have a clean flash. Now.. me being as nice as I am to literally everyone, I went out of my way to download all of that for you.

So, if you read the top, I said that this Guide will ALWAYS be updated with the latest and greatest. So if a new firmware comes out, or a new product like the X360USB Pro v2 comes out, this will be updated. Below, as you can see, there is a Download Version Checker. It will say what is in the download, and what version it is. So you can go to, for example, JungleFlasher's website and make sure that it's the correct version. ​

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Download is: Updated to v6
Updated Jungle Flasher V0.1.96 beta (323)

Current Version of JungleFlasher: V0.1.96 beta (323)

Current Version of BurnerMax PayLoad Tool: V0.15

Phat LiteOn: --------------------------------------LT+ 3.0
DG-16D2S
Phat BenQ: ---------------------------------------LT+ 3.0
VAD6038
Phat Samsung: -----------------------------------LT+ 2.01
TS-H943
Phat Hitachi: --------------------------------------LT+ 2.0
32-59
Phat Hitachi: --------------------------------------LT+ 3.0
78+79
Slim LiteOn: --------------------------------------LTU2
DG-16D4S
Slim LiteOn: --------------------------------------LTU2
DG-16D5S
Slim Hitachi --------------------------------------LTU2
DL10N
​

Click Here to Download the File
Now that you have the file, you're going to extract it and it'll make a folder called "X360ISO v6 No0b3rT". Inside that folder, you'll have a folder called CK3 Drivers, CK3i Drivers, Drivers for X360USB Pro, JungleFlasher, and Slim Files. The CK3 Drivers are for the CK3 Pro/Lite. Then the rest are self explanatory.

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Now this is everything you need that is Hardware related:

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Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v2(~$60.00)(~£40.00)

This is the Newly released X360USB Pro v2. This is quite different from the
Original Version. This new version is a CK3i, and X360USB all in one! So all
you would need is this in order to Power and Connect your Drive via SATA.
This is also a lot cheaper than buying everything separate. This is definitively
what I recommend for flashing.
If you want/have to buy a X360USB Pro v2:
Click Here to Purchase for US
Click Here to Purchase for UK

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Molex Power Brick (~$15.00)(~£12.00)

Now, sadly, the CK3i/Mini is not powered by USB like the X360USB Pro.
They are both run by Molex Power. So this is a Wall input power supply
for Molex adapters. If you need to buy the Molex Power Supply:
Click Here for Everywhere

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VIA 6421 SATA PCI Card (~$16.00)(~£11.00)

This is a 6421 SATA PCI Card. This is the other option instead of the
X360USB Pro. It's cheaper, and can only be used in Tower PCs. I would insist
that you get the X360USB Pro, as it is all USB. It may be more expensive,
but it works so much better and you don't have to open up your tower.
THIS WILL NOT WORK IF YOU'RE FLASHING A SLIM
THIS ONLY WORKS FOR PHAT DRIVES
If you want/have to buy a 6421 SATA Card:
Click Here to Purchase

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Okay! So now that you have everything you need in order to flash, we're going to setup everything so you can flash .
Now I know, I know, you just want to flash. But I promise, after this, you'll learn. ​

First thing first, you're going to want to find out what drive you have. It's
pretty easy. For the Phat (Old) Xbox 360s, take off the faceplate, and look
into the little opening under the disk tray. Then look for the color wires.

This Picture should help:

Now if you read the top, you'll already know that all drives passed the 13146
Dashboard update have all been updated. So no matter what BenQ, LiteOn,
Samsung, or Hitachi you have, the firmware is now all the same.

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​

But that ^ Up there was all for that Phat Xboxs. If you have a Slim... I have
kinda bad news. The only real way to find out what drive you have in a Slim
is to open it. If you don't know how to then me being nice still, found an
amazing written tutorial with HD Pictures that you can find below.

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Okay, so the last thing to do before you flash a Xbox 360, is to install Drivers for the Products.
So I'm going to go through each product one by one showing how to install the drivers.
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Team-Xecuter Mini/Lite

If you have a CK3 Mini, or a CK3 Lite, there are no drivers.

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Team-Xecuter CK3 Pro

If you have a CK3 Pro, download the file from above, and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT.
Inside you will see CK3 Pro Drivers. Go into there and double click the setup file.
If you're on Windows Vista or Seven just make sure you run it as administrator.
When the setup is complete, connect the CK3 Pro via USB and it will automatically
install the drivers for your device. If it doesn't restart the computer and try again.

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Team-Xecuter CK3i

If you have a CK3i, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT.
Inside you should see CK3i Drivers. Connect your CK3i via USB and it will ask to install.
Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder. After you choose that, make it go to the
CK3i Folder inside of the folder you extracted. If all done correctly, your device will install.

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Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v1

If you have a X360USB Pro v1, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT.
Inside you should see X360USB Pro v1 Drivers. Connect your device via USB and a message
will come up asking you to install drivers. Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder.
After you chose that, make it go to the X360USB Pro v1 Drivers folder. If all is done correctly,
your device will install and show up in JungleFlasher.

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Team-Xecuter X360USB Pro v2

If you have a X360USB Pro v2, download the file from above and open X360ISO v6 No0b3rT.
Inside you should see X360USB Pro v2 Drivers. Connect your device via USB and a message
will come up asking you to install drivers. Choose install Drivers from a Specific Folder.
After you chose that, make it go to the X360USB Pro v2 Drivers folder. If all is done correctly,
your device will install and show up in JungleFlasher.

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6421 SATA PCI Card

If you're using a SATA PCI Card, power off your PC (obviously), and take the side panel off.
Insert the PCI Card into the computer. Put the side panel back on. Turn back on your computer.
When the computer starts, it'll say there is new hardware discovered. Now usually, almost
every PCI Card comes with a CD for the drivers. In this case if it did, put the CD into your PC.
When the CD is in your computer, it will either do nothing, or ask you to run a setup. If it asks
to run a setup, run it. When the setup is done, go back to the window and hit install automatically.

If it didn't do anything, then go to the setup new hardware window and hit install from a specific
location and choose the CD that you just inserted. Then it will install it automatically.

Now your PCI card should be running, and will be detected in JungleFlasher.

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Spoiler

Credit to Phat Guide:

Goes to Team-Xecuter​

Disassemble Time: 5 Minutes
Difficulty: Easy
Tools Required: Xecuter Unlock KitV2 (Can be purchased from all Xecuter Resellers) (If you wish to remove the motherboard to do an RROD repair then you will also need a Xecuter Xbox 360 RROD Repair Kit Pro (Torx 8 & Torx 10 Screwdriver included) and also follow Part 2 of this tutorial

With two simple tools you are able to disassemble the Xbox 360 case, removing the components from the system without any damage. If you plan to take apart your Xbox 360 — and we must warn that doing so will probably void your warranty.

As well as the tutorial below you can follow this video that was posted by xEugene123x on Youtube.

PART 1: Disassemble The Case

1.The first step is to remove the front face plate. Take a look at the front of the Xbox 360 and insert your finger into the gap on the side cover that is closest to the front USB ports. Gently pull out the face plate with your thumb. With not much force, the face plate should pop right off

2. You will notice that the gray ventilation side plates attach to both the bottom and top white chassis. We will now remove the gray side plate starting with the right side of the unit (The side where the hard drive plugs into). For this you will need the Xecuter Unlock Tool. First you need to unlatch the two internal locks which is done quite easily

3. Here is a couple of pics showing the process of unlocking the two internal latches. Note that when you unlock the latch you should gently lift the gray panel

4. There are three latches down each side of the case. These can be accessed through the round air vent holes. Use the unlock tool to push in these latches. On each latch gently lift the gray side panel so that the latches cannot fall back into place

5. Now turn the Xbox around as you will be doing the same to the other side. To access the first hole to your left you will need to remove a small gray rubber pad

6. Now use the unlock tool again to push in two more latches through the air vent holes. Remember to gently lift as you go along

7. Remove the gray side panel from the case

8A. Now lets remove the gray panel on the other side of the case. This one is a little more straight forward as there are no internal latches to unclip. There are three latches each side. Again use the unlock tool to access each latch through the air vent holes. Make sure you gently lift the gray side plate after unclipping each latch

8B. Now lets switch to the other side. Again there are three latches to unclip. Remember to gently lift the panel so the latches do not fall back into place

9. Once you have both side panels removed, you have essentially removed the main locking mechanism that holds the top and bottom shells together. At this point, return to the front of the unit and turn the entire unit upside down

10. Using a flat head screw driver or even your fingernail, gently pry up the 4 clips holding the top shell to the bottom. You may want to be careful here if you wish to maintain the quality of the security sticker. Some people use a hairdyer to remove it so it can be replaced intact later. Once the clips are unlatched, slowly lift up the front of the bottom shell about an inch or so

11. Now turn over the console to remove the bottom shell. You will need the Unlocking Tool as there are 5 small rectangle holes to the left of the case and 2 small rectangle holes to the right

12. There are 5 pins on one side of the Unlock Tool and 2 pins on the other side. You will need to insert these pins into the small rectangle holes to enable the case to unlatch. The reason the front of the bottom shell needs to be lifted is to prevent the rear latches from reattaching themselves.

13. Carefully insert the Unlock Tool into the row of 5. You should hear a click sound for each clamp you unlatch. Once complete, lift up the left side of the case then move over to the row of 2 on the other side of the case.

14. Carefully insert the Unlock Tool into the row of 2. You should hear a click sound for each clamp you unlatch.

15. Once complete, lift up the entire bottom section of the case

16. Looking down on the Xbox metal casing you will notice that there are a lot of screws. We are only interested in 6 of them. Using your Torx 10 screw driver, remove the silver screws

17. Once you have all the screws removed, flip the Xbox 360 right side up first remove the eject button and then lift up the top plastic shell

18. You should now be greeted with the internals of the Xbox 360. Congratulations! You are now ready to update your DVD firmware or continue onto the next part of the tutorial which is to take out the motherboard for RROD repairs.

​

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Spoiler

Complete Credit to this Slim Guide:

7Heavens from XboxMB​

To get into the Xbox 360 you’ll need pretty much the same tools you needed to get into the old one. A flat head screwdriver helps, preferably one with a long, thin stem (a tiny flathead is also useful in getting the heatsink clamp off if you want to go that far). You’ll need a torx driver with T8 bit. A phillips head screwdriver if you want to remove the fan on the heatsink and a selection of thin/flat tools to help you pry bits of the case apart.

The bad news is that the new Xbox 360 is not really any simpler to disassemble than the old one. I've included photos of the process here but for larger versions and even more than what I've included inline, check out the gallery below. As always, proceed at your own risk - we're not responsible for any damange to your console that happens as a result of following these instructions. Also know that proceeding with this will surely void your warranty from Microsoft.



To start you’ll want to first remove the hard drive. Next we have two plastic grates on the left and right of the system that pop right off. They are attached using clips along their edges so work one part out with your flat head driver and just pull the rest off.

The side without the hard drive is a bit more difficult. I crammed a plastic tool between the chrome casing and the plastic grate to pull it off and then wedged my fingers in there to get the entire piece off.

This next part is the first of two hard parts, and I’m not sure there’s a way around this. Removing the two plastic grates will reveal two more black plastic covers. You can wedge your flathead between the plastic cover and the rest of the system and pry it off.

The cover is attached to the system by several plastic stands that fit through little holes behind them. The stands are wider at their outer most edge than they are at the base, too wide to just fit through the hole. In fact, removing these plastic covers will break part of the stands off. It looks like Microsoft did this to make opening the new 360 something that could only be properly reversed at Microsoft itself. Thankfully doing so doesn’t fundamentally ruin the system.
​

Stick your screwdriver in one of the cutouts and pry away. You’ll see a lot of flexing and then hear a pop, once you hear one move to the next portion of the plastic cover. Do this around the edge until the entire cover is removed. Repeat for the other side of the 360.

Now you’ve got line of sight into the system itself. Great.

At this point you can also remove the 802.11n card which is held in place by a single screw. Remove the T8 screw and the card slides right out. It is just plugged into an internal USB port.

Now we have to remove the two chrome surrounds on either side of the system. These are attached via clips that can be tempted loose using that trusty flat head screwdriver. Wedge it between the clip and the rest of the chassis and push away from the chassis:

Some clips will give way easily, others will take some coercion. Some of the clips are only accessible via a very tiny, very long flat head. Start with the clips you know you can get off and then try to pry the tough ones later.

You’ve got 6 on one side and 5 on the other chrome lip, the shots below should help you.

With the two chrome surrounds removed we’re now at the second most difficult part of dissecting the new Xbox 360. Remember these little things:

Yep, they’re back, and even more of a pain.


On the old 360 you at least had a removable face plate and some insight into what was going on at the rear of the system. This time around you can only look in at the sides which makes this next part quite frustrating.

Thankfully I know exactly how many clips you have to break free: three on the back and eight on the front.

I started on the back, got the clips loose then moved to the front. You need to access clips at both the left and ride side of the Xbox 360. A flashlight can be very handy here. Remember you’ve got clips at both the top and the bottom of the Xbox to work free at the front. Unfortunately during the process I managed to snap a few of these clips, not to the point where the system couldn’t be put back together thankfully.

The only advice I can give you here is to be patient, persistent and have a good flathead screwdriver at your side. Once you’ve pried these clips free the front will separate from the rest of the system. If you’re trying to do it without breaking any clips, good luck, if you don’t mind then be prepared to put some force into the process.

Be careful when removing the front of the system. There’s a ribbon cable that connects the 360‘s power button to the rest of the system, you have to remove it before you can proceed. In my original teardown the ribbon cable just ripped right out of its connector without any problems so if this happens to you, you should be ok.

The ribbon connector attaches here


With the front removed, separate the clips on the back and the top cover of the 360’s should lift right off exposing what we have below:

From this point on you’ll need your T8 bit. Start by removing the two screws that hold the front panel PCB in place. With the screws removed the PCB pulls straight out:

Now look at the side of the Xbox with the white sticker on it, there are 12 x T8 screws that you need to remove here to take the whole thing apart. If you just want to get the cover off I believe you only need to remove the 5 black ones.

The 12th screw is actually hidden under the white Xbox 360 sticker. It looks like Microsoft has done a lot to figure out whether or not you’ve opened this thing. Modders don’t make Microsoft happy. RRoD didn’t make me happy. Modders ftw.


The DVD Drive & Motherboard
I pulled all 12 screws out but left the four heatsink screws in place since I wanted access to the motherboard. With all four removed I could pull off the bottom cover leaving me with this:

The DVD drive lifts right out and you can disconnect the power and SATA cables from the unit easily just like on the older models.​

 

[Noobert]

Spoiler

Depending how good you are at this whole modding/hacking thing, LiteOn Drives can be the
hardest/semi easiest drives to flash.

The old LiteOn Drives all require a Probe in order to be flashed. So you have to get one :-\

Team-Xecuter Probe v3 (~$15.00)(~€10.00)

If you don't know what the Probe 3 is, it's a Probe that connects to every connectivity kit
made by Team-Xecuter. It is used to get the Keys out of the older Xbox 360s with LiteOn Drives.
If you want/have to buy a Probe v3:
Click Here for USA
Click Here for Everywhere Else​

Disable VIA 6421 PCI Drivers

I know that sounds weird, but if you purchased a 6421 PCI Card, you have to disable the
Drivers in order for JungleFlasher to find your drive correctly. This is only needed for
the LiteOn Drives.

So firstly, go to Device Manager:

WinXP - Start/Control Panel/Administrative Tools/Device manager
WinV/7 - Start/Control Panel/Device Manager

Look for your VIA 6421 Driver. Usually it is under Storage Controllers. When you find it,
Right-Click it, and hit Disable.

Now you are going to find the SYS File in your drivers folder.
My Computer/Local Drive C:/WINDOWS/System32/drivers

If you're running Windows XP, look for the file vsmraid.sys
If you're running Windows 7/Vista look for viamraid.sys

Once you find them, right click it, and hit rename. Add bak to the name.

So the end result should be:
vsmbakraid.sys
viambakraid.sys

Now go back to Device Manager, right click the SATA PCI Card, and hit Enable.

When it re-enables it, if all went well, it will have a yellow (!) Sign.

Now you are ready to flash your LiteOn.

Videos




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Step 1.) Take out the DVD Drive from the Xbox 360 by removing the Power and the SATA Chord from the Back of it.

Step 2.) Turn the DVD Drive over and you'll see 4 Screws Indicated below.

Step 3.) Unscrew the Screws with a Regular Philips Screwdriver.

Step 4.) Remove the Bottom Panel of the DVD Drive so you can see the bottom of the laser and the Motherboard.

Step 5.) NOW We are Completely ready to Flash the Drive.

Your setup should look somewhat similar to this:

Step 6.) On the motherboard, locate the point, MPX01. (This is the Probe Point)

At this point, you may want to remove the Ribbon Cable connecting the Laser to the PCB.
There is a slight chance your laser could be ruined if it's not removed before the flash.

Step 7.) Extract the file you SHOULD HAVE downloaded. Go to X360ISO v1 No0b3rT, JungleFlasher (LT+ 3.0), and Open JungleFlasher. If you're on Vista or 7 Run as Administrator.

Step 8.) Go to the DVDKey 32 Tab. Under I/O Port go through every single option until you see your drive pop up. On the Right Under Com Port, Choose COM3 or COM4 (Whichever one is your Connectivity Kit).

Step 9.) Click on the Button PhatKey, and this Message will Pop-Up:

Step 10.) You HAVE to do this VERY FAST. Put the Probe 3 on the Probe Point, MPX01. Hit Yes to the Pop-Up, with the probe still on, and push down the button then let go within a Second.

Step 11.) If done correctly, another Pop-Up will come up saying this:

Step 12.) Remove the Probe. Hit Ok and Hold the Probe Button for 5 Seconds and then let go.

Step 13.) If this is done correctly, a box will come up asking you to save files. Make a folder in "My Documents" called Keys. Save every file it asks you to in there.

Step 14.) After you save Dummy.bin it will ask if you would like to Auto-Load Lite-on iXtreme LT+ Firmware. Hit Yes.

Step 15.) After you hit yes, you will notice that the Top Box and the Bottom Box are exactly the same, if they're not, hit "Spoof Source to Target" 3-5 Times.

Step 16.) Go into the MTK Flash 32 Tab at the Top of JungleFlasher.

Step 17.) Hit the Lite-On Erase button you will get 2 Pop-Ups, one right after the other. Hit Yes, to the First One.

Step 18.) GET READY! The Second Pop-Up will come up. Hit Yes, wait about 1-2 Second(s) TURN OFF your Connectivity Kit, and then TURN IT BACK ON all within less then 2 Seconds.

Step 19.) If done correctly, your Settings should be Identical, or very close to my settings on the right. If you DID NOT get it, hit the button that says "Intro / Device ID". A Pop-Up will come up, hit Ok and again, turn off your Connectivity Kit and Turn it back on. This time within 1 Second.

Step 20.) Once your settings are correct, hit Write.

Step 21.) It will now begin to Write the iXtreme LT+ 3.0 Firmware to Your LiteOn DVD Drive.

Step 22.) Once complete JungleFlasher will say this.

Step 23.) Once the Flash is Verified hit Outro / ATA Reset.

Step 24.) Make Sure that Your Settings are the same as mine, and your DVD Key is Verified.

Step 25.) Eject your Drive to Make sure it works, and then eject it to close it.

Step 26.) Turn off the Connectivity Kit's Power, Unplug the SATA Cable, and the Power Cable from the Back of your DVD Drive. Put the Back Panel back onto the DVD Drive and Screw it in. Put the Xbox 360 Back together and Enjoy Playing Back-Ups. :first::banana:ign1:
​

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Spoiler

​

Okay so without a doubt, BenQ is possibly the easiest drive to flash, so this may lack a few pictures here and there.​

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For a BenQ all you need is Power and SATA. Like I said in the beginning, you can use your
Xbox 360 as power, but I don't recommend it. If that's all you have to use for power, then
go for it. Save yourself some money For SATA you can use a PCI card or a X360USB Pro.

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Step 1.) So firstly, take your Xbox apart and take the DVD Drive out... Obviously.

Step 2.) Hook up your Connections to the Back of the Drive, SATA/Power.

Step 3.) Open JungleFlasher and Go to the

Tab in the Top.

Step 4.) In that tab, click on

and it will send the "Magic Keys" to your SATA Port.

Sending Magic Keys to Drive on port 0x0000
……………………………………………………………
Done!
Sending Vendor Intro
Requesting Device ID
Manufacturer ID:  0xC2
Device ID:  0x11
Flash Name:  MXIC(MX25L2005)
Flash Size:     262144 bytes

Step 5.) Now that your drive is ready, you're going to hit Read.

Getting Status from port 0x0000
Serial flash found with Status 0x73

Reading Bank 0: …………………………….
Reading Bank 1: …………………………….
Reading Bank 2: …………………………….
Reading Bank 3: …………………………….

Dumped in 8960mS

Step 6.) After it reads it, it will ask you to save a file called "BENQ-OFW.bin" Safe it somewhere that you won't lose it. For example, a folder in your Documents.

Benq Dump file saved to BENQ-OFW.bin
Loading Firmware from buffer
Inquiry string found
Identify string found
Drive key @ 0xA020 (Drive Key Here)
Firmware Osig:   [PBDS        VAD6038         0442]
Firmware is:    Stock
Key database updated

Step 7.) Now that your original firmware is dumped and saved, it will ask if you wish to autoload BenQ LT+ Firmware. (Hit Yes)

Firmware Osig:   [PBDS        VAD6038         0442]
Firmware is: LT-Plus 3.0
Spoofing Target
DVD Key copied to target
Target is LT - ID String not copied to Target
Serial Data already matches


Loading MTK_Flash source file

Step 8.) Now, go back to MTK Flash 32 tab, and hit Write.

Getting Status from port 0x0000
SPi flash found with Status 0x73

Sending Chip Erase to Port 0x0000
Erasing:
Writing target buffer to flash
Writing Bank 0: …………………………….
Writing Bank 1: …………………………….
Writing Bank 2: …………………………….
Writing Bank 3: …………………………….

Flash Verification Test !
Reading Bank 0: …………………………….
Reading Bank 1: …………………………….
Reading Bank 2: …………………………….
Reading Bank 3: …………………………….
Write verified OK !

Step 9.) After you hit write, make sure at the end it says that the write was verified OK. If it does not, all you're going to do is hit Erase, then hit Write over and over until it says it was verified OK.

Step 10.) Now you can hit

and you've just flashed your BenQ Drive with LT+ 3.0 :rofl: :lock1: ign1:

Sending Vendor Outro to port 0x0000

Key found in KeyDB at record (1 - Desktop)
Key is: Drive Key Here
Key has been tested and verified, thanks C4eva !
Drive is Benq..

​

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Spoiler

Okay so without a doubt, a Samsung is possibly the easiest drive to flash, so this may lack a few pictures here and there.​

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For a Samsung all you need is Power and SATA. Like I said in the beginning, you can use your
Xbox 360 as power, but I don't recommend it. If that's all you have to use for power, then
go for it. Save yourself some money For SATA you can use a PCI card or a X360USB Pro.

______________________________________________________________________________

Step 1.) So firstly, take your Xbox apart and take the DVD Drive out... Obviously.

Step 2.) Hook up your Connections to the Back of the Drive, SATA/Power.

Step 3.) Open JungleFlasher and Go to the

Tab in the Top.

Step 4.) When you're in MTK Flash, hit

after assuring your drive is all plugged in and detected.

Sending Sammy_Un_Lock to Drive on port 0x0000
Stage 1, Complete!
Stage 2, Complete!
Stage 3, Complete!
Done!
Sending Vendor Intro
Requesting Device ID
Manufacturer ID: 0xBF
Device ID: 0xB6
Flash Name:    SST(SST39SF020)
Flash Size:    262144 bytes

Step 5.) Now that your Sammy is ready for flashing, hit the read button.

Getting Status from port 0x0000
Parallel flash found with Status 0x70

Reading Bank 0: …………………………….
Reading Bank 1: …………………………….
Reading Bank 2: …………………………….
Reading Bank 3: …………………………….

Dumped in 2658ms

Step 6.) It will now ask you to save a file called '"SAM-OFW.bin", for now just save it to your desktop.

Samsung Dump file saved to SAM-OFW.bin
Loading firmware from buffer
Inquiry string found
Identify string found
Drive key @ 0x416A (Drive key here)
Firmware Osig:   [TSSTcorpDVD-ROM TS-H943Ams20]
Firmware is:   Stock
Key database updated

Step 7.) A pop-up will come up asking if you want to load LT+. Obviously, hit yes.

Inquiry string found
Identify string found
Drive key @ 0x4044 FFF--
Firmware Osig:  [TSSTcorpDVD-ROM TS-H943Ams28]
Firmware is: LT v2.01
Spoofing Target
DVD Key copied to target
ID strings already match

Loading MTK_Flash source file

Step 8.) Now go back to

, and hit Write.

Getting Status from port 0x0000
Parallel flash found with Status 0x70
Writing target buffer to flash

Sending Chip Erase request to port 0x0000
Erasing: ………………
Writing Bank 0: …………………………….
Writing Bank 1: …………………………….
Writing Bank 2: …………………………….
Writing Bank 3: …………………………….

Flash Verification Test !
Reading Bank 0: …………………………….
Reading Bank 1: …………………………….
Reading Bank 2: …………………………….
Reading Bank 3: …………………………….
Write Verified OK !

Step 9.) Assuming all went well, and it says "Write Verified OK!" then we can move along. If it didn't then what you're going to do, is hit Erase, then Write over and over until it says it was verified OK.

Step 10.) Now you're going to hit

.

Sending Vendor Outro to port 0x0000

Key found in KeyDB at record (1 - Desktop)
Key is: Drive Key Here
Key has been tested and verified, thanks C4eva !
Drive is Samsung..

Step 11.) As long as yours comes back up with your Key Verified, and it shows your Drive type, and your key, then you're good to go. You can power off your Drive, unplug the SATA and power, and enjoy playing your backups! :rofl: :lock1: ign1:

​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

**************************************************

Okay, so as you can see, there is 2 Different Spoilers. Now realistically there are nine different types of Hitachi drives.
There is 32, 36, 40, 46, 47, 58, 59, 78, and 79. You may be wonder why there are 2 Spoilers. The reason is because
32 through 78 are all flashed the same way. 79 Is the only drive that requires another step.
So if you look at your drive in the top it should say the version it is.

**************************************************

​

Spoiler

Okay, so first things first, you have to get your Hitachi into Mode-B in order to flash it at all.
So what you're going to do, is power on your drive and go to the

on the top.

Next, you're going to hit

after you MAKE SURE your drive is detected.

Now, a pop-up will come up:

It's going to tell you what to do.

1.) Eject your DVD Drive.
2.) Power off your drive.
3.) Hit OK to the Message on the Pop-Up.
4.) When you see dots (..........) going across, turn the power back on.

Now you should see on the bottom this ( or close to this ).

Drive, answers normal Windows Inquiry 12 0 0 0 24 0
0000: 05 80 00 32 5B 00 00 00 - 48 4C 2D 44 54 2D 53 54 …2[…HL-DT-ST
0010: 44 56 44 2D 52 4F 4D 20 - 47 44 52 33 31 32 30 4C DVD-ROM GDR3120L
0020: 30 30 37 39                                       Over here will be your
                               Drive type (0047,etc..)
Mode-B Done!

Found drive C: - Hard Drive.
Found drive D: - CD/DVD.
Found drive E: - Hard Drive.
No Hitachi drives were found!

Now you're going to wait about 15-20 Seconds and it will eventually say:

New CD/DVD detected.
Found drive C: - Hard Drive.
Found drive D: - CD/DVD.
Found drive E: - Hard Drive.
Found drive F: - CD/DVD.  <-- Hitachi found

If it does not say that within 1 Minute, what you can do is in the top right, it shows the drives there.
All you're going to do is hit

. Until it shows the message above.

When the message finally comes up, you're in Mode-B and Ready to Flash
______________________________________________________________________________
​

Okay so now that we're back to flashing the actual drive, I just want to say that a Hitachi DVD Drive is by far
one of the easiest to flash. So this tutorial may lack a few pictures here and there.​

Step 1.) So firstly, double check to see if you're in Mode-B. To do this,
double tap the Eject Button and if it Ejects, then you're good. If not, then try Mode-B Again.

Step 2.) Go to the

on the top.

Step 3.) Next, make sure that you have the correct drive selected on the left, and that you have Dump Drive selected to the right.

Dumping f/w of Hitachi (Drive type) by Ram Upload Method via WIN32 API
Unlocked!
…………………………….
Drive is rev (Drive type)
Dumped in 1140mS

Step 4.) After you hit Dump, it'll ask you to save a file called "Hit-OFW.bin" You can save it to your desktop for now.

Step 5.) Now go back to

and check off Flash LT-Plus.

Step 6.) Now hit the button "Flash LT-Plus". It will switch over to the Firmware tab, and a pop-up will come up.

Step 7.) Hit Yes to the Pop-Up, and if all went well you will have a similar response in your box below.

Dumping Sector 9003F000: . . . .
Read back & compare complete, Flashing Stable!
Repairing Test Sector.
Flashing Sector 9003F000
Done !
Flashing Sector 9003E000
Flashing Sector 90003000
Flashing Sector 90005000
Flashing Sector 90006000
Flashing Sector 9000A000
Flashing Sector 9001C000
Flashing Sector 90027000
Flashing Sector 9002E000
Flashing Sector 90033000
Flashing Sector 90034000
Flashing Sector 90035000
Done !
Write Verify test..
Dumping Flashing: ……………………
Read back & compare completed, Write Verified!
Flash Complete !

That's it! After it says flash complete you can Exit JungleFlasher, Disconnect the SATA
and Power from your drives, then start playing your backups!
Have fun! :rofl: :lock1: ign1:
​

​

​

Spoiler

Okay, so first things first, you have to get your Hitachi into Mode-B in order to flash it at all.
So what you're going to do, is power on your drive and go to the

on the top.

Next, you're going to hit

after you MAKE SURE your drive is detected.

Now, a pop-up will come up:

It's going to tell you what to do.

1.) Eject your DVD Drive.
2.) Power off your drive.
3.) Hit OK to the Message on the Pop-Up.
4.) When you see dots (..........) going across, turn the power back on.

Now you should see on the bottom this ( or close to this ).

Drive, answers normal Windows Inquiry 12 0 0 0 24 0
0000: 05 80 00 32 5B 00 00 00 - 48 4C 2D 44 54 2D 53 54 …2[…HL-DT-ST
0010: 44 56 44 2D 52 4F 4D 20 - 47 44 52 33 31 32 30 4C DVD-ROM GDR3120L
0020: 30 30 37 39                                       Over here will be your
                               Drive type (0047,etc..)
Mode-B Done!

Found drive C: - Hard Drive.
Found drive D: - CD/DVD.
Found drive E: - Hard Drive.
No Hitachi drives were found!

Now you're going to wait about 15-20 Seconds and it will eventually say:

New CD/DVD detected.
Found drive C: - Hard Drive.
Found drive D: - CD/DVD.
Found drive E: - Hard Drive.
Found drive F: - CD/DVD.  <-- Hitachi found

If it does not say that within 1 Minute, what you can do is in the top right, it shows the drives there.
All you're going to do is hit

. Until it shows the message above.

When the message finally comes up, you're in Mode-B and Ready to Flash
______________________________________________________________________________

Okay so yes, this is the extra part I was talking about. In order for the 79 Drives to be
Unlocked, you need a Audio type CD that unlocks it. So what you're going to do after you have
your drive in Mode-B, is click on the Link in the Bottom Left.

Right after you click it, it will download a .ZIP file called "79_Unlock".

Right click it and hit Extract Here (If you have WinRAR installed).

When you extract it, you will get a folder called 79_Unlock. Inside there should be 3 Files.

Now, we need to go install a Program called ImgBurn.
(Click the Icon)

After you download, and Install ImgBurn, it will Automatically Open.

When it Opens, choose the top left box.

In the top, choose the Folder with the Magnifying Glass over it.

Select the Image.cue file, or else it wont work.

After it's selected, hit open. Make sure your file is the same as mine:

Change the Write Speed to 2.4 OR LOWER to make it burn correctly.

Now that everything is perfect, just click the button on the bottom to burn it.

Then it will start to burn, and when it's done, Eject it and you're ready to flash.
​

Okay so now that we're back to flashing the actual drive, I just want to say that a Hitachi DVD Drive is by far
one of the easiest to flash. So this tutorial may lack a few pictures here and there.​

Step 1.) So firstly, double check to see if you're in Mode-B. To do this,
double tap the Eject Button and if it Ejects, then you're good. If not, then try Mode-B Again.

Step 2.) Go to the

on the top.

Step 3.) Next, Eject the Tray, and insert the 79 Unlock CD you just made.

Step 4.) Now that it's in, hit the

on the bottom left.
The Tray should close and you should get this in the bottom box.

Playing 79Unlock Audio CD
Pausing 79Unlock Audio CD, after 500mS
Ejecting 79Unlock Audio CD
Setting bit 3 @ 0x5BD
Executing code in Ram
Done!

Step 5.) Now you're COMPLETELY ready to flash your 79. Make sure that you have the correct drive selected on the left, and that you have Dump Drive selected to the right.

Dumping f/w of Hitachi (Drive type) by Ram Upload Method via WIN32 API
Unlocked!
…………………………….
Drive is rev (Drive type)
Dumped in 1140mS

Step 6.) Now go back to

and check off Flash LT-Plus.

Step 7.) Now hit the button "Flash LT-Plus". It will switch over to the Firmware tab, and a pop-up will come up.

Step 8.) Hit Yes to the Pop-Up, and if all went well you will have a similar response in your box below.

Done !
Write Verify test..
Dumping Flashing: ……………………
Read back & compare completed, Write Verified!
Flash Complete !

That's it! After it says flash complete you can Exit JungleFlasher, Disconnect the SATA
and Power from your drives, then start playing your backups!
Have fun! :rofl: :lock1: ign1:

​

​

 

[Noobert]

Spoiler

________________________________________________________________________________

Okay well, as you can see, there are 2 Different ways to flash a Slim.

There is the Winbond/Kamikaze Hack, and the MXIC.

The two main ones that you need to worry about are MXIC and Winbond.
If you plan on replacing the PCB, it doesn't matter which Drive type you have.

************

This Guide is Only for the Lite-On DG-16D4S 9504/0272, 0225, 0401, and 1071

************
As you can see below, the difference between Winbond and MXIC.
If the first two numbers are 03, you have a MXIC
If the first two numbers are 05, you have a Winbond.

If you have a MXIC DVD Drive, you're going to need Team-Xecuter's Sputnik Probe.

If you have a Winbond DVD Drive, you're going to need to Drill into your Chip to Unlock it.

If you're scared to do either one of these, then continue to the Replace PCB Spoiler.​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

Okay so you have a MXIC LiteOn Drive!

Now to make this all easier on you, again since I'm such a nice person, I'm going to link
you to the Sputnik Probe which is NEEDED for the MXIC Flash, and a Fiberglass Scratch Pen.

Sputnik360 Probe (~$15.00)(~€10.00)

If you don't know what a Sputnik Probe is, it's basically the probe needed in order to
unlock the MXIC Slims. Before I get asked, this is NOT the same as the Probe 3, nor
can this be used to get the keys from Phat LiteOns or vice versa.
If you need to buy the Probe:

The Probe is Outdated
Either purchase the Switch QSB, or do the Kamikaze method
to the MXIC DVD Drive, sorry.

________________________________________________________________________________

Fiberglass Scratch Pen (~$5.00)(~€4.00)

If you don't know what a Fiberglass Pen is for, it is to remove the Green PCB coating and
show the copper in order to expose to trace.
If you need to buy the Pen:
Click Here for Everywhere
________________________________________________________________________________

Probe 3 Cable (~$7.00)(~€5.00)

If you don't know what a Cable is for, it is basically a Cable that allows you to press a
button that lets you power off the drive instead of doing it with the Xbox or CK3 Switch.
If you need to buy the Cable:
Click Here for USA
Click Here for UK

________________________________________________________________________________


Step 1.) Extract the .zip file.

Step 2.) Open JungleFlasher (LT+ 3.0), and Open the Program JungleFlasher

Step 3.) Head over to the DVDKey 32 Tab, and make sure your drive is detected.

Step 4.) Click on the

Button.

Step 5.) Hit No to the first Pop-Up

Step 6.) Then hit Yes to the second Pop-Up

Step 7.) Now, after you hit Yes to the second one, turn off and on the power to your drive.

Step 8.) After you turn it on, it'll ask you to save:
Key.bin, Serial.bin, Inquiry.bin, Identify.bin, and Dummy.bin

Step 9.) Then you're going to hit Yes to Auto-Load LT+

Now that you've saved your keys, unplug the SATA and Power Cable from the Drive.

Now, we have to unsolder the board from the wires.

So... while you Soldering Iron is getting heated, take out every Ribbon Cable.
The two small ones get pulled out, the big one connected to the laser gets lifted, then you
can pull the Ribbon Out.

For future reference, the LiteOn is labeled to where the Wires go:

From the Bottom Up is Black, Red, Yellow, Green, White.

You can use Soldering Flux if you would like ( I would HIGHLY recommend it ).
It's used to keep the Solder from getting too dry.

Step 10.) So once all the Solder Points are covered in flux, start desoldering them.

Step 11.) Once all desoldered, you will see straight across, a Screw

Obviously, unscrew it.

Step 12.) If you used Soldering Flux, I recommend cleaning it now.

Step 13.) Now that you unscrewed the screw, you can now lift the PCB completely out of the DVD Casing.

Step 14.) Now that it is out of the casing, turn it around and look for the arrow that is about the SATA Port.

This will show you where the trace is:

Step 15.) Now get an exacto knife/razor blade.

Step 16.) LIGHTLY go over the entire surface.

When you're done going over it with the blade, it should look like this:

Step 17.) Now get your Fiberglass Pen and go over the same surface. With the pen, you can go a bit more forcefully.

After using the pen, the copper should be completely exposed:

Step 18.) Now take the exacto knife again, and cut the trace.
You can look at this picture, and follow the red line on where to cut:

After it's cut, take a Cotton Swab/Q-Tip and just go over the cut to make sure there's nothing in it.

Step 19.) Now go to the Sputnik Probe, and you'll see 5 - 10 - 15 - 20.
If you turn the 10 to On, you should be fine. If it doesn't work, just turn it up by 5.

Step 20.) Now hook up the Power, and SATA, and go back to JungleFlasher. ( DON'T SOLDER THE WIRES BACK YET )

Step 21.) Once in JungleFlasher, go to the MTKFlash32 Tab and hit:

Step 22.) To the first Pop-Up, hit Yes

Step 23.) Now under the Flash Chip Properties, it should have this:

Step 24.) Now you should see the

button.

Now, when you hit that button there will be a Pop-Up that looks like this:

After you hit Yes, a bunch of Dots will start going on the bottom. What you're going to do is this:
Push the Button Down on the Probe Cable, and probe this point:

Which is right next to the Copper Trace.

As soon as you push down on the Point, release the button and the Dots will stop if all was right.

Now instead of 0x8C, it'll say 0x00.

Step 25.) Now again, hit

again, and make sure it says Status 0x72 to the right, and 0x00 on the bottom right.

Now go back to the Firmware Tool tab, and make sure all your info is still loaded, and that the bottom says LT+ 3.0.
If it's not, just load your Dummy.bin again.

Step 26.) Now hit Write, and it'll start Writing the LT+ to your drive.

Once it is done, it should say:

-------------
Authorized !
----------------
Restore verified OK !
Drive is a Slim Lite-On

Step 27.) Once it says that, that means it was written correctly.
So now, hit

Again.

Step 28.) Now it won't reload for you, you have to power off and on the drive and then it'll Pop-Up in JungleFlasher.

Step 29.) Now on the Bottom, you'll see 0x00 still. Hit that button, and this will Pop-Up:

Step 30.) Hit OK. This is going to lock your drive again.

Step 31.) Now hit

and your drive will Pop-Up as if you just plugged it in.

Just Outro it 2-5 Times before you continue to make sure it is actually working.

Step 32.) Now unplug the Power and SATA from your Drive.

Step 33.) Now get Flux Paste, and put it over the Copper Trace.

Step 34.) All you're going to do now, is solder over the trace that you cut. Not just part of it, I mean the ENTIRE thing.

Once done, it should look close to this:

Now you're done!

Put the PCB back into the Drive Case.

Screw in the small screw. Attach all ribbon cables.

And lastly, solder all the wires back into place. Again, it goes:
Black, Red, Yellow, Green, White.

and is also labeled on your Drive.

Enjoy LT+ 3.0 and Back-Ups! :first::banana:ign1:
​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

Okay so you have a Winbond LiteOn Drive!

Now to make this all easier on you, again since I'm such a nice person, I'm going to link
you to the template so you don't have to count pins

The Maximus Template (~$13.00)(~€15.00)

If you don't know what the Maximus Template is, it's basically a template that
clips onto the sides of your Slim DVD Drive, then you can mark where to drill.
If you want/have to buy a Maximus Template:
Click Here for USA

Okay, so if you're not using a Maximus Template, you're going to follow this picture:

All you're going to do, is connect the points on each side, and drill where they all come together.

So now that you know where to drill, lets get to the steps

Step 1.) Extract the .zip file.

Step 2.) Open JungleFlasher (LT+ 3.0), and Open the Program JungleFlasher

Step 3.) Head over to the DVDKey 32 Tab, and make sure your drive is detected.

Step 4.) Click on the

Button.

Step 5.) Hit No to the first Pop-Up

Step 6.) Then hit Yes to the second Pop-Up

Step 7.) Now, after you hit Yes to the second one, turn off and on the power to your drive.

Step 8.) After you turn it on, it'll ask you to save:
Key.bin, Serial.bin, Inquiry.bin, Identify.bin, and Dummy.bin

Step 9.) Then you're going to hit Yes to Auto-Load LT+

Now that you have everything saved, we're ready to start drilling! :hehe::hehe:

Step 10.) Now, you're going to go to the

Tab.

Now, before we go on, remove the SATA and the Power from the Drive.
Flip the Drive to the PCB, and REMOVE the Ribbon Cables. There will be 3. A Blue one, the big on in the middle, and a Red one.

After you do that, go ahead and put SATA and Power into the drive.

Step 11.) Now hit

and hit Yes to Both Pop-Ups.

Step 12.) Then when the second row of dots starts going,
turn off the power, then on the power to your drive.

Now as you can see, it says "Phat" even though we have a Slim. It's fine, don't worry about it

If it says 0x8C, your drive is locked.
If it says 0x00, skip to Step .

Step 13.) Now click the

button.

A Pop-Up will come up saying:
Spi Status Register is H/W protected
If you wish to resend clear Spi Status Register

Press Escape to cancel.​

Hit Yes.


Now it'll say

Sending Spi UnLock request to Port 0x0000

with dots going on the bottom. Now don't freak out thinking you have to rush to start drilling. The dots
will continue to go until you actually get it unlocked.

Okay so now is when we drill.

Take your time!!

It doesn't matter if you take 10 minutes, or 30 minutes. It will be done when it's done. It's easier to take it steady and slow, then go quick and mess it up

So if you bought the Template, line it up, and start drilling. If you don't feel like holding the template down, you can make a mark on where to drill, then
just drill. The Template comes with the screw bit, so use that. Use a very small bit of pressure.

If you didn't buy the template, then start counting the pins and make your lines on where to drill. I'm not sure of the exact screw bit you need to drill,
but if you can't find a screw bit that is very small, get a exacto knife. They seem to work just fine.

At this point, MAKE SURE YOUR SPEAKERS ARE ON!

Step 14.) Start Drilling. Just keep drilling just keep drilling just keep drilling.

Step 15.) Eventually, after a certain period of time, JungleFlasher will make a noise that sounds like this.

When you hear that noise, STOP!!

Your drive is now unlocked

The Status above, should say 0x03.

Step 16.) Now, hit

, turn off your drive, and turn it on.

Step 17.) Now hit

again, turn off and on your drive after hitting yes.
Now in the bottom right, it should say 0x00. If it does, the unlock was successful.

Step 18.) Go to Firmware Tool 32 and Make sure all your info is still there.

Step 19.) Go back to MTK Flash 32, and hit Write.

Step 20.) Now that it's written, hit

again. Turn on & off your power.

Step 21.) Now hit the 0x00 button, a warning will come up basically just telling you you're about to lock your drive.
Hit OK and it will kinda refresh. Then hit

.

**Note** I'd recommend hitting Outro/ATA Reset a few times to make sure it's all good.

Step 22.) Turn off the Connectivity Kit's Power, Unplug the SATA Cable, and the Power Cable from the Back of your DVD Drive. Put the Back Panel back onto the DVD Drive and Screw it in. Put the Xbox 360 Back together and Enjoy Playing Back-Ups. :first::banana:ign1:

**Extra Note** If you ever need to Unlock again, you can put a drop of rubbing alcohol in the hole you drilled.
If it doesn't unlock, take the drill bit and spin it a little bit until it unlocks.
​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

What's this!? Taking the easy way out I see?:tsk::tsk:

Team-Xectuer Replacement PCB (~$60.00)(~€35.00)

If you don't know what the Team-Xecuter Replacement PCB is, it's basically a
Solderless, Pre-Unlocked PCB. This is what you would use if you don't want to
do the Kamikaze hack, or the MXIC Hack.
If you want/have to buy a Xecuter PCB:
Click Here for Everywhere

Step 1.) Download the ZIP file.

Step 2.) Open JungleFlasher, and make sure that your ORIGINAL Drive is Detected.

Step 3.) Go to DVDKey32 and hit

To the First Pop-Up, hit No.
To the Second Pop-Up, hit Yes

Step 4.) Now, after you hit Yes to the second one, turn off and on the power to your drive.

Step 5.) After you turn it on, it'll ask you to save:
Key.bin, Serial.bin, Inquiry.bin, Identify.bin, and Dummy.bin

Step 6.) Then you're going to hit Yes to Auto-Load LT+

Now that you have everything saved, we're ready to swap out the PCBs.

Unplug your DVD Drive from your SATA and Power Connection.

Plug the SATA and Power into the REPLACEMENT PCB.
Don't worry, you don't need to put it into your DVD Drive Chassis yet.

Now go to

after you connect the PCB.

Then hit the 3 Dots on the top Left to refresh your drive:

Make sure on the bottom right, Phat is chosen and NOT Slim.

Now hit

. If it doesn't automatically go into Vendor mode, then just power off and on your Connectivity Kit.

After it is in Vendor Mode, you should have the EXACT same screen as mine:

If it is, then hit write. If all went well, you should get this:

[/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT][/SIZE][/LEFT]
[SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=3]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT][SIZE=2]
[LEFT]Flash Verification Test !
Reading Bank 0: ……………
Reading Bank 1: ……………
Reading Bank 2: ……………
Reading Bank 3: ……………
Write verified OK !

​

Now, that it was written correctly, on the bottom right, hit

. As soon as you hit it, a Pop-Up will come up.

Hit YES. This will lock the drive. It should now say

Now in JungleFlasher hit

.

Once you hit it, in the bottom Left, you should see your original Drive type.
(0225, 0401, etc..)

Now hit

about 2-3 More times to Confirm that the drive was written correctly.

If all is good, it will show your drive type, and just be like you first connected it to JF.

Now it is time to put it into the DVD Drive.

With the PCB, it came with a piece that looks like this:

This is the piece that they included so you do not have to solder.

It is completely up to you whether you want to solder. For this guide I'm doing the solderless guide.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are soldering, then unsolder the wires from your original PCB, and unsolder the wires from the Replacement PCB.

On the replacement PCB, there are TWO Sets of Wires. Unsolder the ones that are near the chip on the bottom right.

They're Black, Red, Yellow, Green, and White.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First things first, undo the Ribbon Cables.

There are three different ones. The two smaller ones, you just pull out on the latch, then pull the cable out.

For the big on connected to the Laser, you push up on the latch, then it will release the ribbon.

Next, there is one small screw on the top left. Unscrew it.

Then, lift the PCB from the casing. Be careful, the five cables are still attached.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you're soldering, ignore this step. You can just take the PCB out after you remove the screw.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Now, get scissors

Now, measure carefully. You're going to go from the Power in the Bottom Left of the drive over about 3-4 Inches and then cut.

The reason we cut is so that we can put the wires into the Solderless Piece that came with the PCB.
Be generous though, it's better to have more wire than less wire that won't reach.

Now, you can pull away the orignal PCB from the Drive Casing.

Now, place the the Team-Xecuter PCB in.

You'll notice the PCB has an end at the end of the five cables:

That end piece goes into the Solderless Piece that came with the PCB.

Attach the 3 Ribbon Cables that you removed before. Then also screw in the one screw you took out before.

Now take the Cables you cut, and take about 1-2 millimeters (mm) off of the end to allows the metal wire to show.

Take the Solderless Piece, and attach the coordinating colors to the correct place.
You may have to take a small flat head screw driver to loosen the grip (turn it left).

After the metal pieces are in, tighten the grip (turn right) with the flat head screw driver.
It's easier to do it 1 by 1.

Then you can stuff it all away in the DVD Casing, and you're all done!!!!

If you want a picture to reference, use this:

Spoiler

(Picture is Really Big, so I used a Spoiler)

Enjoy your backups!!!
​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

Okay so you have a Flashed Drive now .
(If you don't you shouldn't be looking at this yet.)

The next thing you're going to want to do is burn your games/backups. But, before we do that,
you have to have the correct burner and settings.

So as everyone knows, or should know, there is a new burner called the LiteOn IHAS Burner.
The burner comes in the models 124, 224, 324, 424, 524, and 624.

Now as everyone knows, IHAS Drives are Essential for burning your ISOs to a Disk.

So what you need to know is, IHAS Drives are ABSOLUTELY needed if you are burning XGD3 Games.

So lets say you don't know what type of game you have.
Okay, that's fine. If you go to ABGX360s Verified Page, and you can search your game.

All the way to the right, you'll see "Wave". Under it, it'll tell you what type of game you have.

For example: If you search for Modern Warfare 3, it'll say XGD3.
If you search for an old game, like Bioshock 2 it'll range from 1st to 15th.

What this means, is if you have any game that is in the 1st Wave, up until the 15th Wave, it's XGD2.
Anything that says XGD3 is obviously XGD3 haha.

So lets get to the flashing.

First and foremost you're going to need an IHAS Burner you're not going to find a
Revision B burner for less than 80 Dollars, so good luck.
________________________________________________________________________________

Okay so lets get to the steps of flashing.

Step 1.) Download the ZIP file

Step 2.) Extract it and you should get a folder called "X360ISO v1 No0b3rT".

Step 3.) Open the Folder Burner Max:

Step 4.) Now you'll see 3 Folders. Flash and EEProm, Memorex, and Verbatim.
What you're going to do is choose what kind of discs you plan on burning with.
I recommend Verbatim, but it's your choice.

Step 5.) After you choose your disc type, you'll see the 6 Types of Burners. Choose yours.

Step 6.) Now, you'll see a EXE File in there. Open it, and check if your drive has an update.
Usually, all Burners are already updated, but it's just to check.

Step 7.) Once your drive is updated, go back and open the Flash and EEProm Folder.

Step 8.) Now you'll see a EXE File called Flash_Utility. Open it.

Step 9.) Now hit

and save it somewhere safe. This is just incase you ever have to restore you drive.

Step 10.) Once it is saved, hit

and hit Yes to the Pop-Up:

Step 11.) Now a Window will come up asking you to select a file.
Bring it back to the Burner Max Folder, and select the Disc Type you will be using.
Then go into your Drive Type, and select the second file. NOT THE EXE.

Step 12.) Once you select your file, hit Yes to the Pop-Up:

Then it will start writing to your drive.

Step 13.) Once it is all done, it will say "FLASH Write Complete". So now your IHAS is flashed with Burner Max .

Step 14.) Hit Exit, and continue to the Burning Guide.
​

 

[Noobert]

Spoiler

Now that you flashed your IHAS Burner, we are going to start burning your games

____________________________

First off, we need 2 Programs:

First one is Called ABGX360.
(Click the Icon)

install a Program called ImgBurn.
(Click the Icon)

____________________________

Lets start with ABGX360.

ABGX360 is a program that "stealth" patches your ISOs in order for them to be played online safely.
I've never burned a game without running it through ABGX first.

After you download, and install ABGX360, it won't be on your desktop.
You have to go to Start, All Programs, and find ABGX360.

Once you find it, Right Click, Send To, Desktop (Create Shortcut).
Now that it's on your desktop, open it.

Before you do anything, you'll have to fix ABGX360.
You can follow the guide here:
https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/how-to-fix-abgx360.1217527/

Once it Opens, you'll be on the Welcome tab.
Go over to the Option Tab, and Copy my settings EXACTLY:
​

Once you copy them, go to Manually Patch or Extract Files:

Next go to the AutoFix tab:

Finally, go to the Misc tab.

For the region code, hit Select and choose where you're from.
Same for the Preferred Language.

Now, hit File, Save Settings. This way you don't have to do this every time you load ABGX:

Now after you save your settings, hit the icon all the way to the right

.

After you hit it, choose your ISO that you downloaded and want to burn.

Now that your ISO is Selected, hit Launch:

Now a CMD Window will Pop-Up. Let it check the ISO until it says 100 at the bottom.

You're going to make sure that the entire CMD Window is Green.
No Blues, No Yellows, and definitively No Reds.

You may have to run it through ABGX 2-3 Times. I always do it twice just to be sure.
If there are any Yellows about the SplitVid it's fine.
Yellows are okay to burn with sometimes. Just ask a few times, and you'll understand after a bit.

So once your ISO looks like this:

You can hit any key to Exit, and then Exit ABGX360.

Now we go to IMGBurn.

_______________________________________________

After you download, and Install ImgBurn, it will Automatically Open.

When it Opens, choose the top left box.

Once you're in there, go to Tools/Settings:

Once you're in your settings, go to the

Tab.

All you're going to do is Check Perform OPC Before Write, and Uncheck Enable Burn Proof:

Next, go to the IO Tab and hit Page 2.

Once in Page 2, fill the Buffer to 512MB:

Once you do that, you can hit Okay and your settings will be saved.

Now, on the bottom right of image burn, go to the gear box with the check:

Now, go to the

Tab.

Now, at the top, make sure your IHAS Burner is showing:

Now you're going to hit the drop down box and select Force HyperTuning:

Once you select it, on the bottom hit the drop down box, and select Disabled:

After you select Disabled, hit

Now go to Online HyperTuning and OverSpeed and Disable them the same way:

Next, go to SmartBurn and ENABLE it!

Lastly, go to Clear OPC History, hit Clear, then hit change:

Then hit OK in the bottom right.

Now, hit the Folder with the Magnifying glass on the top:

Once the window opens, CHOOSE YOUR .DVD NOT ISO.

Now, make sure your write Speed is 2.4, and that you Uncheck Verify (Unless you feel like waiting twice as long)

Now you can hit Write, and wait for your disc to finish

That's about it

If your game doesn't burn successfully, try going online and finding different Lite-On Settings
for the IHAS Burner. Because I did this with Verbatims, so your discs may be different.

Enjoy!!!
​

________________________________________________________________________________

Spoiler

We are going to start burning your games
____________________________

First off, we need 2 Programs:

First one is Called ABGX360.
(Click the Icon)

install a Program called ImgBurn.
(Click the Icon)

____________________________

Lets start with ABGX360.

ABGX360 is a program that "stealth" patches your ISOs in order for them to be played online safely.
I've never burned a game without running it through ABGX first.

After you download, and install ABGX360, it won't be on your desktop.
You have to go to Start, All Programs, and find ABGX360.

Once you find it, Right Click, Send To, Desktop (Create Shortcut).
Now that it's on your desktop, open it.

Once it Opens, you'll be on the Welcome tab.
Go over to the Option Tab, and Copy my settings EXACTLY:
​

Once you copy them, go to Manually Patch or Extract Files:

Next go to the AutoFix tab:

Finally, go to the Misc tab.

For the region code, hit Select and choose where you're from.
Same for the Preferred Language.

Now, hit File, Save Settings. This way you don't have to do this every time you load ABGX:

Now after you save your settings, hit the icon all the way to the right

.

After you hit it, choose your ISO that you downloaded and want to burn.

Now that your ISO is Selected, hit Launch:

Now a CMD Window will Pop-Up. Let it check the ISO until it says 100 at the bottom.

You're going to make sure that the entire CMD Window is Green.
No Blues, No Yellows, and definitively No Reds.

You may have to run it through ABGX 2-3 Times. I always do it twice just to be sure.
If there are any Yellows about the SplitVid it's fine.
Yellows are okay to burn with sometimes. Just ask a few times, and you'll understand after a bit.

So once your ISO looks like this:

You can hit any key to Exit, and then Exit ABGX360.

Now we go to IMGBurn.

_______________________________________________

After you download, and Install ImgBurn, it will Automatically Open.

When it Opens, choose the top left box.

Once you're in there, go to Tools/Settings:

Once you're in your settings, go to the

Tab.

All you're going to do is Check Perform OPC Before Write, and Uncheck Enable Burn Proof:

Next, go to the IO Tab and hit Page 2.

Once in Page 2, fill the Buffer to 512MB:

​

If you have a LiteOn Burner (IHAS A/B/C/D) Then Click this Spoiler
If you don't have one, then skip over it
​

Spoiler

Once you do that, you can hit Okay and your settings will be saved.

Now, on the bottom right of image burn, go to the gear box with the check:

Now, go to the

Tab.

Now, at the top, make sure your IHAS Burner is showing:

Now you're going to hit the drop down box and select Force HyperTuning:

Once you select it, on the bottom hit the drop down box, and select Disabled:

After you select Disabled, hit

Now go to Online HyperTuning and OverSpeed and Disable them the same way:

Next, go to SmartBurn and ENABLE it!

Lastly, go to Clear OPC History, hit Clear, then hit change:

Then hit OK in the bottom right.​

​

Now, hit the Folder with the Magnifying glass on the top:

Once the window opens, CHOOSE YOUR .DVD NOT ISO.

Now, make sure your write Speed is 2.4, and that you Uncheck Verify (Unless you feel like waiting twice as long)

Now it's time for the PayLoad Tool

As you can see, with the disc in the drive, it isn't able to write 8.7 Gigs to the Disc

So if you downloaded the file at the top, you'll have the PayLoad tool if you don't then download the updated one.
(I Updated it January 8th 2013)

Here's the List of Incompatible Drives (Thanks to CyberneticYouth)

Spoiler

PHILIPS
*DVD8801 4D28

LG
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH22NS50 TN03
*HL-DT-ST BDDVDRW-GGC-H20L1.03
*HL-DT-ST DVD+-RW GSA-H31LW616
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH20NS10 EL01
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT51N SB02
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GT32N
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GMA-4082N
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GH15F
*HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-E10N
*HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GSA-E20N1.03
*HL-DT-ST DVDRW GA32N KE06


PIONEER
*DVD-RW DVR-212
*DVD-RW DVR-112D
*DVD-RW DVR-KD08L


SONY
*Optiarc BD-5300S


TSSTcorp
*DVD+-RW TS-T633CD800
*CD/DVDW SH-S182DSB07
*CDRWDVD TS-H493BD200
*TS-L633L 0400
*TS-L633L SC01


MAT****A
*DVD-RAM UJ-860H
*DVD-RAM UJ8A2AS
*DVD-RAM UJ-846S F200
*DVD-RAM UJ880AS 1.50
*BD-CMB UJ160


*Slimtype DVD A DS8A1H

So Open the Tool and Select your Drive letter at the top

Now hit

and you should get this message:

BurnerMAX Payload Tool - Version: 0.15

Found 2 CD/DVD drives D: F:

DVD DL +R detected
BurnerMAX not enabled, YET !
BurnerMAX not enabled, YET !
Scanning: F:\ [ATAPI   iHAS124   B     AL0S]
CDB failed
L0:  0x86DD
L0:  0x89D8
L1:  0x86D9
L1:  0x86E9
L1:  0x881D
Patching: ...............
BurnerMAX IS enabled !
Free Space: 8,738,897,920 bytes

Now to Back into IMGBurn, and Refresh your DVD Drive

Then, as you can see, it now say 8.7 Gigs available to burn.

Now you can hit Write, and wait for your disc to finish

That's about it

Please Note, you HAVE to do this Every time you want to burn a game.

If your game doesn't burn successfully, try going online and finding different Lite-On Settings
for the IHAS Burner. Because I did this with Memorexs, so your discs may be different.

Enjoy!!!
​

________________________________________________________________________________

I hope this guide helped whoever needed it, and if you need anymore help,
feel free to get in touch with a Private Message.​

Thanks for Reading

​

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

Does flashing allow you to run ISOs from an USB like a XK3Y does?

 

[Noobert]

Does flashing allow you to run ISOs from an USB like a XK3Y does?

Flashing allows you to Burn an ISO to a Dual Layer DVD R and run it on your Xbox.

 

[Red]

Does flashing allow you to run ISOs from an USB like a XK3Y does?

No it does not, it allows you to run ISOs from dual layer disks. In other words if you want a new game you will have to buy more disks and go through the process of patching it and overburning the game each time(it take about 10 minutes)

 

[Atlas]

Noobert , all I can say is: . Red , thank you for getting the situation handled with this. If it were not for this thread (read it off-site before) I would barely understand anything about flashing.

Inb4 Sticky.

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

No it does not, it allows you to run ISOs from dual layer disks. In other words if you want a new game you will have to buy more disks and go through the process of patching it and overburning the game each time(it take about 10 minutes)

Flashing allows you to Burn an ISO to a Dual Layer DVD R and run it on your Xbox.

Oh okay thank you guys! Which one would yall prefer {flashing or getting a XK3Y}? All I want is to just be able to play Xbox games for free.

 

[Noobert]

Oh okay thank you guys! Which one would yall prefer {flashing or getting a XK3Y}? All I want is to just be able to play Xbox games for free.

I started with flashing, and switched to XK3Y, just because it saves you more money than flashing lol

 

[Red]

Oh okay thank you guys! Which one would yall prefer {flashing or getting a XK3Y}? All I want is to just be able to play Xbox games for free.

I would go with an xK3Y if I where you, I have only used a flashed console before, but it's not very cost effective to keep buying dual layers, plus eventually you will need to get a binder or something to hold them all

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

I would go with an xK3Y if I where you, I have only used a flashed console before, but it's not very cost effective to keep buying dual layers, plus eventually you will need to get a binder or something to hold them all

I started with flashing, and switched to XK3Y, just because it saves you more money than flashing lol

Alright, thank you so much guys for your time! Im probably gonna go with the XK3Y then since both of yall reccomended it. Thanks again for the help (as yall cant tell by already, im a really big newb when it comes to this kinda stuff). EDIT: Oh yeah I forgot to mention, great thread BTW!

 

[Noobert]

Alright, thank you so much guys for your time! Im probably gonna go with the XK3Y then since both of yall reccomended it. Thanks again for the help (as yall cant tell by already, im a really big newb when it comes to this kinda stuff).

Quick question before ya make up your mind, do you know what type of drive you have?

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

Quick question before ya make up your mind, do you know what type of drive you have?

No i do not. How can i figure that out exactly?

 

[Noobert]

No i do not. How can i figure that out exactly?

Do you got a Phat or a Slim Xbox?

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

Do you got a Phat or a Slim Xbox?

A phat. Its the white one to be particular!

 

[Noobert]

A phat. Its the white one to be particular!

Cool

Follow this picture and let me know if it's a Samsung, BenQ, Hitachi, or LiteOn.

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

Cool

Follow this picture and let me know if it's a Samsung, BenQ, Hitachi, or LiteOn.

For some reason, the wires were towards the back, unlike the images, so I had to use a flashlight to view them. The wires were yellow, so therefore, it is LiteOn.

 

[Noobert]

For some reason, the wires were towards the back, unlike the images, so I had to use a flashlight to view them. The wires were yellow, so therefore, it is LiteOn.

Alrighty! So before you go out and buy an XK3Y, just know, you have to obtain your DVD Key in order for the XK3Y to work. Sooo since you have a LiteOn, you pretty much... have to flash it in order to get your DVD Key.

You'd have to hook it up to your computer, and get a Probe, and read the key off.

Just wanted to let you know before you went and spent 100$ lol.

 

[Ix lVl 3 R K xI]

Alrighty! So before you go out and buy an XK3Y, just know, you have to obtain your DVD Key in order for the XK3Y to work. Sooo since you have a LiteOn, you pretty much... have to flash it in order to get your DVD Key.

You'd have to hook it up to your computer, and get a Probe, and read the key off.

Just wanted to let you know before you went and spent 100$ lol.

Alright thanks man! Ill figure out how to get my DVD Key elsewhere since you`ve already helped me enough. Thanks again m8