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Unsolved How to calibrate an Xbox 360 controller with a JTAG/RGH console only?

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antivirtel

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Hi,

I've recently installed an Ace v3 on my Xbox 360 Trinity, it's working fine, great boot times. I've started looking into fixing the old Xbox 360 controllers, since most of them have at least the LS drift problem, some of them have both LS and RS drift issue. So I assumed the sensors are worn in the controller, so bough new sensors:
Code:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223309759402

However even after replacing both sensors in one of the old controllers, the LS still doesn't tend to stay in the middle, but at least RS is better, almost in the middle. After a bit Googling I've found I'd need to increase the dead zone. I'm checking this with a XEX application called GAMEPAD (for some reason it's in Spanish, so I'd love to have an English one, please link me one if you know one).
First time I've replaced LS sensor it was way out of the normal ranges, around 80% dead zone would be needed (red: LS, green: RS, white square: dead zone, I think it's around 5% on this photo):
Code:
https://i.imgur.com/joyFD4Y.jpg

I assumed that the sensor I've replaced it with is low quality, or has a manufacturing issue, so I've replaced LS again with a different shipment of the sensors. It's better now, but it still needs at least 21% dead zone. What do you think, is 21% acceptable, or I might still have some issue with the sensor, or something else needs replacement/calibration on the controller's PCB? Modifying the dead zone sounds like just a patch to the problem, not a real solution.

What I've found online, is to connect the controller somehow to a Windows PC with its special cable (which I don't have), then you can modify the dead zone with some Windows program, like Durazno:
Code:
https://github.com/KrossX/Durazno
I assume Durazno can write to some of the chips on the controller PCB, can't it?

However, I'm wondering before I buy/get a cable like that, if it's possible via my RGH2'd Xbox 360 with an application or something on the fly, without connecting the controller to a Windows PC? If yes, can you please link me that application?

Thank you
 
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Slim Shady

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i had the same issue but with an Xbox one controller some of the modules can be dodgy and not work i don't think there is a homebrew app for Xbox apart from Gamepad and i dunno, if it does anything to the dead-zone settings best bet, would be to get that cable so you can plug it into the pc and program it from there. i had a look at Durazno and it seems it just saves an INI file and you put that in your games directory.

the eBay link you posted those joysticks look kinda strange to me and don't seem to be an actual OG Xbox 360 module ence the issues you are having you can try this video its for an Xbox one but would work the same for a 360 controller
 
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antivirtel

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Hi,

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately, Xbox 360 and Xbox One controllers have different sensors for the first blink, so I don't think there is anything I can adjust on these Xbox 360 sensors, the green/black thing similar to a screw head is moving when you actually move the stick, so it has no use trying to move it, it won't stay.

The 2 (broken) originals are on the left, the 2 new ones (different sellers, the left one is the broken) are on the right. Looks pretty much the same for me (except the metal part, one on the right is not copper/bronze, but that is minor difference), I've opened the controller before ordering them, if they're the same, see this picture:
Code:
https://i.imgur.com/PWhfQTN.jpg

They work better after replacing, but still not within a kind of acceptable 10% dead zone...

I'd love not to use Durazno, so anyone has any other ideas?

Thank you
 
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afterjo

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You can't edit or recalibrate dead zones. Only thing is to reuse potentiometers (black/green plastic things with three legs) from old thumbstick assembly and put it on the new.
 
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antivirtel

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Well, I was trying to replace the whole sensor, with 2 brand new potentiometers on it. Are you saying that 2 out of 3 I got are faulty? I need to keep trying?
 
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Slim Shady

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Well, I was trying to replace them. Are you saying that 2 out of 3 I got are faulty? I need to keep trying?
i would try to get some and test those.
 
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afterjo

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Well, I was trying to replace them. Are you saying that 2 out of 3 I got are faulty? I need to keep trying?

they are OK, just crap potentiometers. There is no way to buy original ALPS thumbsticks. Even third party controllers use them, so many people complain about super sensitive thumb sticks.
 
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antivirtel

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Thank you for the reply Slim Shady & afterjo.
I have a multimeter, but I don't know how exactly to test the ones I've got. What is their resistance range the controller electronics expect? I know that the middle leg should be tested for resistance against one of the side ones, I assume the power. Is this right?

Do you think these are originals? This is the 2 I've found with ALPS. The ones I bough must be knock off for sure, right? No point replacing them, just if they pass the test, with perfect results, right? Only problem is that these are from China, will take at least a month to get here, even that might be optimistic in this situation.

Code:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/253857260253
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251475662114
 
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afterjo

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You don't need to buy them, no guarantee they are original.

You only need to have original sensors and put them on third party mechanism.
 
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