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KingTM

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So I have soldered in my JR Programmer V2 to all the correct solder points, I have re-soldered 4 times and installed the drivers also, but when I plug the Xbox power cable in and connect the jr programmer to my pc and open JRunner, I hit the “?” Beside “motherboard” and I get the flash config 0x00000000, can not continue error, I’m using the 0.3v beta and have the dashes installed, I’m using 17559 as that’s my Xbox version I don’t have the ace v3 chip soldered in yet as i am just trying to read n write the nans, I will attach images also of soldering and error message
 
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and7320

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I ran into the same problem and it's your soldering. I thought mine looked good too and after trying to surface solder to the J2C1 and J2C3 pin headers about 4 times it kept giving me the same error. My fix was to completely clean the factory solder out of the pin header using a solder sucker and a safety pin with the iron. Once I got the holes cleaned out, I inserted the JRPv2 wires directly inside, soldered, and the next try was successful. You should also make new wire ends as those look pretty scraggly. Make the exposed areas about 3mm long, twist the ends, and tin them. It looks like they frayed apart when the solder melted which will also cause a bad connection.

Also, that yellow wire should be soldered to the header under orange.

Code:
Good 16mb nand tutorial from weekendmodder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNAilMpJaK4
 
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I ran into the same problem and it's your soldering. I thought mine looked good too and after trying to surface solder to the J2C1 and J2C3 pin headers about 4 times it kept giving me the same error. My fix was to completely clean the factory solder out of the pin header using a solder sucker and a safety pin with the iron. Once I got the holes cleaned out, I inserted the JRPv2 wires directly inside, soldered, and the next try was successful. You should also make new wire ends as those look pretty scraggly. Make the exposed areas about 3mm long, twist the ends, and tin them. It looks like they frayed apart when the solder melted which will also cause a bad connection.

Also, that yellow wire should be soldered to the header under orange.

Code:
Good 16mb nand tutorial from weekendmodder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNAilMpJaK4
how would I connect a pin to the solder iron? Wouldn’t it melt it as it it’s really hot? New to this stuff so idk haha andshoukr I not pre tin the pads and instead just put the wire into the hole on the pad and then solder it with the wire in the pad?
 
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how would I connect a pin to the solder iron? Wouldn’t it melt it as it it’s really hot? New to this stuff so idk haha andshoukr I not pre tin the pads and instead just put the wire into the hole on the pad and then solder it with the wire in the pad?
When I did it I held the pin in one hand and the iron with the other. At the proper temp it only takes a 1 or 2 second touch from the iron to melt the solder so the pin never gets very hot. If it does just wrap an end in electrical tape to hold. But it will get stuck in the hole at times and you will have to reheat the solder to remove it. Basically you want to remove as much solder as possible that you currently. In order for the proper connection to occur, the solder you apply needs to melt as well as liquefy the factory solder so they both flow together and form a connection. My guess is that factory solder has a slightly higher melting temp than what we use and therefore has a more difficult time bonding.

To answer your last question, yes. Doing hat forms a better connection to the motherboard.
 
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When I did it I held the pin in one hand and the iron with the other. At the proper temp it only takes a 1 or 2 second touch from the iron to melt the solder so the pin never gets very hot. If it does just wrap an end in electrical tape to hold. But it will get stuck in the hole at times and you will have to reheat the solder to remove it. Basically you want to remove as much solder as possible that you currently. In order for the proper connection to occur, the solder you apply needs to melt as well as liquefy the factory solder so they both flow together and form a connection. My guess is that factory solder has a slightly higher melting temp than what we use and therefore has a more difficult time bonding.

To answer your last question, yes. Doing hat forms a better connection to the motherboard.
thank you, I’m going to try and use the end of a needle I use to inject flux as that will fit andill wrap electrical tape around it, in positive that won’t melt so I’ll maybe even attach it to the end of the iron for a few minutesbut that is I’ll be a last resort if holding it doesn’t work l, I’ll update later, thank you bro
 
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thank you, I’m going to try and use the end of a needle I use to inject flux as that will fit andill wrap electrical tape around it, in positive that won’t melt so I’ll maybe even attach it to the end of the iron for a few minutesbut that is I’ll be a last resort if holding it doesn’t work l, I’ll update later, thank you bro
No problem. I think a small paper clip should work too..like the size you'd use to eject a sim card. Just use a solder sucker or braid first to remove some of your existing solder since there's a lot there. It helps having a 2nd person unless you have super steady hands. Definitely follow weekendmodders 16mb corona tutorials on youtube. He knows his stuff. Good luck
 
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No problem. I think a small paper clip should work too..like the size you'd use to eject a sim card. Just use a solder sucker or braid first to remove some of your existing solder since there's a lot there. It helps having a 2nd person unless you have super steady hands. Definitely follow weekendmodders 16mb corona tutorials on youtube. He knows his stuff. Good luck
I have the brown metal type stuff you apply flux into and then sit it in the solder n use the iron n it sucks all the solder into the brown metal wire thing, brilliant will take all the solder of easy and I’ll use a iPhone sim eject tool to get the remains in the hole
 
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Nice, that brown metal thing is called a braid. You should be all set. Just def follow the video I recommended. That yellow wire should not be grounded to the case :wink:
 
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Nice, that brown metal thing is called a braid. You should be all set. Just def follow the video I recommended. That yellow wire should not be grounded to the case :wink:
That’s the video I was using but he solders too fast so really hard to see exactly what he’s doing but I get the basics of it all now haha and yea all set to go :smile: as for the yellow I heard some people saying to try ground it to the metal parts of the case lmao
 
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That’s the video I was using but he solders too fast so really hard to see exactly what he’s doing but I get the basics of it all now haha and yea all set to go :smile: as for the yellow I heard some people saying to try ground it to the metal parts of the case lmao
I'd keep the yellow wire on the header under orange :smile: Also, did you verify you have a v1 and will not need a post fix adapter? The only way to know for sure is to remove the heatsink and look for traces on the motherboard. Removing the xclamp is a b**** and then you will need thermal paste to reinstall the heatsink. Just giving you a heads up for what may be ahead. Or you can just skip that step and hope for the best. The presence of a resistor on the board and a 2011 manufacture date are good indicators you have a v1 and don't need a post fix.
 
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I'd keep the yellow wire on the header under orange :smile: Also, did you verify you have a v1 and will not need a post fix adapter? The only way to know for sure is to remove the heatsink and look for traces on the motherboard. Removing the xclamp is a b**** and then you will need thermal paste to reinstall the heatsink. Just giving you a heads up for what may be ahead. Or you can just skip that step and hope for the best. The presence of a resistor on the board and a 2011 manufacture date are good indicators you have a v1 and don't need a post fix.
I baught a B2 Post fix to be safe but I beleive I do as R2c6 and 7 is just a small little solder ball while the other points have stuff on them, what resistor should I look out for? And is it 100% necessary to re-apply thermal paste as I don’t have that, would I get away without it? And do I need to remove the heat sink to apply the post fix adapter?
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I'd keep the yellow wire on the header under orange :smile: Also, did you verify you have a v1 and will not need a post fix adapter? The only way to know for sure is to remove the heatsink and look for traces on the motherboard. Removing the xclamp is a b**** and then you will need thermal paste to reinstall the heatsink. Just giving you a heads up for what may be ahead. Or you can just skip that step and hope for the best. The presence of a resistor on the board and a 2011 manufacture date are good indicators you have a v1 and don't need a post fix.
Yo do you think this is okay? I’ve not tested yet just about to after my cigarette but I have tined the wires, inserted them into the pods and then ironed them no bridging and still to clean the left over flux
Post automatically merged:

I baught a B2 Post fix to be safe but I beleive I do as R2c6 and 7 is just a small little solder ball while the other points have stuff on them, what resistor should I look out for? And is it 100% necessary to re-apply thermal paste as I don’t have that, would I get away without it? And do I need to remove the heat sink to apply the post fix adapter?
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Yo do you think this is okay? I’ve not tested yet just about to after my cigarette but I have tined the wires, inserted them into the pods and then ironed them no bridging and still to clean the left over flux
 
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I baught a B2 Post fix to be safe but I beleive I do as R2c6 and 7 is just a small little solder ball while the other points have stuff on them, what resistor should I look out for? And is it 100% necessary to re-apply thermal paste as I don’t have that, would I get away without it? And do I need to remove the heat sink to apply the post fix adapter?
The resistors are at R2C6 and R2C7 in the area that your green wire is passing over. Iy looks like they're not present. And yes, thermal paste is 100% required if you remove the heatsink. Otherwise the heat won't properly transfer to the heatsink and you'll burn out your cpu chip. Plus keep in mind that stuff is 8 yeas old and gets dried out. That's why older consoles overheat and get RROD. For the paste, get arctic silver.
 
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The resistors are at R2C6 and R2C7 in the area that your green wire is passing over. It looks like you might have them. And yes, thermal paste is 100% required if you remove the heatsink. Otherwise the heat won't properly transfer to the heatsink and you'll burn out your cpu chip. Plus keep in mind that stuff is 8 yeas old and gets dried out. That's why older consoles overheat and get RROD. If you choose to do a repaste in the future, get the arctic silver stuff.

The start of this video shows the resistor location.
Code:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYxtXQHRMmI
can you look at previous post regarding the soldering? Thank you, also I’ve sent a image here if that section, I can’t acctually tell it I have the resistors or not haha


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can you look at previous post regarding the soldering? Thank you, also I’ve sent a image here if that section, I can’t acctually tell it I have the resistors or not haha

Yep still same error message, the soldering looks fairly decent too so idk what could be the issue if I’m honest, maybe I have jr programmer set up wrong? Also When I have the jr programme connected and then insert the power cable the jr programmer gives off a red flash 1 time
 
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Sorry, I edited my reply to say you don't have them. Reread my edit
 
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Sorry, I edited my reply to say you don't have them. Reread my edit
Ahhh so glad I baught the post fix adapter then haha, I have done the re soldering and still having that same issue, wired are tined, inserted in and then ironed into place, using flux Ofc so it sticks, the jr programmer flashed red once when I have it connected to the Xbox and then insert power cable, I’m not sure what’s going wrong if I’m honest, maybe my soldering skills are just god awful 😂 but looks fine to my eye
Post automatically merged:

Sorry, I edited my reply to say you don't have them. Reread my edit
Ahhh so I connected Xbox power while the jr programmer was NOT connected and then connected it and now I get a new error saying


checking console
Version:00
Wrong Version
Can Not continue
 
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So yeah, you will need the postfix and in order to install it, you will have to pop off the xclamp which is a pain. And then you will need thermal paste to put the heatsink back on. Without new thermal paste you will have an overheating 360. Get a little syringe of arctic silver.

For the xclamp, to remove it you have to unhook each corner from each peg. IF you're really careful you can use needle nose pliers to unbend the short part that hooks over the peg. Then pinch it shut again to put it back on. Or put a flathead screw driver in the gap of the hook that goes around the peg and use a twisting motion to expand it. That's what confused me. All videos make it look like the clamp pops up with enough force, but they're actually spreading the little hook shaped gap so it pops out. I Hope that makes sense. Just don't put the screwdriver against the motherboard as that will end with a fail.
 
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So yeah, you will need the postfix and in order to install it, you will have to pop off the xclamp which is a pain. And then you will need thermal paste to put the heatsink back on. Without new thermal paste you will have an overheating 360. Get a little syringe of arctic silver.

For the xclamp, to remove it you have to unhook each corner from each peg. IF you're really careful you can use needle nose pliers to unbend the short part that hooks over the peg. Then pinch it shut again to put it back on. Or put a flathead screw driver in the gap of the hook that goes around the peg and use a twisting motion to expand it. That's what confused me. All videos make it look like the clamp pops up with enough force, but they're actually spreading the little hook shaped gap so it pops out. I Hope that makes sense. Just don't put the screwdriver against the motherboard as that will end with a fail.
Weekend modder does a good postfix install video so I’ll follow him, and I stopped getting the flash config error after I plugged the jr programmer into the Xbox after I plugged the power in, but I’m getting wrong version error now lmao
 
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Ahhh so glad I baught the post fix adapter then haha, I have done the re soldering and still having that same issue, wired are tined, inserted in and then ironed into place, using flux Ofc so it sticks, the jr programmer flashed red once when I have it connected to the Xbox and then insert power cable, I’m not sure what’s going wrong if I’m honest, maybe my soldering skills are just god awful 😂 but looks fine to my eye
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Ahhh so I connected Xbox power while the jr programmer was NOT connected and then connected it and now I get a new error saying


checking console
Version:00
Wrong Version
Can Not continue
Does jrunner say device present and all that good stuff? Does the jrprogrammer have a green light? There are so many things that have to be just right and done in the correct order for it to work.

Try in this order: Usb plugged into pc and jrprogrammer, plug power into xbox, connect jrprogrammer to xbox. Also there has to be a green light on the programmer. If not, while it's plugged into just pc, try flipping the switch to the position away from from the usb plug, then hit the reset button next to that switch, and then put the switch back to the position closer to usb. Also make sure you have the most current jrunner. I don't know what it is off hand but weekendmodder has a download in one of his video descriptions. There is also an option in jrunner to flash the programmer and the flash file is in the jrunner folder. There's a procedure to this though so look it up.

I had to figure all this stuff out to get mine to work but after several frustrating hours I got it to go. Don't give up
 
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Does jrunner say device present and all that good stuff? Does the jrprogrammer have a green light? There are so many things that have to be just right and done in the correct order for it to work.

Try in this order: Usb plugged into pc and jrprogrammer, plug power into xbox, connect jrprogrammer to xbox. Also there has to be a green light on the programmer. If not, while it's plugged into just pc, try flipping the switch to the position away from from the usb plug, then hit the reset button next to that switch, and then put the switch back to the position closer to usb. Also make sure you have the most current jrunner. I don't know what it is off hand but weekendmodder has a download in one of his video descriptions. There is also an option in jrunner to flash the programmer and the flash file is in the jrunner folder. There's a procedure to this though so look it up.

I had to figure all this stuff out to get mine to work but after several frustrating hours I got it to go. Don't give up
Yes there’s a green light I’m using v0.3 I got it from weeekend modder a video 😂 but I don’t think that’s the most current up to date version I am going to look for the new on n see if that works
 
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Yes there’s a green light I’m using v0.3 I got it from weeekend modder a video 😂 but I don’t think that’s the most current up to date version I am going to look for the new on n see if that works
I just found my JRPv2 and the switch positions should both be flipped so they're both pointed to the outside. When I was trying to figure out my issue I had also read that some usb cables can also cause a problem
 
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