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Solved Ace v3 and Trinity Soldering Help, Rgh wont glitch

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manatee2077

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So I bought an ace v3 that is confirmed working on trinities by theweekendmodder and whenever I try to boot into xell to get my cpu key, I get 2 short blinks and 1 long blink on my chip. I've tried the recommended timing file and different ones but it still won't boot to xell. My soldering goes as follows.
5v, e, f, and ground

C and D

 
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rynax

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What files youve tried?
 
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rynax

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300MHz TR_L_0.6_T_60.6 works the best for the fake board and 300MHz TR_L_0.5_T_60.6 works the best for the real one, according to my experience.
Try both.

But first of all, you need to make your
 
D wire short, really short. Trinity is very sensitive on this one's length, short one gives great booting time.
 
Other things:
Use sticker tape to protect the soldering, the pads are very easy to be ripped off;

You need to use shorter exposed wire end, the one you've done is too long, that is not optimum,might short to nearby or has bad interference.

The chip you used is clearly a fake one, check here http://x360ace.com/beware-of-fake-x360ace-v3/
It should also work, but buy from elsewhere next time.
 
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manatee2077

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Tried those all. Weekend Modder said these chips were garunteed on trinities. I bought a newer one from ebay and it was legit but didn't work on my trinity. Anything else that could help?
 
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rynax

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Have shortened the D wire?
 
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manatee2077

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Yep I shortened D and C. C also has less exposed now
 
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rynax

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Only D needs to be really short, C doesn't matter.

If this doesn't help, double check you've written the ECC correctly.

Next is redo all your soldering, use flux and make sure the exposed part is short.

Still no boot, disconnect the VCC/GND wire from the chip end, write the original nand back to see if the console still works, if it doesn't then you might have damaged the console somewhere
 
Also you want to tidy up your wires position, don't let your D wire go through the other wires and making cross
let it go through the top of the board without any cross
 
use a multi-meter to check your D point on the board has good continuity to C5R11 one.
The D point you use FT2R4 is an alternative to C5R11 and they shall have near 0 resistance value when been checked.
Search C5R11 to get an idea where it is, it's under the x clamp and you'll able to reach it and test without taking the clamp off.
 
Take a new photo to show us your work after you've tidied up everything
 
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manatee2077

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Will do. I’ll post results here in an hour or so
 
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manatee2077

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So can you tell me how to correctly write the ecc? I can boot back to retail no problem, and here's my fixed soldering
points c and d
 
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Newsk

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realistically you don't want any exposed copper at all on your connections . start with 1mm or less exposed copper. But, i dont think thats why its noit booting. Those particular aces are garbage. I got stuck with a ton of them last year when they first popped up. I certainly wouldnt sell them to anybody. you have to start going thru all the timings to get one to work. In some cases switching the crystal for a known good one helps and enables you to use the "normal" timing files. If i were you i would either get a matrix or a rev d and switch to muffin install or order some aces from a better source. Its a shame people are still passing those chips on to you guys.

but of-coarse remove 5v from chip and write stock nand so you know the console still boots, first.
 
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manatee2077

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realistically you don't want any exposed copper at all on your connections . start with 1mm or less exposed copper. But, i dont think thats why its noit booting. Those particular aces are garbage. I got stuck with a ton of them last year when they first popped up. I certainly wouldnt sell them to anybody. you have to start going thru all the timings to get one to work. In some cases switching the crystal for a known good one helps and enables you to use the "normal" timing files. If i were you i would either get a matrix or a rev d and switch to muffin install or order some aces from a better source. Its a shame people are still passing those chips on to you guys.

but of-coarse remove 5v from chip and write stock nand so you know the console still boots, first.
I bought a CoolRunner Rev C so I’ll see where that gets me.
 
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