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Unsolved Corona Demon Nand/Xell Does Not Boot RGH But Stock Retail Nand Does

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kuji

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Hi Everyone,

I seem to be having a very strange issue with my 7-8 year old dual-nand Corona Xbox 360 (Star Wars Edition). The issue is that it stopped booting modified nand's on the Demon and Xbox 360 chips. I can load the Stock 17559 nand just fine without issue so I don't think it's a wiring issue as the Demon Nand Chip boots it (although I could be wrong), it was professionally and extremely cleanly done by someone ~2013 time frame.

This issue happened about a year ago so my memory is a little jogged on what exactly happened. I believe I was either re-flashing it to 17559 or I was working on a RGLoader project flashing it and it stopped booting (turn's on no video/sound, ROL does not rotate either just center light on). I tried checking via AV and HDMI cables to see if Xell was loading in a different output but nothing. What I used to hear and do not because I think it was me trying to re-install Xell (never messed with Xell in the past) is the crickety sound that someone else reported in the thread below, I used to hear that all the time. I read that it could have also been the LDV (Lock Down Value) so I tried changing that but I have no idea if it worked, I also tried used the last known good RGH and Stock Reatil versions I had 17150 but neither one works. I have spent about 10-15 hours flashing different and clean RGH versions of nands through J-Runner but I am stuck on this one. This console also used to take a few extra seconds to boot sometimes if it wasn't connected to power for long periods of time.


Similar Issue : https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/corona-demon-nand-xell-not-booting-retail-fine.1497911/


Any help is appreciated, this console will eventually be sold off as I no longer have a need for modified consoles, just trying to get it running for the next person to enjoy.
 
Lucky

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You do have a JRP? Do you remember if it is a 4gb or a 16mb nand corona motherboard?
I’m not experienced with Demond dual nand consoles, but I’m learning about standard RGH consoles on my free time as a hobby. This issue perplexes me in a way I want to dive into the realm of demon boards in all honesty.
How comfortable are you with soldering? Rather, touching the solder points on the motherboard to ensure a good connection?
https://www.se7ensins.com/forums/threads/rgh-demon-not-booting.1734115/
Post automatically merged:

Unfortunately due to TX going offline from Nintendo lawsuits - everyone is at a slight disadvantage now a days compared to back just a few years ago. But, that doesn’t mean it’s un fixable.
 
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kuji

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Thanks Lucky Lucky ,

I got some pictures I will upload soon, the post you shared seems very similar as well. I have the 16MB board for sure as this does not have the 4GB onboard storage. My un-hacked nand does flash to both the demon and retail side and boots, but the hacked version when it installs does not boot on either side so It's weird if it's a loose connection (again could be wrong but everything was pretty solid on there). I don't have the best soldering skill's (mostly work on larger components) but if it's a larger point I can re-heat or add solder.

Actually now that you mention the JRP, I believe I saw it on the console when I opened it up on Friday. I will try to connect that way as well. Is there anything different that needs to be done when connecting to it vs the USB port (Demon port) on the back of the console? There was also DIP switches pre-set on the one of the chips (coolrunner 1.0 S Full Post I think).
 
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Thanks Lucky Lucky ,

I got some pictures I will upload soon, the post you shared seems very similar as well. I have the 16MB board for sure as this does not have the 4GB onboard storage. My un-hacked nand does flash to both the demon and retail side and boots, but the hacked version when it installs does not boot on either side so It's weird if it's a loose connection (again could be wrong but everything was pretty solid on there). I don't have the best soldering skill's (mostly work on larger components) but if it's a larger point I can re-heat or add solder.

Actually now that you mention the JRP, I believe I saw it on the console when I opened it up on Friday. I will try to connect that way as well. Is there anything different that needs to be done when connecting to it vs the USB port (Demon port) on the back of the console? There was also DIP switches pre-set on the one of the chips (coolrunner 1.0 S Full Post I think).
Off the top of my head, I have not really dove into Demon enough to give you a proper answer.
I will try to do some research tonight when I get home and see.

For the most part, the solder points are small... Not micro-soldering small (assuming it's S-RGH method), but definitely small. If you're not comfortable doing it, don't. It'll be cheaper and easier to do a send-in repair than buying a new motherboard.

I will say, I also have a console from the 2013-2014 era... My boards solder points were horrendous. I pulled the case apart and was disgusted! I had to do 2-3 trace repairs and wound up updating my glitch method from standard RGH2 using Coolrunner RevD to Ace v3 S-RGH. Just because it was professional doesn't mean it's quality :wink:. If you can post pictures of the solder points around the board it will be helpful to determine if it's worth your time trying to re-touch with a solder iron.
 
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Sorry for the delay, been busy. I have bad news, the console stopped booting in general now with multiple PSU's showing a red light on them when attempting to turn the console on. This could possibly have been me accidently over tightening some of the x-clamp screws (although I tried not too) or maybe I shorted something. I will not attempt soldering as I do not have the popper equipment for that.

Anyhow before this I realized I have the JRP connections on the board to connect one but I no longer have the actual USB device that connects to it (sold it off many years ago). There was however a micro-USB port on the Demon itself, but flashing it did nothing but the same thing as connecting it via the standard USB port extension that comes with it. I also did manually toggle the switch from PC - Xbox but nothing. The light on the Coolrunner was flashing when attempting to boot the RGH nand I created so something is going on.

I will update again with the pictures I took as well as try to figure out what I did to make this stop booting. Hopefully it's a simple fix as I really really really hate taking this thing apart.
 
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Sorry for the delay, been busy. I have bad news, the console stopped booting in general now with multiple PSU's showing a red light on them when attempting to turn the console on. This could possibly have been me accidently over tightening some of the x-clamp screws (although I tried not too) or maybe I shorted something. I will not attempt soldering as I do not have the popper equipment for that.

Anyhow before this I realized I have the JRP connections on the board to connect one but I no longer have the actual USB device that connects to it (sold it off many years ago). There was however a micro-USB port on the Demon itself, but flashing it did nothing but the same thing as connecting it via the standard USB port extension that comes with it. I also did manually toggle the switch from PC - Xbox but nothing. The light on the Coolrunner was flashing when attempting to boot the RGH nand I created so something is going on.

I will update again with the pictures I took as well as try to figure out what I did to make this stop booting. Hopefully it's a simple fix as I really really really hate taking this thing apart.
Hey bud,
Here's a top down for you:

First things first, the Demon has a light on it for when you're in "RGH" mode using the Demon nand. If the light isn't lit, the RGH chip itself should actually be disabled, so a RGH build nand will not run under any circumstances on your console's stock nand chip. When writing the RGH nands, make sure the RGH Nand is selected.

If the nand selection light is lit and you're sure it's a RGH2 build nand, there's a few things you must do;
in J-Runner, your nand must be built using the latest booting stock nand so the LDVs match (this eliminates potential LDV issues): An extremely common issue to see is that RGH stops booting after you updated the stock side, this is because most updates pushed via Live update the LDV Values every time an update is installed (excluding if you have to install the avatar/kinect updates on a newly flashed RGH nand).

Once you've built a new image based on the latest nand read from the retail nand side, and flashed it, try booting again and pay attention to your RGH Chip, it should flash every time it cycles (and you should hear the fan speed change each time it does).

RE the console stopping booting and PSUs instantly showing red light, you've either: Overtightened the xclamps resulting in the demon resting against the metal chassis OR squashed a wire. Check everything over to ensure no demon or rgh chip wires are loose or squashed, especially where the case screws go through the board. I've done this too many times and thought I've fried it lol

Best way to try it is to take the motherboard out of the metal case and try booting that way. If you don't get the red dot on the PSU any more then the bottom of the board (or the demon) is shorting against the metal shell. You can put some non conductive, thin tape over the demon and any of it's points + any solder joints to protect the console from this happening and I strongly recommend it!

Lucky Lucky my boy, DM me on the Discords if you have any Qs about the Demons. I'm happy to hand over some knowledge :wink:
Post automatically merged:

Oh and one last thing whilst we're on the topic of Demons:
Never, ever, ever, power the console on if you have the micro USB connected or the Demon switched to pc mode (the tiny switch on the demon board itself).
Make sure the little switch is switched to Xbox before you try booting.
You will fry the Demon if you boot with USB connected or the switch is on PC mode.
 
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Thank You xXBeefyDjXx xXBeefyDjXx !

I think I'll take a swing at it this weekend and will update again. I generally always write my nands to the RGH chip to not disturb the Xbox side. The light does come on but I believe it was the fan I do not hear changing anymore. I pulled a few reads on the latest retail nand and attempted to create new RGH2 builds but I still had the same issue. Here are some photos below, I will take a look into adjusting the xclamps as I know I had that issue before on the OG 360's back in the day very common. Below are some pictures I took (a lot to be thorough).

https://www.mediafire.com/view/dclmncmero8yube/1.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/9pwe8pjpi0smi04/2.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/d5grc7nxp4qde6z/3.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/mxh99ku4v8x3t9t/4.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/4bt939klqtg6wnf/5.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/lvs0zxewucj8nsu/6.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/142wcbrrkpainuf/7.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/icyz37b9z6w08fj/8.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/n9cfv41ctgx3s6s/9.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/8niwmy4c9nnsf23/10.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/qmldv02833cpl67/11.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/g2ymp6njogg54tc/12.png/file
 
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Thank You xXBeefyDjXx xXBeefyDjXx !

I think I'll take a swing at it this weekend and will update again. I generally always write my nands to the RGH chip to not disturb the Xbox side. The light does come on but I believe it was the fan I do not hear changing anymore. I pulled a few reads on the latest retail nand and attempted to create new RGH2 builds but I still had the same issue. Here are some photos below, I will take a look into adjusting the xclamps as I know I had that issue before on the OG 360's back in the day very common. Below are some pictures I took (a lot to be thorough).

https://www.mediafire.com/view/dclmncmero8yube/1.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/9pwe8pjpi0smi04/2.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/d5grc7nxp4qde6z/3.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/mxh99ku4v8x3t9t/4.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/4bt939klqtg6wnf/5.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/lvs0zxewucj8nsu/6.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/142wcbrrkpainuf/7.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/icyz37b9z6w08fj/8.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/n9cfv41ctgx3s6s/9.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/8niwmy4c9nnsf23/10.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/qmldv02833cpl67/11.png/file
https://www.mediafire.com/view/g2ymp6njogg54tc/12.png/file
That's honestly one of the cleanest installs I have ever seen, hats off!

I can say without hesitation it's not likely to be any joint issues. It's more than likely that the console is overtightened and some points are bridging against the chassis.
If untightening the board doesn't help, take it out and run it outside the chassis to be sure that is not the case. If not we'll need to re-evaluate your nand readings if the console can boot stock still.
 
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