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Solved Corona v4/6 pulled NAND pads

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treyjazz

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While trying to flash a DVD drive I accidentally pulled off the top row of pads. I have repaired them (sans pin 1 since it isn't needed) by soldering jumper wire over the gaps and the continuity tests ok and I haven't shorted any adjacent lines/pads, but it still won't boot. Does anyone have a diagram of the pads surrounding the NAND or at least alternates to those tiny vias? I've only been able to find ones for v1-3 Coronas.

 
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While trying to flash a DVD drive I accidentally pulled off the top row of pads. I have repaired them (sans pin 1 since it isn't needed) by soldering jumper wire over the gaps and the continuity tests ok and I haven't shorted any adjacent lines/pads, but it still won't boot. Does anyone have a diagram of the pads surrounding the NAND or at least alternates to those tiny vias? I've only been able to find ones for v1-3 Coronas.

 
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Thanks for the reply, but the v2 board differs in the traces going to the pads. Here is someone else's v4/6 picture to show the differences more clearly.

 
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Thanks for the reply, but the v2 board differs in the traces going to the pads. Here is someone else's v4/6 picture to show the differences more clearly.

It’s The Samething...

Now By The Soldering You Did Doesn’t Look Like Your Good In Soldering So I’m Gonna Bust A Martin C On You And Suggest You Leave It As Is And Send It In To A Professional That Knows What He’s Doing.

Here This One.
 
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The pads themselves have the same layout but it is blatantly obvious that the traces are very different. It seems that there are pullup and pulldown resistors on either side of the IO pads.
 
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I am able to R/W the NAND now. The 49M dump didn't match the updflash.bin, but it had the right header. I flashed the whole original dump back and read it back to make sure it matched. I completely removed the glitch hardware, but I still have no sign of it trying to power on - no red dot, no movement of the fan. The brick remains solid orange.


I think it is possibly due to trying to put a Benq drive in the system. The led of the Ace chip dimmed when the drive was connected before the pulling of pads occurred.

I am following a chart to test the voltage of various points. Is NAND pad 2 really supposition to be 3.3v in standby? It is reading 0v.
 
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I am able to R/W the NAND now. The 49M dump didn't match the updflash.bin, but it had the right header. I flashed the whole original dump back and read it back to make sure it matched. I completely removed the glitch hardware, but I still have no sign of it trying to power on - no red dot, no movement of the fan. The brick remains solid orange.


I think it is possibly due to trying to put a Benq drive in the system. The led of the Ace chip dimmed when the drive was connected before the pulling of pads occurred.

I am following a chart to test the voltage of various points. Is NAND pad 2 really supposition to be 3.3v in standby? It is reading 0v.
Use Flux Man The Soldering Looks Horrible.

And Where Did You Get Diagram? I’m Just asking This Cause It Could Be That Your Soldering In the Incorrect Points.

Could Of Just Follow The One I Gave You Above.
 
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I followed the traces from the vias. The Corona v2 rebuild points won't work (ex: no trace for pad 13 running between 14 and 16) and soldering to the TSOP pads would bypass pulldown resistors. Since it wrote and verified, I know points are proper.
 
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I researched more on standby voltage and it is definitely component(s) that blew. I get 0.07V on pin 3 of the reliability header. If I feel the need to play some 360 then I will grab one some day. Having it serviced would probably be as expensive as buying a used one when s&h is figured in. I will set it aside in my 'need to fix' pile for now. Thanks to those that tried to help.
 
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I researched more on standby voltage and it is definitely component(s) that blew. I get 0.07V on pin 3 of the reliability header. If I feel the need to play some 360 then I will grab one some day. Having it serviced would probably be as expensive as buying a used one when s&h is figured in. I will set it aside in my 'need to fix' pile for now. Thanks to those that tried to help.
Send It In To Me I’ll Fix It Free Of Charge Just Pay Shipping Both Ways.

Also Send Chip If You Want Me To Rgh It.

Long As You Live In USA .
 
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treyjazz

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That's generous of you. PM me your info please. What is the minimum I should send? Are the board, fan, rf modules sufficient?
 
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That's generous of you. PM me your info please. What is the minimum I should send? Are the board, fan, rf modules sufficient?
Yea That’s Fine.
 
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