Wireless rapid fire controller

[SPARTANsonny]

Rapid Fire Wireless Controller for Xbox 360 Tutorial

This is not my tutorial but I did go over it and fix all the errors that the original person did, originally it written by phlsphr420. He wrote up a dual rapid fire mod for left and right trigger but I see no point in the left trigger being rapid fire personally so I changed this one up to only do the right trigger.This does take some basic soldering skill and patience to perform this mod. Please read carefully at first, read again if your confused and than make sure you have a spare controller to do it on. Sorry about the fuzzy pics but I used his pics because I had none that I should have taken. Full auto Deagle and Barrett .50 cal's are alot of fun but use at your own discretion people will be asking you how you did it... just tell them really fast trigger fingers and if you get booted for this I take no responsibility. This will not help your skill in any game at all, it is a form of cheating so don't get mad when people call you out on it cuz it will happen. Also this tut is for older wireless controllers, when you take the controller apart and look at the chips on the pcb the older ones have two chips on it and the newer ones have a single chip turned 45 degrees like a diamond.
For reference, here is cparsell's schematic. There is one mistake in the schematic; it doesn't show that pin 2 of the chip is connected to pin 6 of the chip.

Tools necessary:
Solder Iron
Dremel (preferably)
Torx T8 security screwdriver. NOTE: I couldn’t get find a security screwdriver locally, so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to break the center posts of the screws. I was then able to use my regular T8 screwdriver to take out the screws.

Parts necessary.....Radio Shack identification number
TLC555 Timer.....276-1718
10K ohm resistor.....
1.8K ohm resistor.....I used a 2.2k ohm resistor instead Radio shack doesn't sell any of 1.8k resistors
220 ohm resistor.....
100K ohm potentiometer.....271-284
1uF tantalum capacitor.....272-1434
100pF capacitor.....272-135
Push button switch.....275-0646
NPN switching transistor.....276-1617
Breadboard.....276-159
Wire (personally, I used wire from a scrapped USB cable) if you don't wanna use scrap usb than use 30 awg (gauge) wire

**I couldn't find these specific transistors at my local Radio Shack, I used the "general purpose" PNP transistors they they had in stock. They still worked, but I'm not sure if the ones listed above will work better.

Getting Started
NOTE: The breadboard will come in a pack of two, connected. First, I suggest separating them. I used my Dremel. I’m not sure if that is what “pro’s” suggest, but it worked for me.
NOTE: For ease of understanding I will use an alphanumeric labeling system when referring to holes on the breadboard. Ignore the holes on the perimeter of the breadboard. Ignoring them, you should see two rows on the breadboard. Each row is three holes by ten holes. Lay the breadboard on your work surface with the trace side facing down and the rows going vertical, so you see one row on the left and one row on the right. Take a writing utensil and mark the top left dot. That dot will be A1. The dot to the right of that will be B1, to the right of that, C1, and so on. Each column will be a letter and each row will be a number, so the bottom right dot will be F10.

1. Solder the TLC555 timer into the breadboard with pin 1 of the chip in hole C4. Make sure that when you solder the timer onto the board you are soldering it with the chip, as well as all other components/wires, on the side of the board that doesn’t have the traces. It should be common sense, but I like to make sure I cover the simple mistakes, as those are the ones that really get people most the time.

2. Solder a wire connecting pins B4 and B3. I used a black wire, for ground.

3. Solder a wire connecting C3 and D3. Again, I used a black wire for ground.

4. Solder a wire connecting B5 and E6. I used an white wire in the picture.

5. Solder a wire connecting B7 and E4. I used a red wire, for power.
[imghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/phlsphr/HPIM0749.jpg[/img]
6. Solder a four inch long wire to E5. I used another white wire in the picture. I also have the NPN transistor on the board in the picture. You can leave that off for now, that was just a mistake I made while taking pictures. The transistor will get put on in the next step and I also put it in backwards

7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the away from the center of the board, as shown in the picture.Actually, sorry...my bad it should be facing towards the center of the board
8. Solder another four inch long wire to F6. I used a white wire in the picture.

9. Solder the 100pF capacitor into E3 and E7.

continued...
10. Solder the 220 ohm resistor into C2 and D2.

11. Solder the 1.8K ohm resistor(or your 2.2k resistor) into C1 and D1.


12. Solder the 10K ohm resistor into F4 and F5.

13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A5 and the negative side into a4.

14. Solder a four inch long wire to B2. I used a green, for trigger.


15. Solder a four inch long wire to B1. Again, I used green, for trigger.

16. Solder a four inch long wire to A3. I used black, for ground.

17. Solder a four inch long wire to B6. I used green, for trigger.

18. Solder a seven inch long wire to A7. I used red, for power.

19. Flip the circuit board over and use a sharpie to draw a square around the holes of the board that you used. This will be your guide for when you are cutting the board down to size to fit inside the controller.

20. Your finished right trigger circuit board should look like this…

Installing the pushbuttons and the potentiometer
1. Take the controller apart and be careful not to ruin anything inside of the controller. Be gentle here with it.
2. Remove the “rumbler” from the controller’s circuit board on the right side.
3. Using a Dremel (preferably) cut all supports for the rumbler out of the casing. This should provide more than enough room for your nearly finished mod. Here are the front and back, post-cut...Just cut the right side of the controller and keep your left rumbler in place...only remove the right side rumbler


^notice that I'd already cut one of the holes for the right trigger's pushbutton. That is the next step...
4. You should see two circles on the inside of the back of the controller casing. I used those as guides for where to put my pushbuttons. They aren’t perfect, but they’re damn closed. Using a Dremel, drill holes into the back of the controller’s casing to allow you to install the pushbuttons. If you want a nice looking end result, I suggest you go slow and steady, comparing your progress with the pushbuttons often to ensure you don’t overcut. If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod then only drill the hole in the right side of the controller.


5. Using a Dremel, cut another hole just below the hole you drilled for the right trigger’s rapid fire button. This hole will be for the potentiometer, so you don’t have to open the controller every time you want to adjust it. Again, go slow and compare often to ensure you have a good looking end result. The picture for this step is above, with the picture of the hole for the right trigger button.
6. Put the pushbuttons into the holes, installing them from the outside and using the captive lock-washers to keep them tight and in place.
7. The potentiometer should have three legs, two on one side and one on the other. Clip one of the legs on the side that has two.

8. Some more experienced may disagree with my following method, but it worked for me, mostly because I was extremely careful. If someone has a better method, I am very willing to learn it. To install the potentiometer, I put superglue around the hole that I’d drilled for it. I then gently held the potentiometer on the hole with the adjustable side facing the exterior of the shell of the controller and the pin side facing in, ensuring that I got no superglue onto the white portion (adjustable part) of the potentiometer. I continued to hold it until it dried. You can also use hot glue if you careful on where you glue it. Just don't get it on the adjustable part of the trimmer.
Installing the right trigger circuit board
NOTE: Trim each wire as necessary, to ensure you don’t end up with a “spaghetti mess” of wires in your controller, before soldering.[/color]
1. Solder the wire from B2 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the pushbutton for your right trigger
2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.
3. Solder the wire from E5 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the potentiometer/trimmer
4. Solder the wire from F6 of the circuit board to the remaining lead of the potentiometer/trimmer. You should now have two wires soldered to the potentiometer, one on each side of it, not two wires on both sides. Remember, I instructed you to cut one of the two leads that are on one side of the potentiometer in Step 7 of Installing the pushbuttons and potentiometer. Your project should now look something like this:

5. Solder the wire from A7 to the Power point of the controller’s circuit board.

6. Solder the wire from B3 to the Ground point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In my picture it is the point with the black wire soldered to it on the right hand side of the controller.

7. Solder the wire from B1 to the Trigger point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In the picture in step 6 above, it is the point with the green wire soldered to it on the right side of the controller’s circuit board, just below the black one mentioned in step 5.
Reassemble the controller carefully, making sure to avoid pinching any of your wires
And there you have it. You should now have a fully-functional rapid fire controller. Simply adjust the potentiometer as necessary for the setting you feel comfortable with.

[hovi]

This tutorial is a really different and a lot harder than the ones that i have found. i have them saved, but it takes a long time to make post them....dont got time.

[SPARTANsonny]

Give links to them than if you want too. This is what I used and its not hard at all. Just time consuming if you've never soldered before. Are the ones you find made from scratch or premade for you in kits?

[hovi]

its with a kit....heres the tut i found.

http://www.consolecustoms.net/auctio...l_new_8pin.pdf

[SPARTANsonny]

That is easier than doing what I did but thats because they give you a preprogrammed chip that does the same function but in a different way. I only posted this tut so people can use it if they don't wanna spend the money on a kit like that. Whichever way you'll still be doing some fine soldering.

[xBigDaddy0x]

thanks to both of you guys their both very helpful

[DragonforceXSV]

hey i bought all the stuff i need for this at circuit city this my first time really doing anything this serious with my xbox i've done case mods but this is much more difficult.

um lol im nooby but if my breadbord is not the same as yours would i still use the same alphanumeric system? -edit i know i cant. But could i translate yours to mine somehow?

this is the breadbord i bought it is abcdef 1-30 and each letter has 5

The Source By Circuit City : PC Board/Sockets - UNIVERSAL PC BOARD

also this is the only 100k ohm potentiometer they had... im fairly sure now that i looked over the tutorial it wont work with this mod right?

The Source By Circuit City : Pots/Controls - AUDIO TAPER POTENTIOMETER

um if you guys say these will work ill start my mod tonight i just need my dad to come home so i can find the soldering iron.

p.s ive been looking at your forums for a while but i havent had anything to ask untill now.
thanks again Dragon

Um really i just need to know how im supposed to translate the alphanumeric system you used on your bord to mine and if i can use the potentiometer i have



Thanks Dragon

[SPARTANsonny]

If you really wanted to you could use that board but it would be way easier if you just bought the parts from a radioshack instead. That PC breadboard is huge first of all and I'm not sure if the copper matches up like the one I posted and that Potentiometer would stick out from the backside like a sore thumb and doesn't have the right voltage for this application. Honestly just buy evrything from your local radioshack and use those parts, it will make it easier on you in the long run.

[DragonforceXSV]

There is no radio shack by me all canadian stores changed to the source by circit city they dont stock the breadbord you used they also dont stock the same potentiometers all of them there were as big or larger then mine. I have everything i need except these two items. Um i could return them but i really wouldnt know where else to look do anyother chains like radioshack carry them? Ill check out how much the shipping cost etc if im going to be shipping from the usa but im hopeing i can find something local.



Edit looked at the website they dont ship to canada :/

update: ive found a ride to barrie (the nearest city) so im going to look for an electronics shop and find the right potentiometer also ill look for a diffrent breadbord but what kind do i need exactaly? just one with out the copper on the back?

thanks dragon

[SPARTANsonny]

No, you need one with copper on the back, you just need to find one that mathces what i used. Its a two piece breadboard that you snap in half, if you look at the pics you should be able to get a good image in your head on what you need. Sorry I can't help anymore than that but you live to far away for me to help alot If anything go to radishacks website http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103799&cp= take a copy of the picture and see if you can find something similar.

[hovi]

Ya. What im going to do for sure, is buy the used controller off ebay, then but the kit for 30$ do the solderin myself....i got the solderin gun that is small and cools fast i cant remember what its called, and do it myself...im kind of interested in gettin and adjustable one though.

do you know anything about that?

[DragonforceXSV]

ok thank you spartan i guess ill just copy the picture of the potentiometer aswell damm stupid project costing me alotmore then i though it would.

Lol. thanks for all the help hopefully i find these items!

ill post with how it goes in barrie when i get back tommorow.

Thanks again Dragon

[SPARTANsonny]

No problem dragon, goodluck to you.

Quote: Originally Posted by hovi

Ya. What im going to do for sure, is buy the used controller off ebay, then but the kit for 30$ do the solderin myself....i got the solderin gun that is small and cools fast i cant remember what its called, and do it myself...im kind of interested in gettin and adjustable one though.

do you know anything about that?

Are you talking about the consolocustoms kit you keep referring to Hovi? I looked at the instructions and it seems really easy to do just make sure you can follow them and not detour from them and you are confident in your soldering so you don't burn up a controller.

[hovi]

well ya, i just am looking for a kit, or some place to purchase the chip that will allow me to adjust it. Im confident in my soldering. With my soldering gun, its pretty hard to mess up.