How to make a rapid fire controller with stuff from radioshack! AKA the hard way

[ChiefJoboo]

Rapid Fire Wireless Controller for Xbox 360 Tutorial(cod4 compatible)


For reference, here is cparsell's schematic. There is one mistake in teh schematic; it doesn't show that pin 2 of the chip is connected to pin 6 of the chip.


Tools necessary:

Solder Iron

Dremel (preferably)

Torx T8 security screwdriver. NOTE: I couldn’t get find a security screwdriver locally, so I just used a small flathead screwdriver to break the center posts of the screws. I was then able to use my regular T8 screwdriver to take out the screws.



Parts necessary.....Radio Shack identification number

TLC555 Timer.....276-1718

10K ohm resistor..... *

100K ohm resistor.....*

1.8K ohm resistor x 2.....*

220 ohm resistor.....*

100 ohm resistor.....*

100K ohm potentiometer.....271-284

1uF tantalum capacitor.....272-1434

100pF capacitor.....272-135

Push button switch x 2.....275-0646

NPN switching transistor.....276-1617

PNP transistor**.....276-1604

Breadboard.....276-159

Diode, type 1N914 x 2.....276-1122

Wire (personally, I used wire from a scrapped USB cable)


*You can find all of these in the resistor 500 pack, Radio Shack number 271-312A
**I couldn't find these specific transistors at my local Radio Shack, I used the "general purpose" PNP transistors they they had in stock. They still worked, but I'm not sure if the ones listed above will work better.


Getting Started

NOTE: The breadboard will come in a pack of two, connected. First, I suggest separating them. I used my Dremel. I’m not sure if that is what “pro’s” suggest, but it worked for me.

NOTE: For ease of understanding I will use an alphanumeric labeling system when referring to holes on the breadboard. Ignore the holes on the perimeter of the breadboard. Ignoring them, you should see two rows on the breadboard. Each row is three holes by ten holes. Lay the breadboard on your work surface with the trace side facing down and the rows going vertical, so you see one row on the left and one row on the right. Take a writing utensil and mark the top left dot. That dot will be A1. The dot to the right of that will be B1, to the right of that, C1, and so on. Each column will be a letter and each row will be a number, so the bottom right dot will be F10.




1. Solder the TLC555 timer into the breadboard with pin 1 of the chip in hole C4. Make sure that when you solder the timer onto the board you are soldering it with the chip, as well as all other components/wires, on the side of the board that doesn’t have the traces. It should be common sense, but I like to make sure I cover the simple mistakes, as those are the ones that really get people most the time.



2. Solder a wire connecting pins B4 and B3. I used a black wire, for ground.




3. Solder a wire connecting C3 and D3. Again, I used a black wire for ground.




4. Solder a wire connecting B5 and E6. I used an white wire in the picture.



5. Solder a wire connecting B7 and E4. I used a red wire, for power.



6. Solder a four inch long wire to E5. I used another white wire in the picture. I also have the NPN transistor on the board in the picture. You can leave that off for now, that was just a mistake I made while taking pictures. The transistor will get put on in the next step.




7. Solder the NPN transistor into F1, F2 and F3. NOTE: The transistor has to go in a certain way. If you look at the back of the package that it came in you should see a diagram showing which pins are the base, emitter and collector. The collector should be soldered into F1, the base into F2 and the emitter into F3. If you threw away the case, then hopefully you got the one listed in the “parts required” list above. If so, then the “round” side of the transistor should be facing the away from the center of the board, as shown in the picture.

8. Solder another four inch long wire to F6. I used a white wire in the picture.




9. Solder the 100pF capacitor into E3 and E7.



continued...

10. Solder the 220 ohm resistor into C2 and D2.



11. Solder the 1.8K ohm resistor into C1 and D1. Look closely and you’ll see that I’d accidentally soldered an 18k ohm instead of a 1.8k ohm. =P



12. Solder the 10K ohm resistor into F4 and F5.




13. Look at your 1uF capacitor. It should have a very small “plus” sign on it. That is the positive side. Solder the 1uF capacitor into A4 and A5, the positive side going into A4.



14. Solder a four inch long wire to B2. I used a green, for trigger.



15. Solder a four inch long wire to B1. Again, I used green, for trigger.




16. Solder a four inch long wire to A3. I used black, for ground.




17. Solder a four inch long wire to B6. I used green, for trigger.




18. Solder a seven inch long wire to A7. I used red, for power.




19. Solder a seven inch long wire to A6. I used green, for trigger. NOTE: If you are not doing the left trigger rapid fire portion of this mod, you may skip this step.





20. Flip the circuit board over and use a sharpie to draw a square around the holes of the board that you used. This will be your guide for when you are cutting the board down to size to fit inside the controller.



21. Your finished right trigger circuit board should look like this…



That completes the right trigger portion of the rapid fire mod’s circuit board. If you are making both the left and right trigger version of the mod, keep reading. If not, skip down to the “Installing the circuit board” section below.

FOR THE LEFT TRIGGER MOD TUT VISIT Rapid Fire Mod For Wireless Xbox 360 Controller - Scenyx Entertainment Community
cause its really taking too long reuping these pix


And there you have it. You should now have a fully-functional rapid fire controller. Simply adjust the potentiometer as necessary for the setting you feel comfortable with.

As far as being banned from live, I contacted MS to ask this via email and got the run-around, was told to call 4MY-XBOX. Did that, got an *American* guy, asked him if using rapid fire controllers on Live would get me banned. Because there are currently two MS licensed rapid fire controllers, he said no. I didn't mention, however, that I was making my own, not using the licensed ones. He did say that some people may complain and might send in player reveiew/complaints, and those might get me banned. Of course, I have a couple friends who got banned for short periods of time from player review/complaints because they pwn people in CoD4, no mods or cheats. One got banned for a week because he was murdering people with the RPG, how f'd up is that? But, short answer, you can get banned, but only through complaints from other players.


from op:

Made a mistake!

On step 13 I say that the positive lead of the 1uF capacitor goes to A4. This is incorrect, it be3longs in A4, the negative lead goes to A4.

Installing the right trigger circuit board

NOTE: Trim each wire as necessary, to ensure you don’t end up with a “spaghetti mess” of wires in your controller, before soldering.

1. Solder the wire from B2 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the right pushbutton

2. Solder the wire from A6 of the circuit board to the other lead of the right pushbutton.

3. Solder the wire from E5 of the circuit board to one of the leads of the potentiometer.

4. Solder the wire from F6 of the circuit board to the remaining lead of the potentiometer. You should now have two wires soldered to the potentiometer, one on each side of it, not two wires on both sides. Remember, I instructed you to cut one of the two leads that are on one side of the potentiometer in Step 7 of Installing the pushbuttons and potentiometer. Your project should now loook something like this:


5. Solder the wire from A7 to the Power point of the controller’s circuit board.


6. Solder the wire from B3 to the Ground point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In my picture it is the point with the black wire soldered to it on the right hand side of the controller.


7. Solder the wire from B1 to the Trigger point of the right trigger of the controller’s circuit board. In the picture in step 6 above, it is the point with the green wire soldered to it on the right side of the controller’s circuit board, just below the black one mentioned in step 5. NOTE: If you are only doing the right trigger portion of this mod, you may now put your controller back together. If all went well, you now have a rapid fire button for your right trigger. Adjust the potentiometer as necessary while testing in game to find the setting you desire.



*THIS TUT IS FROM Rapid Fire Mod For Wireless Xbox 360 Controller - Scenyx Entertainment Community

i take no credit what-so-ever except for reuping the pix

[P I M P 3 D Tut]

Some of your images aren't showing up.
But, Thank you; I'm definatly going to use this

[chris213]

danggggggggggg when you say the hard way you mean it.
that looks so frickin complicated.
nice tut though

[ChiefJoboo]

now this is what i call a weekend project lol, i saw this on that site and knew it was gold for ours too! im in progress of doing it(long long time though) right now.

[IMD1]

Epic tutorial. I'm gonna attempt this when I get a chance for sure. Everyone rate Joboo's video high

[KranK]

This is the best way to do it. Actually more of a rapid fire mod.

[xXMockeyXx]

I like your RATM sig picture, Chief

And this tut is so whack, can't we just solder to a part of the LED with a new button? Well in that general area*

[Beezy 4 sheezy]

You know this is praticly the same speed as the rapid fire tut thats stickied.
Why couldn't you just use the ther tut..? They work the same.
If you were wanting to make a rapidfire controller the hardway and actually have more options for diffent games then you would use my tut.
But to me this is the same as the stickied tut.

[ChiefJoboo]

Quote: Originally Posted by Beezy 4 sheezy

You know this is praticly the same speed as the rapid fire tut thats stickied.
Why couldn't you just use the ther tut..? They work the same.
If you were wanting to make a rapidfire controller the hardway and actually have more options for diffent games then you would use my tut.
But to me this is the same as the stickied tut.

this one comes with a volume control: you can change the speed whenever you want

im getting a medium sized one so i can have it sticking out the end of my controller so i can change my speeeeeed

[Beezy 4 sheezy]

wait how do you change the speed? I dont see a volume control thing any here at all.
This is really interesting.. thanks.
but uhh would you need to edit the code to add a volume controle to allow it to change modes.?
I have no idea how thse chips work.

[ChiefJoboo]

Quote: Originally Posted by Beezy 4 sheezy

wait how do you change the speed? I dont see a volume control thing any here at all.
This is really interesting.. thanks.
but uhh would you need to edit the code to add a volume controle to allow it to change modes.?
I have no idea how thse chips work.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062359

im going to put this in right before the button, it'll probally work but not sure yet.

100K Dual-Ganged Stereo Volume Control

[combatburt]

This tut has been posted before.

[Mikespartan114]

is there any way of making tlc555 timer a sleeper mod, instead of the push buton, i made this one already and my friend wants a sleeper

[jdcx95]

Quote: Originally Posted by Mikespartan114

is there any way of making tlc555 timer a sleeper mod, instead of the push buton, i made this one already and my friend wants a sleeper

Yes there is and its a bit easier than this one. Here you go: 555 Timer Rapid Fire Mod

[mr squishy]

NOTE: any1 trying this... dont be an idiot like me and use tin snips to trim your board, it makes for a lot of wasted time

[HaLO36o OP]

man u did yours mad weird... all i did was take a button and two wires, connect one wire to the 1st player LED and the second to the middle pin near right joy stick...