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Solved jtag no video problem xenon

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gamer7121

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I have a xenon jtag xbox 360, and it works fine, the only issue is after resetting it a few times (console resets, crashes, unloading pluggins, etc) the video starts glitching. There will be lines running down the screen or the video will just look weird in general. Generally after this happens I will reset the console and sometimes this fixes it but the majority of the time it will just have a complete black screen. The console will boot and I can see controller one on my controller, but I have no video output whatsoever. Switching back to standard definition sometimes works but typically the only way I have found to fix this is to completely reflash the nand through xell, which still works even though I can't see anything as it automatically flashes if I have the usb in. This makes me think it isn't a heat issue because immediately after flashing the video works fine. I have unplugged the console and let it sit for a few hours and came back and it worked, but this is not ideal if I am trying to play something.

edit: I just reflashed the nand and even that didn't work this time, so I believe it is heat related. My temps after 2 hours of playing it though were 65 for the cpu and 45-50 for everything else, board 30ish.
 
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x86

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I have a xenon jtag xbox 360, and it works fine, the only issue is after resetting it a few times (console resets, crashes, unloading pluggins, etc) the video starts glitching. There will be lines running down the screen or the video will just look weird in general. Generally after this happens I will reset the console and sometimes this fixes it but the majority of the time it will just have a complete black screen. The console will boot and I can see controller one on my controller, but I have no video output whatsoever. Switching back to standard definition sometimes works but typically the only way I have found to fix this is to completely reflash the nand through xell, which still works even though I can't see anything as it automatically flashes if I have the usb in. This makes me think it isn't a heat issue because immediately after flashing the video works fine. I have unplugged the console and let it sit for a few hours and came back and it worked, but this is not ideal if I am trying to play something.

edit: I just reflashed the nand and even that didn't work this time, so maybe it is heat related. My temps after 2 hours of playing it though were 65 for the cpu and 45-50 for everything else, board 30ish

Reflashing the nand will not fix the issue that your xenon is having. Flashing the nand may seem to work because the console has to be turned off and the board cools down. This explains why your console is playable and functions well before it hits full load.

If you're seeing weird colored shaped 'artifacts' after an hour or two then it could be that the gpu has started to fail. This happens because gpu starts to have broken solder contacts with the motherboard (board warps over time during the hot and cold cycles as it turns on and off) and will either rrod or get e74. E74 is the console powers on but a black screen displays because the gpu solder points on the board are broken.

A few suggestions to mitigate the issue...

1. Get a tube of arctic silver 5 thermal compound and apply a new coat to the gpu and cpu dies (shiny square shapes on the chips). Upgrade the gpu heatsink to a 2nd gen heatsink. The artifacts could probably just take a bit longer to start appearing on the screen. This is a short-term fix until rrod or e74 triggers. Its inevitable.

2. Reflow the gpu chip. This is a short term fix that can last up to a few months but will have to be repeated and it does damage the board eventually. You can reflow the gpu with a heat gun and there tons of guides on google and youtube on how to reflow. DO NOT buy the x-clamp fix which comes with bolts and nuts if you come across it online. This will make things a lot worse and it doesn't work as it only applies more pressure to the board. You will also need to add new layers of thermal compound on the processor chips.

3. Get the board reballed. You can google or youtube what a reballing service does to the board which is a long-term fix. However, the price can be anywhere from $50-100 and its now hard to find people who still do it. Watch out for the people on youtube who advertise doing it because they don't reball but only reflow. There's a big difference.

4. Get a jasper xbox 360 and rgh it yourself. You can get stock jaspers on ebay cheap and glitching it ins't very difficult at all. This is what I would do. Xenons are garbage consoles and not worth investing on.
 
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gamer7121

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Reflashing the nand will not fix the issue that your xenon is having. Flashing the nand may seem to work because the console has to be turned off and the board cools down. This explains why your console is playable and functions well before it hits full load.

If you're seeing weird colored shaped 'artifacts' after an hour or two then it could be that the gpu has started to fail. This happens because gpu starts to have broken solder contacts with the motherboard (board warps over time during the hot and cold cycles as it turns on and off) and will either rrod or get e74. E74 is the console powers on but a black screen displays because the gpu solder points on the board are broken.

A few suggestions to mitigate the issue...

1. Get a tube of arctic silver 5 thermal compound and apply a new coat to the gpu and cpu dies (shiny square shapes on the chips). Upgrade the gpu heatsink to a 2nd gen heatsink. The artifacts could probably just take a bit longer to start appearing on the screen. This is a short-term fix until rrod or e74 triggers. Its inevitable.

2. Reflow the gpu chip. This is a short term fix that can last up to a few months but will have to be repeated and it does damage the board eventually. You can reflow the gpu with a heat gun and there tons of guides on google and youtube on how to reflow. DO NOT buy the x-clamp fix which comes with bolts and nuts if you come across it online. This will make things a lot worse and it doesn't work as it only applies more pressure to the board. You will also need to add new layers of thermal compound on the processor chips.

3. Get the board reballed. You can google or youtube what a reballing service does to the board which is a long-term fix. However, the price can be anywhere from $50-100 and its now hard to find people who still do it. Watch out for the people on youtube who advertise doing it because they don't reball but only reflow. There's a big difference.

4. Get a jasper xbox 360 and rgh it yourself. You can get stock jaspers on ebay cheap and glitching it ins't very difficult at all. This is what I would do. Xenons are garbage consoles and not worth investing on.

I kind of thought that was the issue but didn't want to admit my console was going towards failing. What I ended up doing was taking the motherboard completely out of the shell, taking off the heatsinks, and trying the hairdryer trick with the gpu, cpu, and ana chip. I've heard positive and negative things about this, but its a xenon so I don't really care too much about it at this point. I also replaced the thermal paste and swapped in falcon heatsinks from my brothers broken console he gave me, and did a proper 12v fan mod running from the power supply instead of dvd cable. whoever worked on the console prior I swear put half the tube of thermal paste on each chip, which probably wasn't helping heat distribution. Since then the console has been running about 8 degrees c cooler than before and has had no issues.

I already rgh'ed a falcon I had laying around with a coolrunner, and it runs better and suprisingly boots faster than the jtag (one of the benefits of jtag was supposedly boot time). I just wanted to do a jtag to say I've done one, and when I was looking for exploitable consoles, a xenon was 50 bucks and I couldn't find a falcon or jasper anywhere close to that price (most were at least 150 for a dash under 7371). Now I see why xenons are so cheap.
I probably put way too much work into this project than its worth for a xenon especially in 2018 but at least now I have a working jtag and I have nothing better to do atm on break.
 
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x86

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I kind of thought that was the issue but didn't want to admit my console was going towards failing. What I ended up doing was taking the motherboard completely out of the shell, taking off the heatsinks, and trying the hairdryer trick with the gpu, cpu, and ana chip. I've heard positive and negative things about this, but its a xenon so I don't really care too much about it at this point. I also replaced the thermal paste and swapped in falcon heatsinks from my brothers broken console he gave me, and did a proper 12v fan mod running from the power supply instead of dvd cable. whoever worked on the console prior I swear put half the tube of thermal paste on each chip, which probably wasn't helping heat distribution. Since then the console has been running about 8 degrees c cooler than before and has had no issues.

I already rgh'ed a falcon I had laying around with a coolrunner, and it runs better and suprisingly boots faster than the jtag (one of the benefits of jtag was supposedly boot time). I just wanted to do a jtag to say I've done one, and when I was looking for exploitable consoles, a xenon was 50 bucks and I couldn't find a falcon or jasper anywhere close to that price (most were at least 150 for a dash under 7371). Now I see why xenons are so cheap.
I probably put way too much work into this project than its worth for a xenon especially in 2018 but at least now I have a working jtag and I have nothing better to do atm on break.

Oh man I didn't know that the xenon had been worked on before. Yeah a lack of good layer of thermal compound can cause a major problem and running 12v from the dvd drive is bad as well. That's the same crap that gamestop does to refurb a 360. Dude you went all out to fix that xenon! I am glad to hear that your xenon working better now.
 
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