oblivioncth
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Xbox 360 Ultimate Exploit Guide
(Semi-Noob Friendly)
By: oblivioncth
Current Guide Status:(Semi-Noob Friendly)
By: oblivioncth
Mostly up to date. I still need to add the points for Corona V5s and V6s and integrate the Slim Proto pictures instead of just linking to the TX forums but otherwise everything here is accurate.
I have created this tutorial based on questions I frequently see and parts of guides that I have found tend to be unclear or outdated. I know there are many guides that cover the content in this thread but I thought it was about time to make another super guide that covered many things. Also, what I mean by "Semi-Noob Friendly" is that I have included every step and have tried to make it comprehensive, but I have not dumb-ed it down to the lowest level possible and have not included every picture possible. I included any picture that is even partially important but not pictures of steps that aren't really needed. You will need some basic skill above just commonsense, and a little bit of intuition in order to follow this.
Each base hack method, program, or other form of work in this tutorial is not mine and credit goes to their respective creators (such as Team-Xecuter, Boxxdr, Team XeBuild, OggyUK, etc.). I have only explained to you why/how to do these methods, and added my own touch/explanation to them so that you could get the most out of them.
There are too many bits and pieces missing from many tutorials and specifics for certain setups (like zephyr consoles) that are not covered. This tutorial is an attempt to bring it all together, clear up confusion, and show every reasonable (some just are old, not worth it, or pointless) option possible. It covers everything you need to know about both exploits, shows you which one is right for you, and walks you through each step for how to do them (If you need something specific like using the console without the DVD drive, or ROL board then this is not for you, however you can use this as a base and then at any point do things differently based on your needs).
I will try to update this thread as things change and as time moves forward. Also you may feel some pictures are too small for you to see very small pieces, so in case you didn't know you can click the pictures to make them their full size, and then again to reduce them.
Spoilers are nice but I want this to be a mostly full in-depth guide that isn't cluttered so I kept the spoilers as low as I could. I have the ones I have to keep clean, so expand the sections that only apply to you.
Right now this tutorial is at dash 16747 (meaning the custom freeboot dash that you can update to once the console is exploited. An older dash might still needed to exploit the console in the first place. Refer to section 4 for this) which is the most recent dash.
This tutorial is going to be broken down into steps as follows:
- What is the point of exploiting your console, and is it safe?
- Do you have the skills/tools/materials to exploit your console?
- Explanation of the hack methods, and their pros/cons
- NAND dumping methods
- Type of mod
- JTAG
- RGH
- Determining which method to use
- Modding tutorial for each method:
- QSB or no QSB?
- NAND dumping methods
- Type of mod
- JTAG
- RGH
- R-JTAG
- Xell
- While your in there...
- Software Setup
- XEXmenu
- Freestyle dash
- Dashlaunch
- XBOX1 Emulator
- Afterwards
Part 1: What is the point of exploiting your console, and is it safe?
Have you ever seen those crazy YouTube videos with people modding games like Halo, COD, and Just Cause 2 in ways you never thought was possible? Or do you want to go retro and play some old school games from your childhood or from before your time? Exploiting your Xbox 360 in this fashion will allow you to do things just like this. Exploiting your console involves making physical modifications to its' internal hardware in order to circumvent Microsoft's security system. This must be done because by default Microsoft has limited what code can be run on Xbox's to only run programs that are signed digitally by them and their partners. This was done for preventing piracy, online cheating, copyright infringement, avoiding fees (if you want to make a game for Xbox you have to pay fees to Microsoft, and this goes for all other companies), and other issues. The problem is that very fun and not so bad things can be done on a console that is not limited by a security system, but Microsoft and other console makers don't want to take the risk of the bad things happening. This is why console hackers exist, and this is why things are reversed engineered; so that you the end user can enjoy your devices to their maximum potential.
This is the list of all the things you can do with a JTAG/RGH exploited xbox:
*As I cannot remember ever single thing this list is somewhat incomplete and I will add to it as I remember or find new things that can be done
- Play almost any Xbox 360, original Xbox, or arcade game for free (though I won't tell you how to do this)
- Get any DLC for free (though I won't tell you how to do this)
- Use custom dashboards with many features over the original and customize their look
- Use any sized hard drive in the hard drive port OR any sized external hard drive through USB (I HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING A LAPTOP DRIVE INSTEAD OF AN EXTERNAL USB BECAUSE IT MAKES THINGS EASIER, AS YOU CANNOT PUT DLC, ARCADE GAMES, OR ANYTHING ELSE THAT GOES IN THE "CONTENT" FOLDER ON AN EXTERNAL USB DRIVE! Though you can format part of an external USB drive as an Xbox MU but that is inefficient)
- Mod many games in ways that can't be done on a retail with save game or other mods
- Use custom apps created by the community to play movies, music, etc.
- Play custom games made by the community that aren't available on a retail console
- Take screenshots or video of your console without a capture card
- Make your console run the same software (or a hybrid of) as development kits
- Rip games to your hard drive and never need the discs
- Play ANY original Xbox game instead of being limited by the retail emulator (though some games don't run very well)
- Run linux on your xbox
- Play a variety of emulators such as: MAME, Atari LYNX, SNES, NES, N64, Dreamcast, Sega Genesis, Intellivsion, Colecovison, DosBox, PS1, ScummVM, Amiga, NeoGeo, Gameboy, Gameboy Color, Gameboy Advance, and PCengine
- Recover your DVD key
- (RGH ONLY) Use a DemoN to do a dual NAND setup and have two consoles in one. One that can go on LIVE like a stock console, and one that is exploited and can do all of the above (DOESN"T WORK ON CORONA V2's/V4's)
On the other hand is the danger of breaking your console. It is in a sense hard to do so, but in another it is easy. If you do not have the proper skills to do these modifications you will most likely break your console. If you do not properly follow instructions you will most likely break your console. If you are not careful with your expensive merchandise you will most likely break your console. If you are horribly unlucky your console can also break. I mention that last part because there are some consoles that are so warped due to Microsoft's poor original design (phat consoles) that the simple action of disassembling your console can break it. You can get around this with even some of the weakest consoles by being very careful, but there are some that are just going to break when you open them and get extremely unlucky. AGAIN, the chance is very small but note it is a possibility. As long as you are careful and follow instructions you should be fine.
Part 2: Do you have the skills/tools/materials to exploit your console?
If you are experienced with soldering and have a wide array of tools then you can stop right here: you are good to go. If not keep reading. In order to make these modifications you need to be decent at soldering and have a general mechanical sense like for dissembling the console and remembering where everything goes. It is not particularly hard and as a soldering job is arguably a 4-5/10 difficulty but if you have very little or zero experience it could still be hard for you. There are a few points that are decently small and require precision and the overall project requires accuracy as well, so make sure you are not in over your head. I would not attempt this if you have no soldering experience (though I would be a hypocrite if I told you I did the same
as my 2nd JTAG was my first time soldering), but if you are one of those people that picks things up quickly, are a tech-y person, and you understand the risks, then go for it if you want. If you really want to do this but feel too nervous about your skills, practice on some old PCB boards (things you don't care about like old VCR's, etc.) by just soldering wires in random places. It also helps to have experience using tools like pliers, and a multimeter, and having experience stripping wires (which you should have if your experienced in soldering).Simply, understand the risks involved and evaluate yourself before moving forward.
Here's my guide to soldering!
These are the tools you will need to do these exploits:
- A Soldering iron (preferably one that isn't complete crap and has a good tip)
- Solder (with rosin core)
- Solder Sucker/De-soldering Braid (if you screw up or need to change something, which is highly possible)
- Torx 10 and 8 screwdriver
- Required: Flat head screwdriver (pretty small with the head being about a little less than a cm)
- Highly Recommended: A case opening tool like this (you don't need it but if you have extra cash it helps)
- Highly Recommended: Flux (flux pens are nice, also absolutely needed if you don't have rosin core solder)
- Highly Recommended: Multi-meter
- Highly Recommended: Pliers (needle nose)
- Highly Recommended: Box cutter knife/Exacto knife
- Highly Recommended: Wire strippers (you can use a knife or scissors if you don't have any)
- Highly Recommended: Hot glue gun
- Highly Recommended: A lighter/Heat-gun (if your going to use heat-shrink)
- A Windows (XP and higher) computer
*Materials in black are absolutely required, materials in blue are highly recommended, and specific materials need for each method will be listed under their respective section
- Required: Some form of wire (kynar is best and Radio Shacks "hook-up wire" isn't bad, also it is possible to have a combination of a setup that requires no extra wire but it is good to have just in case you mess up a wire; around 22-30 AWG is good)
- Recommended: Heat-shrink/Electrical Tape (helps keep things clean)
- Recommended: Isopropyl alcohol (helps to clean off points on the motherboard)
- Recommended: Q-tips (for using with the alcohol)
- Recommended: Thermal Paste (if you remove the heatsink. Arctic Silver is a good buy. Here is how to apply it.
Part 3: Explanation of the hack methods, and their pros/cons
*You may notice Step 0 and Step 3 have no explanations. This is simply because they are just parts you have to do and need no explanation.
Each of the hack methods effectively achieve the same results but have a few differences in their preparation and execution. There are two parts to each hack: One is dumping your NAND which is basically making a copy of your Xbox's OS/BIOS on your computer, and two is the actual hack itself that circumvents the security system. The methods of dumping your NAND are the same with both the RGH/JTAG/R-JTAG hack methods so they will be covered first.
*Pros are in blue, cons are in red
Step1: NAND dumping methods
There are four ways to dump your NAND. The LPT method, the USB-SPI method (there are a few devices that are of this type but for this tutorial I be covering Team Xecuters NAND-X and J-R Programmer as they are the best out there), the NAND R/W kit for 4GB Coronas only, and the DemoN for those who are installing it. If you are doing a dual NAND setup and installing the DemoN it has its own way to read/write to the NAND so you will be using that, and if you have a Corona V2/V4 you HAVE to use the Corona R/W KIT (SD Card Method). So if you don't have a Corona V2/V4, and aren't using a DemoN, here is the comparison.
-LPT Method:
- Cheap: the materials only cost around 7 dollars
- Involves soldering 7 wires to the Xbox and an LPT (the old purple printer port) plug with some resistors and a diode in between
- Slow: Takes at least 30min to read your NAND AND is usually longer due to your OS configuration AND can be much more depending on your console
- Takes some more time because you have to make it (you can buy one though if you want)
- Expensive: Costs around 40 dollars (NAND-X)/20 dollars (J-R Programmer)
- Involves soldering a few wires/pins (7) into just the Xbox. The other end plugs into the device (and if your doing the RGH method and get the QSB's- you'll see what those are later- then you don't even have to solder, as it just plugs in on both sides)
- Fast: Takes at least 5 minutes to read your NAND and can be a bit longer depending on your console
- If you plan to do more than just one console it is worth the investment
JTAG
- Easier to install, only requires 3 wires and a diode
- Cheap: Only cost is a diode, and wires.
- Normal boot times
- Can only be done on phats (more likely to RROD) with the dashboard 7371 or earlier
- Cannot run Xecuter Fusion (a custom NAND that is a hybrid of a dev NAND and retail NAND, but there are alternatives)
- Harder to install, requires a chip and 6-7 wires, also some smaller points
- Expensive: Chip with wires costs around 30 dollars, and addons for certain setups that can add up to much more
- Longer boot times: Best being around 5 seconds with average being around 15-30 seconds and worst being 1-2 minutes
- Can be done on phats (but better to use R-JTAG) or slims (very unlikely to RROD) with any dashboard
- Can run Xecuter Fusion
- Can use DemoN to do a dual NAND setup (about an extra 50-60 dollars) (DOESN'T WORK ON CORONA V2's/V4's)
- Harder to install, requires a chip and 6-7 wires, also some smaller points
- Expensive: Chip with wires costs around 35 dollars, and addons for certain setups that can add up to much more
- Decent Boot Times: On average they are around 10 seconds, sometimes instant boot
- Can only be used on phats of any dash version
- Can run Xecuter Fusion
- Can use DemoN to do a dual NAND setup (about an extra 50-60 dollars) (DOESN'T WORK ON CORONA V2's/V4's)
Part 4: Determining which method to use
Now that you understand the differences between the methods, it is time to determine which one is right for you. The general rule of thumb is that if you can get your hands on a slim then RGH it as it will last you much longer. If you can only get a phat and it is above 7371 then your only choice is to RGH/R-JTAG it. If you have a phat that is at 7371 you have the choice of JTAG'ing or RGH'ing/R-JTAG'ing it, but due to the cons of the RGH/R-TAG without the benefit of it being a slim it makes more sense to JTAG it.
Also what is important is the motherboard type. When it comes to JTAG'ing every motherboard type is exploitable (as long as it has the right dash and is a phat) but each motherboards life span average is not the same. So if you are able to choose the type do so in this order: Jasper, Falcon, Opus, Zephyr, Xenon (listed in order of decreasing average life span). When it comes to RGH'ing/R-JTAG'ing every motherboard type is exploitable except for Xenon's (unless you just want your DVD key, because the boot time for Xenon's are so long it is impractical for everyday use). The average lifespan decrease still applies so if you can choose do so in this order: Trinity/Corona (both are the same in terms of life span and are slims), Jasper (phat), Falcon (phat), Opus (phat), Zephyr (phat), Xenon (phat).
Also note that if your on exactly 7371 there is a chance your CB was already patched which means it is not exploitable, and the only way to know for sure is to dump your NAND (this will be discussed after you have dumped your NAND)
Additionally when it comes to the RGH exploit there are actually two versions. RGH1 has better boot times but it stopped working after dash 14699 and only works on phat consoles (also some refurbs on this dash had their CB patched so that they cannot use RGH1 either). If you are on dash 14699 exactly you will have to check under the RGH section to see if your CB was patched and whether you can use the RGH1 wiring or not. Also, Zephyrs suck on both the RGH1 and 2 wiring so the best bet is to just R-JTAG them.
If you are buying a JTAG'able/RGH'able/R-JTAG'able then use the above to help you choose. If you just have a console sitting around or a friend has a spare etc., use the following to check if it is exploitable:
Check your motherboard revision with this:
If you have a slim and it is 10.83A and made before August 2011, you have a Trinity, and if it is 9.86A and made in or after August 2011 you have a Corona. There are reportedly some Trinitys that are 9.86A so use the date as a double check (even if it is 9.86A if it was before Aug 2011 it is a Trinity). If you have a Corona and it was made in-between August 2011 and June 2012 and is the 250GB model it is a V1, and if it is a 4GB model it is a V2. If it was made in-between July 2012 and now and is the 250GB it is a V3, and if it is a 4GB model it is a V4. The NAND dumping processes on V2s/V4s is a little more complicated.
Also if you have a Jasper you need to determine what its internal memory is. If you have no internal memory unit (as in when you go to memory there is no MU with no hard drive or external MU plugged in) then you have a normal Jasper. But if you have a MU that is close to 256MBs when empty then you have a Jasper BB 256MB, and if your MU is close to 512MBs when empty than you have a Jasper BB 512MB.
Slim Identification Double Check:
The above dates from slims are about 95% reliable and have been estimated based on tons of users MFG date submissions. However, the only way to be 100% sure what kind of console you have is to open it and look at the motherboard since the power cable plugs are the same for all of them. So if you want to do so now or come back and check this once you know what you have to buy, check the spoiler for pictures of the slim motherboards
Trinity:
The Trinity has a HANA chip that was removed on all Coronas. If yours has a HANA chip it is definitely a Trinity
Corona:
Look at the picture and focus on the "1" point. Use the 4 pictures and descriptions bellow the main picture to determine which version Corona you have
The Trinity has a HANA chip that was removed on all Coronas. If yours has a HANA chip it is definitely a Trinity
Corona:
Look at the picture and focus on the "1" point. Use the 4 pictures and descriptions bellow the main picture to determine which version Corona you have
Then use this flow chart to determine which method to use:
Remember from this your motherboard type, dash version, and what exploit you are to use.
Download J-runner - [Demon Drivers | Requires .NET Framework 4] extract it to your desktop as a folder named "J-Runner" (so that the folder hierarchy is J-Runner/JRunner.exe). It is an excellent app provided by Team J-Runner that combines functions of many programs into one. We will be using it many times.
ALSO, if you have a phat and are planning on getting a DemoN for it you will have to R-JTAG regardless of what the chart says if you want to be able to use LIVE on the stock NAND because that requires at least dash 14719. If you don't plan on using LIVE, you can use the RGH1 wiring with the DemoN. So if you plan to go online with your DemoN go update your console to 14719 now. DON'T try to update over LIVE, use the [Click here to view this link].
If you are planning to RGH a Xenon to recover a DVD key it will work but take forever. I seriously suggest you wait for the R-JTAG hack for Xenons to be released. If you still want to do it though, just use the RGH1 wiring if you are at or bellow dash 14699 and the RGH2 wiring if you are above that.
If you find that you need to use the R-JTAG method, there is a kit that contains everything you will need (Chip, QSBs, and J-R Programmer) and will save you a few bucks so I recommend getting it: *link dead - will try to find a replacement*
Part 5: Modding tutorial for each method
OK! So this is the part where you see what exactly you need for your methods and when you actually get down to work. You will need to open your console at this point, which you can see how to do at these places:
Phat
Slim
When removing your motherboard don't grab it by the heatsinks!
NOTE! I will not be telling you how to ACTUALLY solder the points as you should already know how to do that! Just remember to be patient but quick, keep it clean, use flux where needed, etc.
First I will show you how to dump your NAND, and then I will show you how to install the exploit you need.
Step 0: QSB or no QSB?
Note that if the RGH is your exploit you need to decide now whether you want to buy the QSBs for your console, and if you want the QSBs you also need to do the NAND-X/J-R Programmer dump method as there isn't much reason to get the QSB's without the NAND-X/J-R Programmer . QSBs are a little board that goes on your console that makes wiring a little easier and reading your NAND a little easier, but they cost some money (around 10 bucks each). If you have a Corona V2/V4 you NEED the QSB for it, if you are using the R-JTAG hack you NEED the QSBs for the console (the starter and ultimate kit comes with them though), and if you have a Xenon there are no QSBs for you. Also, if you are getting a QSB for your console make sure it is the V3 one (The Corona V2/V4 QSB latest is V4)! (the links I provide are only examples, you don't need to buy them there, and this goes for future product links).
For RGH, skip if JTAG/R-JTAG is your method
QSB V3s for phat (except Xenon) (there are 2 pieces but it comes with both)
RGH QSB V3 for Trinity: http://www.vgcrepairs.biz/xilink-dev-tools/adapters/trinity-qsb-v3?cPath=124_2_86
*There is a POST QSB for Trinitys (a 2nd QSB that goes on the bottom) but it doesn't really make a big difference so I will not talk about it
(CR3 Lite Only!) QSB V3 for Corona V1/V3: http://www.vgcrepairs.biz/xilink-dev-tools/adapters/jrp-nandx-cr-corona-qsb-v3 (see the upcoming note about the Coolrunner Rev C)
QSB V3 for Corona V2/V4: http://www.ozmodchips.com/corona-4gb-nand-reader-from-team-x-p-445.html AND http://www.modsupplier.com/catalog/xecuter-corona-4gb-rw-qsb-v4-p-1074.html (They aren't selling the new ones in a kit yet so you have to buy the old one to get the cable. You only need the 2nd one if you have a V4 and want it to fit perfectly)
NOTE: If you are getting a Coolrunner Rev C because you cannot find a CR3 Lite or do not want one you will have to get the Crystal QSB since it doesn't come with the Rev C like it does on the CR3 Lite. ALSO if you are using a Rev C and have a corona v2/v4 you will need to install BOTH QSBs (The NAND R/W kit and the one with the Crystal). Under the RGH section I have a link to a Rev C bundle that comes with the Crystal QSB and more for just an extra 3 dollars. I highly recommend you get that, but here is the link for just the QSB with the Crystal: http://www.xconsoles.com/products/corona-qsb-cr-upgrade.html
The QSBs install like this (ignore wires/white arrows and only focus how the QSBs are soldered to the motherboard):
Phats:
-QSB 1
-QSB 2
Trinity:
Corona V1/V3 (the Crystal one looks a little different but installs the same):
Corona V2/V4 (this is on the bottom, pictures show a V4 but the spot is the same for V2s):
I know these pictures aren't the greatest but that is all there is on the net. Just remember that anywhere there is a solder pad that is on the edge of a QSB something most-likely needs to be soldered to it. The solder pads that are not on the edges are not used until later.
RGH QSB V3 for Trinity: http://www.vgcrepairs.biz/xilink-dev-tools/adapters/trinity-qsb-v3?cPath=124_2_86
*There is a POST QSB for Trinitys (a 2nd QSB that goes on the bottom) but it doesn't really make a big difference so I will not talk about it
(CR3 Lite Only!) QSB V3 for Corona V1/V3: http://www.vgcrepairs.biz/xilink-dev-tools/adapters/jrp-nandx-cr-corona-qsb-v3 (see the upcoming note about the Coolrunner Rev C)
QSB V3 for Corona V2/V4: http://www.ozmodchips.com/corona-4gb-nand-reader-from-team-x-p-445.html AND http://www.modsupplier.com/catalog/xecuter-corona-4gb-rw-qsb-v4-p-1074.html (They aren't selling the new ones in a kit yet so you have to buy the old one to get the cable. You only need the 2nd one if you have a V4 and want it to fit perfectly)
NOTE: If you are getting a Coolrunner Rev C because you cannot find a CR3 Lite or do not want one you will have to get the Crystal QSB since it doesn't come with the Rev C like it does on the CR3 Lite. ALSO if you are using a Rev C and have a corona v2/v4 you will need to install BOTH QSBs (The NAND R/W kit and the one with the Crystal). Under the RGH section I have a link to a Rev C bundle that comes with the Crystal QSB and more for just an extra 3 dollars. I highly recommend you get that, but here is the link for just the QSB with the Crystal: http://www.xconsoles.com/products/corona-qsb-cr-upgrade.html
The QSBs install like this (ignore wires/white arrows and only focus how the QSBs are soldered to the motherboard):
Phats:
-QSB 1
-QSB 2
Trinity:
Corona V1/V3 (the Crystal one looks a little different but installs the same):
Corona V2/V4 (this is on the bottom, pictures show a V4 but the spot is the same for V2s):
I know these pictures aren't the greatest but that is all there is on the net. Just remember that anywhere there is a solder pad that is on the edge of a QSB something most-likely needs to be soldered to it. The solder pads that are not on the edges are not used until later.
Step 1: NAND dumping methods
The hope is to leave this section with a Orig.bin image.
First look at these pictures, because in each method (LPT, NAND-X, and J-R Programmer only; Corona R/W Kit and DemoN don't use these pictures and use their own which you will find under their sections) I will reference points to solder to on the board and these are those points. For each point I will refer to them by color. The colors are the same for both each so just apply it to whether you have a phat or a slim. If you have a Corona V2 the QSB is how you are going to read your NAND so that should have already be installed, and you can ignore these pictures. Additionally, if you have a Corona V3 or V4 you will need to bridge some points so make sure you visit that section first.
If within this part you see your NAND has bad blocks, don't worry as J-Runner remaps them for you!
Resistor Bridging (for Corona V3s/V4s):
*SKIP THIS IF YOU DON'T HAVE A CORONA V3/V4.
You need to bridge point R2C10 if you have a V3, and points R2C6/R2C7 if you have a V3 or V4 (if the resistors are missing there):
This is the cheapest but longest method. You are going to need the following:
Then you are going to solder a wire from each of the points/resistors ends (for the points that now have resistors) on the 25pin plug to their corresponding colors (just match them with the ones on the board), EXCEPT that the wire coming the the orange point will have the 1N914/4148 Switching Diode on it. The diode has a black line on it that is slightly closer to one side, and that side is the one that MUST be soldered to the motherboard, while the other side will be soldered to the wire coming from the orange point on the 25pin plug. Keep the wires as short as you can while still having enough length to reach from the Xbox to your computers port without putting too much tension on the wires.
Now that you have done this, you simply need plug the 25pin plug into your computer (while having your Xbox resting on some surface), and then plug in your Xbox's power brick but DO NOT turn the console on.
Then download the following:
-Nandpro V3.0a: http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/xbox360pc/nandtools/Nandpro30.rar
-If you have a 64bit system you also need this: http://www.highrez.co.uk/scripts/download.asp?package=InpOutBinaries
Extract Nandpro into a folder (called Nandpro30) on your desktop (you need WinRAR/7zip to do this) and if you have a 64bit OS extract InpOutx64.dll from the 2nd file into that folder as well, and if you have a 32bit OS once you extract the folder you must run port95.exe and install it. Then open a command prompt by searching (Windows 7/Vista) for "cmd" it or going to Run (All Windows) and entering "cmd". Then you are going to type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then run this command:
where X is based on your console. If you have a Xenon, Zephyr, Opus, Falcon, Jasper, Trinity, or Corona V1 then X=16 If you have a Jasper BB 256MB or 512MB then X=64 (this can take a VERY long time for BB Jaspers)
In the end you will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start reading, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 03FF (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)You didn't run port95 or copy in InpOutx64.dll or 2) You didn't solder correctly or 3) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now you are going to run the command again except instead of "nand.bin" at the end you are going to have "nand2.bin". This is to get 2 dumps and compare them to make sure they match, which guarantees that it is correct (lots of waiting for Jasper BBs). Now open J-runner and click the "..." next to "source file" and select nand.bin and for the "..." next to "additional file" select nand2.bin (these are both in the nandpro30 folder). It should tell you it is an exact match in the log. If not keep dumping until you get two that match and once you get a pair that matches backup one of them somewhere as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe. Then rename the other matching dump to nanddump1.bin and move it to the "output" folder within the "J-Runner" folder that is on your desktop. Then open J-Runner and click the "..." next to "Source File" and open the nanddump1.bin you just moved.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and it's power, and keep J-Runner open but close Nandpro. Then move on to Part 2a if you are using the JTAG method or Part 2b if you are using the RGH method.
- (5x) 100 ohm 1/2W Resistors
- 1N914/4148 Switching Diode
- 25-Position Male D-Sub Connector
- 25-Position D-Sub Connector Hood (not needed but keeps it clean and safe from shorts external shorts)
- Wire (from material list)
- A computer with the old school 25pin purple printer/LPT port
Then you are going to solder a wire from each of the points/resistors ends (for the points that now have resistors) on the 25pin plug to their corresponding colors (just match them with the ones on the board), EXCEPT that the wire coming the the orange point will have the 1N914/4148 Switching Diode on it. The diode has a black line on it that is slightly closer to one side, and that side is the one that MUST be soldered to the motherboard, while the other side will be soldered to the wire coming from the orange point on the 25pin plug. Keep the wires as short as you can while still having enough length to reach from the Xbox to your computers port without putting too much tension on the wires.
Now that you have done this, you simply need plug the 25pin plug into your computer (while having your Xbox resting on some surface), and then plug in your Xbox's power brick but DO NOT turn the console on.
Then download the following:
-Nandpro V3.0a: http://dwl.xbox-scene.com/xbox360pc/nandtools/Nandpro30.rar
-If you have a 64bit system you also need this: http://www.highrez.co.uk/scripts/download.asp?package=InpOutBinaries
Extract Nandpro into a folder (called Nandpro30) on your desktop (you need WinRAR/7zip to do this) and if you have a 64bit OS extract InpOutx64.dll from the 2nd file into that folder as well, and if you have a 32bit OS once you extract the folder you must run port95.exe and install it. Then open a command prompt by searching (Windows 7/Vista) for "cmd" it or going to Run (All Windows) and entering "cmd". Then you are going to type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then run this command:
Code:
nandpro lpt: -rX nand.binIn the end you will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start reading, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 03FF (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)You didn't run port95 or copy in InpOutx64.dll or 2) You didn't solder correctly or 3) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now you are going to run the command again except instead of "nand.bin" at the end you are going to have "nand2.bin". This is to get 2 dumps and compare them to make sure they match, which guarantees that it is correct (lots of waiting for Jasper BBs). Now open J-runner and click the "..." next to "source file" and select nand.bin and for the "..." next to "additional file" select nand2.bin (these are both in the nandpro30 folder). It should tell you it is an exact match in the log. If not keep dumping until you get two that match and once you get a pair that matches backup one of them somewhere as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe. Then rename the other matching dump to nanddump1.bin and move it to the "output" folder within the "J-Runner" folder that is on your desktop. Then open J-Runner and click the "..." next to "Source File" and open the nanddump1.bin you just moved.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and it's power, and keep J-Runner open but close Nandpro. Then move on to Part 2a if you are using the JTAG method or Part 2b if you are using the RGH method.
NAND-X/J-R Programmer
This is the fastest and easiest method, but you need one of these: http://www.modsupplier.com/catalog/xecuter-nandx-rgh-edition-jtag-kit-v3-p-916.html
When you receive your NAND-X/J-R Programmer it will come with a plug that simply has wires or has black plastic with legs at the end, and a plug that has wires with a few ends that are colored green, blue, and white.
If you have the QSB's installed you simply plug the wire with the colored ends into your NAND-X//J-R Programmer (bottom port if your facing the top of it) and then the colored ends into their respective plugs on the QSBs (the colors match, though the blue and green can be a bit hard to tell apart so look carefully, AND there are 2 white plugs, one with 2 pins which isn't the one you want and one with 3 pins which is the one you want) and skip the next paragraph.
If you don't have the QSBs or you are JTAG'ing you need to solder the wires/legs (depending on what yours comes with) directly to the points. Use the following picture to see what wires/legs to solder to which points:
It is possible that your cable will have different colors (though unlikely). If that is the case simply match the wires based on where they connect to the white end. For example, if the cable that is blue in my picture is green for you, still match it with the blue point on the board
Then plug the other end into your NAND-X/J-R Programmer (bottom port if your facing the top).
Plug in your NAND-X/J-R Programmer with the mini-USB cable to your computer. Now you need to install your NAND-X/J-R Programmer drivers. Use this page to do that: http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85709
Then open J-Runner. Now click "Read Nand" at the top. It should auto detect your console type and start reading. If it doesn't and instead brings up a list, select your console type, and JasperBB owners it will bring up a prompt where you must select your MU size (256MB or 512MB), and then click OK. It should start reading. If it doesn't in either cases then check your soldering, make sure your drivers are installed, and make sure everything is plugged in. When it is done reading twice it should automatically add your nand dumps to the "Source File" and "Additional File" fields and compare them which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same" in the log. If they are not the same keep trying until they are (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file (this is in the "output folder" within your "J-Runner" folder on your desktop) as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and its power, and keep J-Runner open. Then move on to Part 2a if you are using the JTAG method, Part 2b if you are using the RGH method, or Part 2c if you are using the R-JTAG method.
When you receive your NAND-X/J-R Programmer it will come with a plug that simply has wires or has black plastic with legs at the end, and a plug that has wires with a few ends that are colored green, blue, and white.
If you have the QSB's installed you simply plug the wire with the colored ends into your NAND-X//J-R Programmer (bottom port if your facing the top of it) and then the colored ends into their respective plugs on the QSBs (the colors match, though the blue and green can be a bit hard to tell apart so look carefully, AND there are 2 white plugs, one with 2 pins which isn't the one you want and one with 3 pins which is the one you want) and skip the next paragraph.
If you don't have the QSBs or you are JTAG'ing you need to solder the wires/legs (depending on what yours comes with) directly to the points. Use the following picture to see what wires/legs to solder to which points:
It is possible that your cable will have different colors (though unlikely). If that is the case simply match the wires based on where they connect to the white end. For example, if the cable that is blue in my picture is green for you, still match it with the blue point on the board
Then plug the other end into your NAND-X/J-R Programmer (bottom port if your facing the top).
Plug in your NAND-X/J-R Programmer with the mini-USB cable to your computer. Now you need to install your NAND-X/J-R Programmer drivers. Use this page to do that: http://www.team-xecuter.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85709
Then open J-Runner. Now click "Read Nand" at the top. It should auto detect your console type and start reading. If it doesn't and instead brings up a list, select your console type, and JasperBB owners it will bring up a prompt where you must select your MU size (256MB or 512MB), and then click OK. It should start reading. If it doesn't in either cases then check your soldering, make sure your drivers are installed, and make sure everything is plugged in. When it is done reading twice it should automatically add your nand dumps to the "Source File" and "Additional File" fields and compare them which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same" in the log. If they are not the same keep trying until they are (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file (this is in the "output folder" within your "J-Runner" folder on your desktop) as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and its power, and keep J-Runner open. Then move on to Part 2a if you are using the JTAG method, Part 2b if you are using the RGH method, or Part 2c if you are using the R-JTAG method.
SD-Card (Corona V2/V4)
You will need an SD-Card reader for this.
This is relativity simple since your QSB is already in. Simply attach the cable and "SD-Card", plug it into your reader, and then plug in the Xbox's power supply but DO NOT TURN IT ON.
Then open J-Runner
Click the small box with the text "NAND Type". Then select "Corona 4GB". Then click the button towards the top that says "Read NAND". You should now be here:
Select your device in the list, then click Read. Once it is done it should read a second one for you and then automatically compare them in the log which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same". If not change the output file name to nanddump2.bin and do it again, and then manually add both nand dumps (These files are in your "output" folder within your "J-Runner folder" on your desktop) to the "source file" and "additional file" fields, and then click "Nand Compare". You should get the "NANDs are the same" message. If in either case if the NAND's don't match try again until they do (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and it's power, and keep J-Runner open. Then move on to Part 2b since you are using the RGH method.
This is relativity simple since your QSB is already in. Simply attach the cable and "SD-Card", plug it into your reader, and then plug in the Xbox's power supply but DO NOT TURN IT ON.
Then open J-Runner
Click the small box with the text "NAND Type". Then select "Corona 4GB". Then click the button towards the top that says "Read NAND". You should now be here:
Select your device in the list, then click Read. Once it is done it should read a second one for you and then automatically compare them in the log which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same". If not change the output file name to nanddump2.bin and do it again, and then manually add both nand dumps (These files are in your "output" folder within your "J-Runner folder" on your desktop) to the "source file" and "additional file" fields, and then click "Nand Compare". You should get the "NANDs are the same" message. If in either case if the NAND's don't match try again until they do (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Keep your Xbox plugged into your computer and it's power, and keep J-Runner open. Then move on to Part 2b since you are using the RGH method.
DemoN
*NOTE: This DemoN tutorial assumes that you are using the DemoN so that you can have a stock image that can go on LIVE. If you want to do something else with the other NAND then substitute the LIVE NAND in the tutorial with whatever you want to use
If you went with a dual NAND setup and are installing the DemoN then you will being using it to dump your NAND image.
What you need:
Trinity (Slim) Install:
Corona V1/V3 (Slim) Install:
Now that your DemoN has been installed, it is time to get a dump of your NAND, but MAKE SURE THAT THE SWITCH IS ON "Xbox". First you will need to plug in the thing so you will need to temporarily plug in the ribbon cable (that goes to the daughterboard) and the daughterboard (you may also want to ground the daughterboard temporarily to be safe. Then plug your mini-USB cable into that, and the other end into your PC.
Open J-Runner. It should detected your DemoN. You will know it did because you will get an extra drop-down menu at the top labeled "DemoN", and it will show the DemoN logo. Next, make sure that in the lower right coroner where it says "Flash" it shows "Xbox360" not "DemoN", and if it does show "DemoN" simply click the "DemoN" menu and select "Toggle NAND" and it will switch. Now click "Read Nand" at the top. It should auto detect your console type and start reading. If it doesn't and instead brings up a list, select your console type, and JasperBB owners it will bring up a prompt where you must select your MU size (256MB or 512MB), and then click OK. It should start reading. If it doesn't in either cases then check your soldering, make sure your drivers are installed, and make sure everything is plugged in. When it is done reading twice it should automatically add your NAND dumps to the "Source File" and "Additional File" fields and compare them which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same" in the log. If they are not the same keep trying until they are (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file (this is in the "output folder" within your "J-Runner" folder on your desktop) as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Now that you have a NAND backup, keep your DemoN plugged move onto Step 2b: RGH if you are using the RGH method or Step 2c: R-JTAG if you are using the R-JTAG method
If you went with a dual NAND setup and are installing the DemoN then you will being using it to dump your NAND image.
What you need:
- DemoN (Phat consoles get SB even if you have a BB Jasper, the sites have it mislabeled)
- Corona QSB (If you have a Corona V1/V3) (You must be signed in to see this): http://www.xconsoles.com/products/demon-slim-corona-16mb-upgrade-kit-v1v3.html
- DemoN 256MB/512MB Phat BB NAND Upgrade Kit (if you have a BB Jasper): http://shop.01media.com/info.asp?ProductID=38915#
- Mini USB Cable (if you don't already have one): http://www.monoprice.com/products/p...=10303&cs_id=1030314&p_id=1925&seq=1&format=2
- DemoN Drivers: http://www.mediafire.com/?bohn2bl2irbyb7a
Overall it is going to look like this:
First, if you are using a BB Japser solder on the conversion kit like so:
Then, use the following diagram/pictures to solder the DemoN to the underside of the board. Pink spots are where the DemoN is anchored directly to the board, and the other colors are places for wires to run so just match the colors/numbers. Orange and brown wires don't have labels on the 1st diagram but you can see where they go in the other pictures. They are the optional remote power and sync wires respectively:
*Ignore the Yellow wire here. Its part of the Coolrunner.
First, if you are using a BB Japser solder on the conversion kit like so:
Then, use the following diagram/pictures to solder the DemoN to the underside of the board. Pink spots are where the DemoN is anchored directly to the board, and the other colors are places for wires to run so just match the colors/numbers. Orange and brown wires don't have labels on the 1st diagram but you can see where they go in the other pictures. They are the optional remote power and sync wires respectively:
*Ignore the Yellow wire here. Its part of the Coolrunner.
Trinity (Slim) Install:
Overall this is what it is gonna look like, but ignore the QSB with the thick white cable and yellow cable (its something you wont be installing):
Use the following diagram/pictures to solder the DemoN to the underside of the board. Pink spots are where the DemoN is anchored directly to the board, and the other colors are places for wires to run so just match the colors/numbers. Orange and brown wires don't have labels on the 1st diagram but you can see where they go in the other pictures. They are the optional remote power and sync wires respectively:
Use the following diagram/pictures to solder the DemoN to the underside of the board. Pink spots are where the DemoN is anchored directly to the board, and the other colors are places for wires to run so just match the colors/numbers. Orange and brown wires don't have labels on the 1st diagram but you can see where they go in the other pictures. They are the optional remote power and sync wires respectively:
*Thanks ZerOneX for some of these pictures
First, in order to make the DemoN fit on the Corona, you are going to have to install the QSB.
Install the QSB here. All the points that are labeled where it is soldered to the board, and the unlabeled ones are where you solder the DemoN to it:
Then the DemoN goes on top of it like this:
Now overall it is gonna look like this:
Use the following pictures to solder the DemoN to the board. There is no diagram, but the pictures should suffice. Also you might want to tape down the side of the board with the orange wires because it lacks a solder joint so it isn't held down on that side (some people use part of the Coolrunners adhesive pad):
*This wire wasn't in the previous picture, but you can see it in the overall one. It goes right next to the orange wire
First, in order to make the DemoN fit on the Corona, you are going to have to install the QSB.
Install the QSB here. All the points that are labeled where it is soldered to the board, and the unlabeled ones are where you solder the DemoN to it:
Then the DemoN goes on top of it like this:
Now overall it is gonna look like this:
Use the following pictures to solder the DemoN to the board. There is no diagram, but the pictures should suffice. Also you might want to tape down the side of the board with the orange wires because it lacks a solder joint so it isn't held down on that side (some people use part of the Coolrunners adhesive pad):
*This wire wasn't in the previous picture, but you can see it in the overall one. It goes right next to the orange wire
Now that your DemoN has been installed, it is time to get a dump of your NAND, but MAKE SURE THAT THE SWITCH IS ON "Xbox". First you will need to plug in the thing so you will need to temporarily plug in the ribbon cable (that goes to the daughterboard) and the daughterboard (you may also want to ground the daughterboard temporarily to be safe. Then plug your mini-USB cable into that, and the other end into your PC.
Open J-Runner. It should detected your DemoN. You will know it did because you will get an extra drop-down menu at the top labeled "DemoN", and it will show the DemoN logo. Next, make sure that in the lower right coroner where it says "Flash" it shows "Xbox360" not "DemoN", and if it does show "DemoN" simply click the "DemoN" menu and select "Toggle NAND" and it will switch. Now click "Read Nand" at the top. It should auto detect your console type and start reading. If it doesn't and instead brings up a list, select your console type, and JasperBB owners it will bring up a prompt where you must select your MU size (256MB or 512MB), and then click OK. It should start reading. If it doesn't in either cases then check your soldering, make sure your drivers are installed, and make sure everything is plugged in. When it is done reading twice it should automatically add your NAND dumps to the "Source File" and "Additional File" fields and compare them which you can see by the text "NANDs are the same" in the log. If they are not the same keep trying until they are (you might have to restart the program to do this). Then make a backup (copy don't move) of the "nanddump1.bin" file (this is in the "output folder" within your "J-Runner" folder on your desktop) as "Orig_NAND.bin" and keep it safe.
Now that you have a NAND backup, keep your DemoN plugged move onto Step 2b: RGH if you are using the RGH method or Step 2c: R-JTAG if you are using the R-JTAG method
Now if you are on exactly dash 7371 (and therefore trying to JTAG) it is time to find out if you Xbox is JTAG'able. If this doesn't apply to you skip this. In J-Runner (it should still be open with your motherboard type selected and your NAND dump selected under "Source File") look over the the middle right and check out in the "Nand Info" section where is says "2BL [CB]". Look at what your CB is and see if it is in this list:
-Xenon: 1922, 1923, 1940, 7373
-Zephyr: 4571, 4572, 4578, 4579, 4580
-Falcon/Opus: 5771
-Jasper: 6750
If your CB is on this list it is patched and not JTAG'able. If it is not on this list you are good to go.
Checklist:
- Your here because you found in the flow chart that your exploit method is the JTAG method (dash is 7371 or less and console is a phat)
- You have Orig.bin NAND dump backed up
- Your CB is not on the list of patched CBs
1. The Xenon Method (only for Xenon consoles)
2. The Boxxdr Method (Zephyrs, Opus, Falcon, and Jasper)
3. The Boxxdr Method plus DVD Tray (Zephyrs, Opus, Falcon, and Jasper)
There are more variations of these methods but these are the only ones you need to care about as the Boxxdr method is the most stable. If you have a Xenon motherboard you do its one and only method, if you have any other motherboard you do the 2nd method (Boxxdr). In general the default method should work for you so go for it, but some consoles will rarely require the Boxxdr Method plus the DVD tray point. So if you get to the part with booting Xell and the console doesn't boot, you frequently get E79's, or you have problems with HDMI and really want it come back here and check out the 3rd method.
Method 1 (Xenon):
What you need:
Now follow which one applies to you:
A) You used the LPT method to dump your NAND
B) You used the NAND-X/J-R Programmer method you dump your NAND
A) Keep J-Runner open, and copy the xenon.bin file from the output folder in the J-Runner folder on your desktop into the Nandpro30 folder. The open a Command Prompt again ("cmd") and type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then type in this command:
You will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start writing, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 004F (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)Check your soldering or 2) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now that this is done you can close Nandpro and remove your LPT plug from your computer and your Xbox. We won't be needing it any longer. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
---END OF A---
B) In J-Runner click "Write Xell Reloaded" and you should see it start writing in the log. If not then make sure your NAND-X/J-R Programmer is still connected to your computer and the motherboard and the Xbox's power is plugged in. When it reaches 03FF it will complete.
Now that this is done you can disconnect the NAND-X/J-R Programmer from your computer and your Xbox. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
--END OF B--
Now use this diagram to solder the actual JTAG wires:
The red line is a simple jumper wire while the yellow and blue are bridging wires with one switching diode each. For both the blue and yellow wires, the end of the diode that has the black line closer to it MUST be soldered to the motherboard by J1F1, while the wire is soldered to the other end of the diode and then to its respective point by J2D2. Once this is done, put your Xbox back to together to the point where the motherboard is in the metal shell, the fans are in and the fan shroud is on, and the front Ring of Light board is plugged in. Then move on to Step 3.
- Wire (from materials list)
- (2x)1N914/4148 Switching Diode
Now follow which one applies to you:
A) You used the LPT method to dump your NAND
B) You used the NAND-X/J-R Programmer method you dump your NAND
A) Keep J-Runner open, and copy the xenon.bin file from the output folder in the J-Runner folder on your desktop into the Nandpro30 folder. The open a Command Prompt again ("cmd") and type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then type in this command:
Code:
nandpro lpt: -w16 xenon.binYou will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start writing, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 004F (more for BB Jaspers) it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)Check your soldering or 2) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now that this is done you can close Nandpro and remove your LPT plug from your computer and your Xbox. We won't be needing it any longer. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
---END OF A---
B) In J-Runner click "Write Xell Reloaded" and you should see it start writing in the log. If not then make sure your NAND-X/J-R Programmer is still connected to your computer and the motherboard and the Xbox's power is plugged in. When it reaches 03FF it will complete.
Now that this is done you can disconnect the NAND-X/J-R Programmer from your computer and your Xbox. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
--END OF B--
Now use this diagram to solder the actual JTAG wires:
The red line is a simple jumper wire while the yellow and blue are bridging wires with one switching diode each. For both the blue and yellow wires, the end of the diode that has the black line closer to it MUST be soldered to the motherboard by J1F1, while the wire is soldered to the other end of the diode and then to its respective point by J2D2. Once this is done, put your Xbox back to together to the point where the motherboard is in the metal shell, the fans are in and the fan shroud is on, and the front Ring of Light board is plugged in. Then move on to Step 3.
Method 2 (Boxxdr - All other consoles):
What you need:
Now follow which one applies to you:
A) You used the LPT method to dump your NAND
B) You used the NAND-X/J-R Programmer method you dump your NAND
A) Keep J-Runner open, and copy the [motherboard type]_hack_aud_clamp.bin file from the output folder in the J-Runner folder on your desktop into the Nandpro30 folder. The open a Command Prompt again ("cmd") and type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then type in this command:
where X is based on your console. If you have a Xenon, Zephyr, Opus, Falcon, or Jasper then X=16 If you have a Jasper BB 256MB or 512MB then X=64 (this can take a VERY long time for BB Jaspers)
In the end you will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start writing, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 004F it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)Check your soldering or 2) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now that this is done you can close Nandpro and remove your LPT plug from your computer and your Xbox. We won't be needing it any longer. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
---END OF A---
B) In J-Runner click "Write Xell Reloaded" and you should see it start writing in the log. If not then make sure your NAND-X/J-R Programmer is still connected to your computer and the motherboard and the Xbox's power is plugged in. When it reaches 03FF (more for BB Jaspers) it will complete.
Now that this is done you can disconnect the NAND-X/J-R Programmer from your computer and your Xbox. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
--END OF B--
For the actual soldering this is the area of the board you will be focusing on, and you can either remove the solder from these points (like in the picture), or push the legs of the components through them:
You need to insert the resistors into the points shown and bend their legs back like such,but leave enough of the legs sticking out the bottom so that you can fold them together like in the next picture:
Now you are going to solder in the transistors so that their labels are facing away from the heatsink, their bottom legs are in their respective holes, their middle legs are soldered to the bent back legs of the resistors, and their top legs have nothing. It will look like this:
Then you are going to solder one wire to the top leg of each transistor and feed them through the shown holes in the board. Make sure you use heat shrink on these so they don't short with the other legs:
Then you are going to solder each wire to their respective point on the bottom in these pictures:
Once this is done, put your Xbox back to together to the point where the motherboard is in the metal shell, the fans are in and the fan shroud is on, and the front Ring of Light board is plugged in. Then move on to Step 3.
- Wire (from materials list)
- (2x) 10K Ohm 1/2watt or 1/4watt Resistors
- (2x) 2N3904 Transistors
- Heat shrink is a must here
Now follow which one applies to you:
A) You used the LPT method to dump your NAND
B) You used the NAND-X/J-R Programmer method you dump your NAND
A) Keep J-Runner open, and copy the [motherboard type]_hack_aud_clamp.bin file from the output folder in the J-Runner folder on your desktop into the Nandpro30 folder. The open a Command Prompt again ("cmd") and type "cd desktop\Nandpro30" and press enter, and then type in this command:
Code:
nandpro lpt: -wX [motherboard type]_hack_aud_clamp.binIn the end you will end up with something like this:
Now simply press enter and it should start writing, which you can see by the the 4digit alphanumeric code at the bottom that starts at 0000 and will slowly go up by 1. Once it reaches 004F it will stop and show another command line. If it didn't work then 1)Check your soldering or 2) Your Xbox's power isn't plugged in
Now that this is done you can close Nandpro and remove your LPT plug from your computer and your Xbox. We won't be needing it any longer. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
---END OF A---
B) In J-Runner click "Write Xell Reloaded" and you should see it start writing in the log. If not then make sure your NAND-X/J-R Programmer is still connected to your computer and the motherboard and the Xbox's power is plugged in. When it reaches 03FF (more for BB Jaspers) it will complete.
Now that this is done you can disconnect the NAND-X/J-R Programmer from your computer and your Xbox. Also, unplug the Xbox's power.
--END OF B--
For the actual soldering this is the area of the board you will be focusing on, and you can either remove the solder from these points (like in the picture), or push the legs of the components through them:
You need to insert the resistors into the points shown and bend their legs back like such,but leave enough of the legs sticking out the bottom so that you can fold them together like in the next picture:
Now you are going to solder in the transistors so that their labels are facing away from the heatsink, their bottom legs are in their respective holes, their middle legs are soldered to the bent back legs of the resistors, and their top legs have nothing. It will look like this:
Then you are going to solder one wire to the top leg of each transistor and feed them through the shown holes in the board. Make sure you use heat shrink on these so they don't short with the other legs:
Then you are going to solder each wire to their respective point on the bottom in these pictures:
Once this is done, put your Xbox back to together to the point where the motherboard is in the metal shell, the fans are in and the fan shroud is on, and the front Ring of Light board is plugged in. Then move on to Step 3.
Method 3 (Boxxdr plus DVD tray):
If you have had troubles with booting, freezing, or HDMI then you should be returning here. It is extremely rare that a person needs this wiring so I will not be directly discussing it (this tutorial is long enough) so check out this page and find the section about "Open_tray" if you really need it.
CONTINUED ON NEXT POST
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