Solved E80 Error (different then the rest)

[djreisch]

So I have been reading a ton (I mean a ton) of guides on saying how to fix this error.

My symptoms: After turning on XBOX 360 the green light illuminates, blink 3 times, then turns into a solid red light. The ring however does not illuminate at all (all the guides I have seen/found describe one of the ring's quadrants illuminating, however with mine it is not the case. Just the center light illuminates) this is followed by the monitor showing the menu telling you something goofed, and your error is E80. I tried looking for a "secondary" error code (as some guides mentioned) but E80 was the only error code I found.

I proceeded at attempting the "Hold reset and then press the power button, and keep holding reset" suggestion, and to my dismay this did not work.

The next thing I did was take a look at the motherboard, because several guides mentioned that the R6T3 resistor might be missing or fried. I found the R6T3 resistor (it seemed to be ok) but after delicately removing it with no marks or scuffs, I did a quick test on it with my multi-meter and it showed up as a short.

I figured "great" that's the problem. Got a new 10K Ohm resistor, verified it's integrity, then soldered it on. Applied some new thermal paste to the heatsink, and screwed the vitals back in place.

Pressed power button, green light comes on steady, blinks 3 times, and then changes to solid red. Error E80 displays on screen.

What the heck do I do now?

Best Regards,
-DJ

 

[TEIR1plus2]

So I have been reading a ton (I mean a ton) of guides on saying how to fix this error.

My symptoms: After turning on XBOX 360 the green light illuminates, blink 3 times, then turns into a solid red light. The ring however does not illuminate at all (all the guides I have seen/found describe one of the ring's quadrants illuminating, however with mine it is not the case. Just the center light illuminates) this is followed by the monitor showing the menu telling you something goofed, and your error is E80. I tried looking for a "secondary" error code (as some guides mentioned) but E80 was the only error code I found.

I proceeded at attempting the "Hold reset and then press the power button, and keep holding reset" suggestion, and to my dismay this did not work.

The next thing I did was take a look at the motherboard, because several guides mentioned that the R6T3 resistor might be missing or fried. I found the R6T3 resistor (it seemed to be ok) but after delicately removing it with no marks or scuffs, I did a quick test on it with my multi-meter and it showed up as a short.

I figured "great" that's the problem. Got a new 10K Ohm resistor, verified it's integrity, then soldered it on. Applied some new thermal paste to the heatsink, and screwed the vitals back in place.

Pressed power button, green light comes on steady, blinks 3 times, and then changes to solid red. Error E80 displays on screen.

What the heck do I do now?

Best Regards,
-DJ

To get the secondary error code, when the console is on with the red lights, press the sync and eject button at the same time. The lights should change and blink faster, do this 3 more times and post what you got.

 

[djreisch]

To get the secondary error code, when the console is on with the red lights, press the sync and eject button at the same time. The lights should change and blink faster, do this 3 more times and post what you got.

Wow, thanks for the super quick response! So I think I did this correctly... I turned it on, received the error code, then held the sync, the first time I pushed eject the top left button flashed (if the console is laying down), the second time I pushed the eject button, no lights came on. The third time I pushed the eject button, all dour lights started flashing.

Did I do it correctly? What does that mean?

 

[TEIR1plus2]

You need to do it four times total. Also, no lights on the second one is a bit unusual. Double check if it happens again.

 

[djreisch]

You need to do it four times total. Also, no lights on the second one is a bit unusual. Double check if it happens again.

You are replaying so fast I'm gonna cry, I did not expect a response same day. I have to call it a night since I have to get up rather early tomorrow. I will do it tomorrow and let you know the results, so don't think I'm ignoring you. When I do this test, should I keep my working replacement 10K Ohm resistor soldered in (the R6T3 replacement)?

 

[TEIR1plus2]

You are replaying so fast I'm gonna cry, I did not expect a response same day. I have to call it a night since I have to get up rather early tomorrow. I will do it tomorrow and let you know the results, so don't think I'm ignoring you. When I do this test, should I keep my working replacement 10K Ohm resistor soldered in (the R6T3 replacement)?

Yes. Also if you get no lights again, do it an extra time. So five times total just to be sure your not missing one.

How the error codes work:
1 light: 1
2 lights: 2
3 lights: 3
4 lights: 0

It'll turn out to be a 4 digit code, for example 0102

 

[HuskerHeaven]

So I have been reading a ton (I mean a ton) of guides on saying how to fix this error.

My symptoms: After turning on XBOX 360 the green light illuminates, blink 3 times, then turns into a solid red light. The ring however does not illuminate at all (all the guides I have seen/found describe one of the ring's quadrants illuminating, however with mine it is not the case. Just the center light illuminates) this is followed by the monitor showing the menu telling you something goofed, and your error is E80. I tried looking for a "secondary" error code (as some guides mentioned) but E80 was the only error code I found.

I proceeded at attempting the "Hold reset and then press the power button, and keep holding reset" suggestion, and to my dismay this did not work.

The next thing I did was take a look at the motherboard, because several guides mentioned that the R6T3 resistor might be missing or fried. I found the R6T3 resistor (it seemed to be ok) but after delicately removing it with no marks or scuffs, I did a quick test on it with my multi-meter and it showed up as a short.

I figured "great" that's the problem. Got a new 10K Ohm resistor, verified it's integrity, then soldered it on. Applied some new thermal paste to the heatsink, and screwed the vitals back in place.

Pressed power button, green light comes on steady, blinks 3 times, and then changes to solid red. Error E80 displays on screen.

What the heck do I do now?

Best Regards,
-DJ

Do you have a modified color ROL?

 

[TEIR1plus2]

Also, an E80 usually just means you LDV value is wrong in your nand. This makes perfect sense if R6T3 was shorted, as that resistor has to do with burning your efuses(1 fuse gets burned after every update). Did you recently update your console? The LDV in your nand gets checked against your efuses, if they don't match, your console will not boot. This is to protect your console from being downgraded.

If your console is hacked then its an easy fix of just changing the LDV in your nand. If its not hacked then your only option is to hack it. Otherwise your console is bricked.

 

[HuskerHeaven]

Also, an E80 usually just means you LDV value is wrong in your nand. This makes perfect sense if R6T3 was shorted, as that resistor has to do with burning your efuses(1 fuse gets burned after every update). Did you recently update your console? The LDV in your nand gets checked against your efuses, if they don't match, your console will not boot. This is to protect your console from being downgraded.

If your console is hacked then its an easy fix of just changing the LDV in your nand. If its not hacked then your only option is to hack it. Otherwise your console is bricked.

The LDV hasn't mattered for a while in hacked images. Xebuild bypasses LDV Checks.

OP, have you recently tried updating and if so, how?

 

[TEIR1plus2]

The LDV hasn't mattered for a while in hacked images. Xebuild bypasses LDV Checks.

OP, have you recently tried updating and if so, how?

From what I understand is that they didn't bypass the check itself, they instead bypassed it by not incrementing the value and not letting the console burn the fuses. Although I understand I may be wrong.

 

[HuskerHeaven]

From what I understand is that they didn't bypass the check itself, they instead bypassed it by not incrementing the value and not letting the console burn the fuses. Although I understand I may be wrong.

When you do a update on a RGH, it doesn't burn efuses. But back in the day, if you accidentally updated via XBL, it would, and could possibly lose the hack that was installed. That is why you would remove the resistor. This would also cause problems on demon installs if the demon wasn't on the same LDV as retail. But nowadays a RGH image built with the latest xebuild will bypass checking what LDV the CPU is on.

 

[JoinTheResistance]

When you do a update on a RGH, it doesn't burn efuses. But back in the day, if you accidentally updated via XBL, it would, and could possibly lose the hack that was installed. That is why you would remove the resistor. This would also cause problems on demon installs if the demon wasn't on the same LDV as retail. But nowadays a RGH image built with the latest xebuild will bypass checking what LDV the CPU is on.

But what if he has a stock console?

 

[TEIR1plus2]

But what if he has a stock console?

Its kind of bricked if its retail. Something went wrong with the hardware, and now hardware and software values don't match. Out of everything that could happen with 360 hardware, this is pretty unlucky.

He could possibly fix it by doing the RGH up to the point that he gets his CPU key, then build a retail image of the last working dash that he was running, then trying to do the official update again with the R6T3 fixed. If he's lucky, everything will work and it will burn the needed efuses to the correct value.

Either way the only option he has is performing an RGH.

 

[djreisch]

You need to do it four times total. Also, no lights on the second one is a bit unusual. Double check if it happens again.

Alright. Booted up, E80 error screen, while holding the sync button I pressed the eject button and then wrote down the following light sequence.

With the console again laying down on its side the light sequence is: Top left flashing rapidly, top left flashing rapidly again, all lights flashing rapidly, all lights flashing rapidly again, all lights off.

EDIT: Just read all the responses I received to this post. I am unaware of the firmware is has on it, or really any of its history. I got it at a garage sale a while back, and the guy said it had a red light of death. It was like $10 so I figured why not.

 

[HuskerHeaven]

Alright. Booted up, E80 error screen, while holding the sync button I pressed the eject button and then wrote down the following light sequence.

With the console again laying down on its side the light sequence is: Top left flashing rapidly, top left flashing rapidly again, all lights flashing rapidly, all lights flashing rapidly again, all lights off.

EDIT: Just read all the responses I received to this post. I am unaware of the firmware is has on it, or really any of its history. I got it at a garage sale a while back, and the guy said it had a red light of death. It was like $10 so I figured why not.

Are there any jtag wire or a rgh chip?

 

[djreisch]

Are there any jtag wire or a rgh chip?

I don't see anything really unusual, then again I may not know what I'm looking for.

Might you be able to give me an idea of what kind of thing I should be trying to spot?

 

[HuskerHeaven]

I don't see anything really unusual, then again I may not know what I'm looking for.

Might you be able to give me an idea of what kind of thing I should be trying to spot?

Can you take a few pictures of the board? Top, bottom, and the resistor you changed?

 

[djreisch]

I will happily take photos tomorrow when I get a chance!

EDIT: I have been crazy busy recently and I will take photos next time I get a chance!

But thank you all so far for your amazing help!

 

[djreisch]

Alright here are the photos of the entire motherboard front and back, with closeups and extra closeups on around the area of the new resistor.
You can find the album here.